I have a 2003 escape and it started knocking and at low RPM the oil pressure light comes on. I know it is a serious engine problem, has anyone experianced this before and exactly what was the damage? I did a compression test and #2 cylinder was lower than the rest, i put some oil in the cylinder and it brought the compression back up. I talked to my buddy who is a mechanic and he thinks it is aconnecting rod bearing. any other ideas? I am just trying to decide if it is worth fixing or if I will sell it for parts as is.
03 escape knocking and low oil press at low rmp
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Which engine are we talking about?
When the #2 cylinder was checked was the spark plug oiled?
Where there any other symptoms found? Like frothy bubbles in the coolant reservoir?Blue smoke coming off the exhaust pipe while driving?
Depending on the answers it may be a major engine overhaul or a minor one involving changing of the piston rings.
If a rod or its bearing is gone you should be able to hear the engine working at a different sound than normal.Kind of harsher and with the car vibrating even at low revs.
Please keep us informed.
When the #2 cylinder was checked was the spark plug oiled?
Where there any other symptoms found? Like frothy bubbles in the coolant reservoir?Blue smoke coming off the exhaust pipe while driving?
Depending on the answers it may be a major engine overhaul or a minor one involving changing of the piston rings.
If a rod or its bearing is gone you should be able to hear the engine working at a different sound than normal.Kind of harsher and with the car vibrating even at low revs.
Please keep us informed.
it is the 3.0 engine, when i checked compression I did it dry first then when #2 was low i put oil in the cylinder and it brought the compression up. the knocking is very loud on start up for a few seconds then it goes away completly until the engine gets warm (approx 3-4 mins) then it starts all the time again. And i have not driven it since this has happened, just into my garage to do the compression tests. anybody have any ideas on repair costs if it were a rod bearing? I may just end up trading it in with the cash for clunkers program
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Minimum cost should be around $1000 here in Europe.The engine has to come off, so think of the labour costs and the gaskets involved besides the con rod and its bearing.A more realistic figure would be closer to the $1500 mark and only if no other damage is done.
Usually when a catastrophic occurence like this happens there is some other damage which cannot be estimated untill the engine comes off and dismantled.
In cases like these the cheapest thing to do is find a used engine and do the swap.
Usually when a catastrophic occurence like this happens there is some other damage which cannot be estimated untill the engine comes off and dismantled.
In cases like these the cheapest thing to do is find a used engine and do the swap.
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Agree with dropping the pan. See what's in it. Low compression on #2, I would tend to think the rings are going (if not gone already). I had a similar issue with another engine. The piston skirt cracked and pieces of it and parts of the rings were in the oil pan.
Good luck.
Good luck.
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Very true.But not having an immediate access to the car symptoms or the driver, I am very hesitant to suggest something like this.Surfscape said:
Also, have you calculated the beer and sandwiches cost for sustainning an adult helper through this procedure in cold weather?
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Compression came right up when oil was poured in the piston.So, more or less the rings are holding, somehow.Otherwise the oil would sip through to the cranckcase and there would not be any increase in the compression.I think our friend has a con rod issue to deal with.It could be just the bearing or the rod itself which has been bent.Four_Eyes said:
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I know I'm late to this, but has the OP considered this could be a cracked exhaust manifold?
When cold, the crack will be larger, so the pieces will 'clack' together, and as it warms up the metal expands, and the clacking stops. Had this before on a 1985 buick Skyhawk.
When cold, the crack will be larger, so the pieces will 'clack' together, and as it warms up the metal expands, and the clacking stops. Had this before on a 1985 buick Skyhawk.
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If it sounds like a 3 cylinder John Deere tractor, then it is a cracked manifold. (voice of experience)greystone said:
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