So my sisters 07 escape has been sitting for roughly 4 years.. today I decided to empty the tank so she could get it back up and running before Monday. Long story short.. I jumped the fuel pump relay terminals 86 and 87 on the engine compartment fuse block and I heard some sorta relay click. Now the car won't start, there's relays on the bcm clicking and I've taken them off and tested. It won't respond to obd 2 scanner at all it says no response. Everything works except the fuel pump and starter. What else could I start checking? I've been through every fuse and relay.. it won't crank, has multiple lights on on the dash..
Did your sister decided not to use it because it has a problem or was it working good?
You said, starter is working, but does the engine cranks? Battery OK?
It was working good and sat. It was trying to start and pumping out fuel. Just tried to do it in a way I wasn't gunna burn up the starter. Pulled the relay, jumped terminal 87 to 86 and it sparked and now nothing. It acts fine until you go to try to start it and it don't do nothing, lights work, radio, basically everything until you turn it all the way and nkthing.. I Def shorted something just trying to find where I can start .. my obd2 port won't even give a response to my old scan tool.
It started and ran for a couple sec just fine with what residual gas it had in it. When I whent to jump the fuel relay I jumped the wrong terminals and it short circuited something. Now I just got some clicking from 2 relay on the bcm.
The injectors could possibly gummed up for that long period of no use. Other members will chime in soon, but I'd look for the injectors first if they're OK.
I know it's not them for sure. I'm having a no crank issue. Starter, pump, nothing works. Lights on the dash.. engine light, battery light, od off light witch I can't turn back on hitting the button and a seat belt light. If it helps I'm almost leaning towards a new bcm and having ford re marry the two, pcm and bcm. When I tried to jump the relay on the engine fuse block terminals. I jumped the wrong two it sparked and now it won't crank. I even tested the 4 pins of the obd2 port to see if I can see the data on the car since that don't work either. I Have 2.5 volts for signal on pin 4 and 6, good ground on pin number 14, and then pin 16 has 12.5 v. I hope someone else will end up helping. I seen a post on just ask someone had the exact same issue when they tried to empty the tank cause there daughter put in diesel fuel. But he never said how he fixed it..
It might be checking all the fuses would indicate one that had deprived the ECM of power. The ECM power is relay operated, checking that relay would be indicated. I do not have the relay numbers memorized, so they mean nothing. If you applied power to the ECM control pin, it may have done something to the ECM, putting voltage on a relay control pin which generally are supplying a ground to the relay control winding. If you went to the control voltage, it should have done nothing. To the pump should have run the pump. Not many choices left, eh?
Anyway, I would be searching the PDB under hood for cooked fuses or relays.
Given the problem is a nonresponsive ECM, worrying about the fuel pump driver module is a future concern. A last thought is that the control wire that was probed with voltage could have become damaged carrying current directly to ground, lotta amps. Might want to follow that wire, and/or check its continuity and its freedom from grounding due to damaged insulation(melt).
tom
It might be checking all the fuses would indicate one that had deprived the ECM of power. The ECM power is relay operated, checking that relay would be indicated. I do not have the relay numbers memorized, so they mean nothing. If you applied power to the ECM control pin, it may have done something to the ECM, putting voltage on a relay control pin which generally are supplying a ground to the relay control winding. If you went to the control voltage, it should have done nothing. To the pump should have run the pump. Not many choices left, eh?
Anyway, I would be searching the PDB under hood for cooked fuses or relays.
Given the problem is a nonresponsive ECM, worrying about the fuel pump driver module is a future concern. A last thought is that the control wire that was probed with voltage could have become damaged carrying current directly to ground, lotta amps. Might want to follow that wire, and/or check its continuity and its freedom from grounding due to damaged insulation(melt).
tom
I've been through every single fuse and relay on it, applying 12 v to them and making sure they closed and ohmed out. Also heard all of them click closed before I checked continuity in them. Maybe there's one I havnt found? I know you can jump the pins on one side being signal does nothing like you said, the other two jump start the pump, I crosss we those two and send a shock to something. Assuming the pcm. And the fuel pump driver under the middle console passenger side, is what has the clicking relays on it when I turn the key to start and back to ignitin on. I'll try to back probe that wire and check for continuity to see if maybe it burned out under the box itself. Idk what else to really check?
