This is a install guide for running 12v from the battery into the cab, which is step 1 of a multi-faceted project for the Escape. This process is fairly easy if you don't mind a little DIY. I'm using 4 gauge wire, which is more thick than I needed but I'll never have to worry about power draw.
Contents of 4 ga. wiring kit: Red 17' 4 ga. wire, Blk 3' 4 ga. wire, 17' blue RCA, 17' blue remote wire, 17' speaker wire, 6' black split loom, wire connectors, and a fused wire holder.
Firewall grommet from inside the engine compartment
Battery terminal
Installation of wire through existing grommet from engine compartment. I made 2 cuts in the shape of an "X" to allow passage of the wire and have it still be sealed. It was easy to locate wire at the inside of the cab, so I fed the entire length from the engine compartment to the inside.
Wire through existing grommet from under the dash.
-Use CAUTION when connecting and disconnecting circuits in your car. Dead shorts can be very hazardous to metal lines as well as the battery. :lightning:
At this point I disconnected the battery terminal form the battery and temporarily protected it from contacting the circuit again with duct tape. Using linesman pliers I cut about 2' from the end, and use it to create a pigtail that will connect the battery to the fuse holder.. One end has a ring terminal that I crimped on, and the other end has one side of the fuse holder. When terminating ends on wires, make sure you have any necessary grommets, caps and fittings on the wire before, so you don't have to do the work twice.
A little modification to the existing Escape battery ring terminal by bending up tabs allowed me to pull out the bolt (the nut is soldered to the ring terminal on the other side) and connect in the gold ring terminal. I had to grind down the gold ring a bit on each side to fit into the battery terminal.
Ring terminal fully assembled with additional 12v. I re-installed the battery terminal cover as it was when I removed it.
Fuse holder assembly. I connected the other end of the fuse holder to the wire leading into the car. Note that the fuse is not installed, as this circuit would be otherwise LIVE. After I took this picture I placed on the black split-loom that was included. It will add additional protection to the wire casing inside the engine compartment.
Now to the inside of the Escape -
I removed the bottom molding and fed the wire down through the far left side, and fed it along the bottom channel.
Without removing the molding between the front and rear doors, I fed it through. I removed the rear floor molding and secured the cable the same way. I was able to feed the wire up through the rear panel and come out in a floor channel to the rear of the car.
Before a circuit can be completed, ground will need to be wired in as well, and of course the fuse will need to be installed.
I am going to terminate the 4 ga. wire into a distribution block and run 8 ga. out to my amp for a 12" sub and run other power out to a power inverter, 12v hitch power for accessory lighting, etc.
Contents of 4 ga. wiring kit: Red 17' 4 ga. wire, Blk 3' 4 ga. wire, 17' blue RCA, 17' blue remote wire, 17' speaker wire, 6' black split loom, wire connectors, and a fused wire holder.
Firewall grommet from inside the engine compartment
Battery terminal
Installation of wire through existing grommet from engine compartment. I made 2 cuts in the shape of an "X" to allow passage of the wire and have it still be sealed. It was easy to locate wire at the inside of the cab, so I fed the entire length from the engine compartment to the inside.
Wire through existing grommet from under the dash.
-Use CAUTION when connecting and disconnecting circuits in your car. Dead shorts can be very hazardous to metal lines as well as the battery. :lightning:
At this point I disconnected the battery terminal form the battery and temporarily protected it from contacting the circuit again with duct tape. Using linesman pliers I cut about 2' from the end, and use it to create a pigtail that will connect the battery to the fuse holder.. One end has a ring terminal that I crimped on, and the other end has one side of the fuse holder. When terminating ends on wires, make sure you have any necessary grommets, caps and fittings on the wire before, so you don't have to do the work twice.
A little modification to the existing Escape battery ring terminal by bending up tabs allowed me to pull out the bolt (the nut is soldered to the ring terminal on the other side) and connect in the gold ring terminal. I had to grind down the gold ring a bit on each side to fit into the battery terminal.
Ring terminal fully assembled with additional 12v. I re-installed the battery terminal cover as it was when I removed it.
Fuse holder assembly. I connected the other end of the fuse holder to the wire leading into the car. Note that the fuse is not installed, as this circuit would be otherwise LIVE. After I took this picture I placed on the black split-loom that was included. It will add additional protection to the wire casing inside the engine compartment.
Now to the inside of the Escape -
I removed the bottom molding and fed the wire down through the far left side, and fed it along the bottom channel.
Without removing the molding between the front and rear doors, I fed it through. I removed the rear floor molding and secured the cable the same way. I was able to feed the wire up through the rear panel and come out in a floor channel to the rear of the car.
Before a circuit can be completed, ground will need to be wired in as well, and of course the fuse will need to be installed.
I am going to terminate the 4 ga. wire into a distribution block and run 8 ga. out to my amp for a 12" sub and run other power out to a power inverter, 12v hitch power for accessory lighting, etc.