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My 05 3.0L v6 ac started cutting in and out. I had it checked, they topped up the 134a and added dye to check for leaks. It had no leaks so they took it on a test drive, it still would cut in and out. They told me that my compressor was probably weak and should be replace, which was believable since my escape has over 215k miles. That shops wanted more than I could afford. I talked to a buddy of mine who does residential hvac work and decided that we would get a new compressor and put it in ourselves. Ordered one that came with the compressor, condenser, accumulator and orifice tube. Put all that in, put the system under vacuum for over an hour while we ate, he added the 134a using weight to get it right. Checking the low and high pressure and we see that the low side is a touch off 55, and the high is a kind of fluttering between 170 and 190. My buddy says that the high side is low, the shop temp was around 95F. The air coming out of the vents was 42F, so it was blowing cold. He added a touch more 134a to see if the high side would come up a bit more, but it didn't. We idled it for around a half hour to see how it ran, it stayed on and blew cold the whole time. He told me to run it for a couple of days and then bring it back. I did and the ac works great while idling. I drive it and the ac will start blowing warm. My buddy rechecked the pressure in low and high sides, they read 55 for the low and 180 for the high with the temp being around 90F. He vacuumed the system back down and recharged the system with 134a that had dye in it, pressures read the same. No leaks found, and he doesn't really have time to figure out what is going on, he also only ever works on residential, not auto. I have no clue myself. I can idle my car for at least 2hrs with it blowing nothing but cold air, but a couple minutes of driving and it blows nothing but warm. The paper that came with the compressor and the sticker under the hood said 32oz 134a, and the chart that came with the it and what my friend looked up said that it should have low side of 50-55, which it is, and a high side of 270-300 at above 90F, which it just won't hit. We have checked now at 76F and up to 112F, it just doesn't break 190. Any thoughts?
 

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My suspicion would be that the replacement compressor isn't working very well or the system is overcharged. It's unable to create a large enough differential in pressures. Factory service manual says 30 oz of r134a.

BTW, what color was the orifice tube that was installed? Blue or red? Where are you at in the world/country?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My suspicion would be that the replacement compressor isn't working very well or the system is overcharged. It's unable to create a large enough differential in pressures. Factory service manual says 30 oz of r134a.

BTW, what color was the orifice tube that was installed? Blue or red? Where are you at in the world/country?
It is a brand new compressor, not a rebuild. The orifice tube looked orange with a white end to me, it was exactly the same as the old one, and I live in the central valley of California. Average summer temp 100F+ with the humidity rarely getting over 20%.



I had the local PepBoys hook it up to their AC machine, they vacuumed it down and recharged it because they thought it was overcharged as well. But said that what they vacuumed out was the same as they put back in. They also said that they couldn't get the high side pressure up, said they would have to charge me shop hours to figure out what was wrong, so I left. I am trying to find someone with a better diagnostic scan tool then mine or ford ids, to see what the pcm says the ac system is doing while I am driving. If I can't find one by Saturday I will probably pull the new compressor and take it to a local rebuilder shop and have them test it. Other then that I have been suggested to change the sensor on the accumulator and the one inline by the condenser, along with the ambient air temp sensor if it has one, they guy who suggested that didn't remember if my escape had one or not.
 

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The PCM doesn't monitor the A/C system parameters or any temperature or pressure sensors during operation. It only looks at the series switch circuit (low pressure cycling and high pressure cutout) to determine when A/C is requested. Then, when the PCM's programming allows it, the PCM energizes the clutch relay. Think of this a 1st generation of PCM control of the A/C system. Evaporator temperature sensors and pressure transducers came a few years later than your 05. You'll have to diagnose by gauges.

My suspicion, after thinking some more about it, is that either it's a weak compressor as previously suggested or there is excessive refrigerant either bypassing the orifice (o-ring failure, perhaps) or the hole in the replacement orifice is too large. I'm leaning very strongly towards the compressor being a dud. Scratch the over-charged idea, the pressures would behave differently.
 

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An additional factor was the amount of oil in the system, the amount removed when the old components were replaced, and the amount of oil(IF ANY) in the replacement compressor. A lack of oil could lead to loss of compressive ability in the compressor. Were there any notes as to oil added per replaced item or in the compressor from the factory?
Do you mind mentioning the compressor brand? One firm was known in past for refurbishing via spray cans and pressure washing.
One last thought, and I do not know if it is possible, if the FOT was installed backwards, it may not allow pressure to develop. It would obstruct, but the refrigerant would bypass the orifice, and just leak into the evaporator.
Have you watched the compressor clutch to determine if it is working constantly or is cycling? The pressures would vary as the compressor kicked on and off, or should anyway.
Was there any evidence of desiccant being spread through the removed parts? Was the evaporator flushed?
tom
 

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From your picture, you have the correct fixed office tube installed. Ford's IDS would not help with diagnostics. Your system is very basic. I was working on a 2018 Toyota Prius A/C systems yesterday. It has a heat pump for A/C. Needed the factory scanner for this one.

Either the fixed office tube was not installed incorrectly, not fully seated or backwards. Or most likely, the compressor is defective.
 
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