I posted some diagrams of the wiring for the fuel pump. Which 2 pins were jumped, 1, 2, 3 or 4? How did you test the fuses? Are you using a multimeter or power probe? I'll post the PCM diagram later today with connector view. Can you scan for codes? Can you run KOEO on-demand self test?
I'm off to the dog park, and I'll be back in a few hours. For your post, it appears you know what you're doing. Let me know if you need any other diagrams.
here is where I fucked up. Jumped those two. I will check relays again. That's a completely different way but I still will.. and I can't scan for obd cause it somehow fried that as well.. I get power ground and signal from it just don't work..
Thank you bud, have fun!
If you remove the fuel pump relay, there will be numbers printed on the relay mounting area of the plastic. 1-5. I think you blew the diode within the SJB or BJB. If the diode did indeed fail, no power will go to the relay magnet. The relay itself has a resistor built in. Open the SJB or BJB and check for a blown diode. If the SJB has failed, they are around 50-100 on ebay. Just match the numbers. The as-built can be loaded to the SJB using www.forscan.org
My best guess, you were asking the SJB or BJB to power the fuel pump. The SJB can only supply enough amps to work the relay. You may have overloaded it. The fuel pump module provides the amps to work the fuel pump.
Where did you jump the fuel pump, under hood (BJB) or passenger area (SJB)? Ford's diagrams are weak for these years.
If you remove the fuel pump relay, there will be numbers printed on the relay mounting area of the plastic. 1-5. I think you blew the diode within the SJB or BJB. If the diode did indeed fail, no power will go to the relay magnet. The relay itself has a resistor built in. Open the SJB or BJB and check for a blown diode. If the SJB has failed, they are around 50-100 on ebay. Just match the numbers. The as-built can be loaded to the SJB using www.forscan.org
My best guess, you were asking the SJB or BJB to power the fuel pump. The SJB can only supply enough amps to work the relay. You may have overloaded it. The fuel pump module provides the amps to work the fuel pump.
Where did you jump the fuel pump, under hood (BJB) or passenger area (SJB)? Ford's diagrams are weak for these years.
Are the diodes in the SJB and BJB the ones with two wires going into what looks about and inch long heat shrink? I had the BJB open today and noticed 2 or 3 of those in there.
I jumped it under the hood in my previous pics where I circled in red. Believe it's post 1 and 3 I jumped
The relay you removed should be under the hood, I asked, because the picture diagrams (fuse, relay) are weak for this period. But the wiring diagrams, are accurate. Was it a mini relay 5 pin or a square 4-5 pin removed?
The diode is in the SJB. The 2 amp fuse should have blown trying to power the fuel pump (8-10 amps), or the diode failed before the fuse failed, unlikely.
Sorry for such a late reply.. it was a square 4 pin. I'll send pics. I'm still trying to find the diode in the SJB to test. Can you point me in the rite direction? Is that the one all the way at the bottom of the SJB in the engine bay? And I've checked all fuses as well. I will go back out and re check. I'll even try replacing the 2 amp.
You figured it out man. The 2 qmp fuse was gone.im back in business trying to get the gas out. Anyway i can jump the relay safely without blowing that fuse again?
And thank you for the update. By asking, you may have helped others in a similar situation. Don't forget to close your post with a solved. Good luck with your adventures, and you're a good man helping your sister.
I'm not quite sure how to change it from problem to solved. Thank you for that, it means more then you know! She has another vehicle but its a 2013 kia optima and it has the notoriously bad engine. So it's at a dealer along with 52 other blown kias there getting to.
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