I did these schematics in Visio several years ago for the folks on the Ford Ranger forum. Seeing that it is no different for an escape, I figured I would post these for people here to reference as well.
This how-to has wiring diagrams for three different ways to control auxiliary lighting devices. Typically this fog lights, driving lights, off-road lights, or back-up lights. The concept can be applied to anything.
General Wiring Information & Connectors
Note the fuses and wire gauges, which is one of the most important things on all these diagrams. People who ignore the required fuses or wire gauges end up with smoke and fire. Fuses should always be within 1 foot of the source (battery, other wire, etc).
Connecting two or more wires together
Connecting two wires together should be done with butt connectors, and sealed up with some dielectric silicone. Or you can solder and heat shrink if you have that equipment. Do not ever use household wiring type wire nuts to twist wires together. Do not twist wires together and wrap in tape. Those little scotch-lock connectors with the blade that clamps onto the wire are "ok" for inside, but should never be used outside or under the hood. I don't like them, but sometimes there isn't enough slack to cut and splice and you're stuck.
Butt Connectors
ScotchLok
Connection to relays
Connections to the relays should always be with insulated female spade connectors. Or a plug designed for the relay which some kits include. Never wrap the wire around it or use uninsulated connectors.
Insulated female spade connectors
Wiring Diagrams
#1: Controlling lights with only a switch on the dash
The lights are turned on and off only by a simple switch in the cab. This is the most common. I recommend getting power for the switch from a circuit that is only on when the ignition is on. That way the lights will never be left on while the engine is shut off killing your battery. The wiring for the switch can be very small gauge, as low as 22 even. 18 is pretty common and will obviously be more than fine. If your switch is lighted, you will have a ground to connect to it as well, not pictured.
#2: Controlling the lights with an existing circuit such as high beams or reverse lights.
This will slave your new lights to the existing lights. I do this all the time with my off-road lights so they come on and off with the high beams. That way I don't have to push buttons to turn them on and off. This is also what you would do with reverse lights.
#3: Controlling the lights with both a switch and an existing circuit (on-off-automatic)
This is a combination of both. With a SPDT (single pole double throw) center-off switch, you can have both worlds. With the switch in position one, the power flows like diagram #1. With the switch in position two, the power flows like diagram #2. With the switch in the middle, the lights are off.
This how-to has wiring diagrams for three different ways to control auxiliary lighting devices. Typically this fog lights, driving lights, off-road lights, or back-up lights. The concept can be applied to anything.
General Wiring Information & Connectors
Note the fuses and wire gauges, which is one of the most important things on all these diagrams. People who ignore the required fuses or wire gauges end up with smoke and fire. Fuses should always be within 1 foot of the source (battery, other wire, etc).
Connecting two or more wires together
Connecting two wires together should be done with butt connectors, and sealed up with some dielectric silicone. Or you can solder and heat shrink if you have that equipment. Do not ever use household wiring type wire nuts to twist wires together. Do not twist wires together and wrap in tape. Those little scotch-lock connectors with the blade that clamps onto the wire are "ok" for inside, but should never be used outside or under the hood. I don't like them, but sometimes there isn't enough slack to cut and splice and you're stuck.
Butt Connectors
ScotchLok
Connection to relays
Connections to the relays should always be with insulated female spade connectors. Or a plug designed for the relay which some kits include. Never wrap the wire around it or use uninsulated connectors.
Insulated female spade connectors
Wiring Diagrams
#1: Controlling lights with only a switch on the dash
The lights are turned on and off only by a simple switch in the cab. This is the most common. I recommend getting power for the switch from a circuit that is only on when the ignition is on. That way the lights will never be left on while the engine is shut off killing your battery. The wiring for the switch can be very small gauge, as low as 22 even. 18 is pretty common and will obviously be more than fine. If your switch is lighted, you will have a ground to connect to it as well, not pictured.
#2: Controlling the lights with an existing circuit such as high beams or reverse lights.
This will slave your new lights to the existing lights. I do this all the time with my off-road lights so they come on and off with the high beams. That way I don't have to push buttons to turn them on and off. This is also what you would do with reverse lights.
#3: Controlling the lights with both a switch and an existing circuit (on-off-automatic)
This is a combination of both. With a SPDT (single pole double throw) center-off switch, you can have both worlds. With the switch in position one, the power flows like diagram #1. With the switch in position two, the power flows like diagram #2. With the switch in the middle, the lights are off.