Converting to LEDs

[TomyD]

Hi all,
I've been looking at the diferent LEDs from LEDLight.com. I'd like to convert most of the external lighting to LED. I've also read that by doing so, it affect other system like the cruise contol. To correct that, a load resistor has to be installed.

Does anybody know the required value of the resistor(s)? And where does it need to be installed?

I'm looking for the brake/tail , back-up lights and amber turning signals.


Thanks

[Tang]

Hi all,
I've been looking at the diferent LEDs from LEDLight.com. I'd like to convert most of the external lighting to LED. I've also read that by doing so, it affect other system like the cruise contol. To correct that, a load resistor has to be installed.

Does anybody know the required value of the resistor(s)? And where does it need to be installed?

I'm looking for the brake/tail , back-up lights and amber turning signals.


Thanks

Hi TomyD,
Like you, I had an interest in LED swaps. Unlike you, I opted for the interior swap. What I'm about to write is a recommendation, borderline-warning, but please read.

First off, you need a resistor so that the car will read 12v. You will avoid hyperflash as a result.

Now, I'm going to recommend you NOT do exterior LEDs, and here is why:
1. Brightness of LEDs. LED bulbs are not the same as LED bulb circuits, which most vehicles that come out of the factory with LEDs usually have (one exception, Taurus X and Lexus R330-whatever it's called, but they used a 5W LED bulb that produced ridiculous lumens). LED bulbs unfortunately do not have the same brightness as halogen bulbs. LED headlights for vehicles where people actually go out and make them run nearly $350 a piece (at least what I've seen). Custom, LED bulb circuit taillights run much higher than the standard taillight assembly... usually, when made in masses. A guy on here was talking about potentially getting some LED taillights made, but he has kinda disappeared since (much to my disappointment because that was something I was extremely interested in).
2. The inconvenience of hyperflash. You're gonna need to install dependable resistors everywhere.
3. Interference with other systems. Doing a complete interior LED swap will render a remote start system useless. I think a guy on EC ran into that situation and opted to keep remote start.
4. Availability and quality of bulbs. Someone on here replaced the LED bulb for the cargo light and a few days later, the housing melted. It's an old bulb - the same one used in 2001 Escapes - and only Ford knows why they didn't bother changing it.

My friend tried to do an LED bulb swap in his Subaru GT but realized how dim the bulbs are during 'real' use... his terms were 'ridiculously unsafe' for the brake lights. He left his reverse lights in because they do look really cool and it was an expensive 64-bulb set that probably have 50% of the brightness of halogens, but were much better than the 12-LED bulb he picked up before.

If you're opting for appearance, the only two exterior bulbs I can recommend replacing for now are the sidemarkers in the headlamps and the reverse bulbs in the taillights (but you suffer reduced visability when backing-up).

Hope this helps.

[TomyD]

Thanks Tang.

[Tang]

Update on LED brake lights... I'm trying to talk to a guy from Ranger Forums who did a L1224R conversion with his brake lights. That would be the best LED conversion project for brake lights. I'll keep you posted if interested.

[jpark]

I'm looking into this, too. And I'd love to find out if Osram also makes an amber version of this lamp. I haven't found one so far...

[Tang]

I'm looking into this, too. And I'd love to find out if Osram also makes an amber version of this lamp. I haven't found one so far...

Somewhere on the Ranger Forum, there was a link to a Sylvania PR article about how there is a red, amber, and white version of the LED. They even displayed it in a tail light but for all we know that could have been photoshopped. LED bulbs in the front for turn signals would be a hard choice over my current blue-amber Sylvanias.

[jpark]

The TT/Optek amber LEDs I've been using for various projects are the coolest shade of orange-yellow that I've ever seen. And Osram makes LEDs in the same radiation range.

There's only one thing that I haven't seen about the L1224Rs (and L1230Rs): what are their wattage ratings for full brightness? I don't care about the parking/tail connection, which is actually connected to partial-duty-cycle oscillator. If the wattage is over around 20-25W, you won't even need to use a load resistor to prevent fast flashing.

[Tang]

It looks like other people have needed to add something, but what it is I don't know. Are those facts things you're supposed to know??

[truck490]

I switched my backup lights and license plate lights to LEDs I bought off eBay. The backups are brighter than the factory ones, but they have a bluish tint that takes time to get use to. The license plate lights are ridiculous how bright they are! Big improvement! As far as problems none so far had this set up for 4 months

[Tang]

What kind of reverse LEDs did you get?