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Hi everyone I am starting this thread to track the progress on my system upgrade for the 09 Escape with factory navigation. I posted this on the 03 Escape upgrade thread but I figured I would break it out to its own thread.
Here is the system I am looking at:
Here is his reply:
My main objective is to have clean bass, clean sound, but also loud when I want it to be loud. Main objective 2 is to keep all of the factory function of the system. No aftermarket HU, everything works just like it would stock.
Sound Deadening: I did miss this. I have ordered a bulk pack of dynamat xtreme from amazon for $140. Whatever I end up getting they are going to install the dynamat while they are installing the rest. Doors, lift gate, rear quarter panels. I hope 1 pack is enough..
For the PCH8:
This is what the shop recommended and they say they have used it frequently and with great results. I was/am wary of this, because I have researched RF's 3sixty.2 and Alpine's PHE-H650 and from what I can tell the PCH8 only lets you flatten the response curve and normalize it for the amps (and you have to tune it with your own RTA and tuning CD according to the owners manual). But, after looking at the options, I realized 1 major thing: both the 3sixty.2 and the H650, you cannot use the factory volume dial anymore, which is a huge problem for me. With the H650, you have to use a remote (seriously?), which can get lost, fall between the seats, etc.. and I am not hunting for a remote to turn the volume up and down every time. The 3sixty.2 you use a separately installed dial to adjust the volume and bass, from what I can tell. Better, but still sucks because then you can't use the steering wheel controls. If I am wrong here, let me know.
Cost is also a factor here, PCH8 (retail) is $199. The other 2 are north of 300 to close to 600. Right now I am just hoping to get a clean signal to the amps. Later (stage 2), I am assuming I can add a xover or similar between the PCH8 and amp. At least I think I can?
PDX-5: My intent is to have this and the PCH8 installed in the area where the stock sub is now. Once you remove it, there looks to be enough room. My main selling point with the PDX is size v power. 75x4 and 300x1 is perfect for what kind of sound I am looking for, punch but not over the top. Also, all the certificates I have seen online are showing 100+x4 and 370+x1, and I do not expect to have the gains to high on this amp, so hopefully I can miss out on some of the noise fourthmeal mentioned? JL 900/5 is also worth a look but I don't want to wait for it, and it seems they are pushing it back, either way it is not available right now.
JL stealthbox: Pricey. $499 is all you can get it for, no internet specials on this one. But here are my other options: Thunderform with woeful sub which would have to be replaced, making the cost more expensive. Also, it is bigger and takes up more space (albeit with a 12 instead of 10). Also, I have heard the plastic sucks vs glass, but this is hearsay and others might disagree. Maybe replace the current paper 8 with a JL 8? I think the PDX amp is overpowered for an 8, and I am looking for good to great bass (again, doesn't have to be over the top). Either way I don't like this idea. Putting a box in the cargo area is also not an option for me.
This leaves me with JL stealthbox, or custom build by install shop. To be honest, I trust JL subs and a custom build with a 12w1 or 12w3 12 will take up more room on the side, and likely cost more than $500. I absolutely love the complete stealth fourthmeal did (#2), but again I am not going to do the work, and I am thinking that kind of custom work will also cost more than $500.
I did hear one person tell me the 10w1's "f'ing slam".. has anybody had any experience with these? I think I would prefer a 10w3, but mounting depth is almost 1.5 inches deeper and thus becomes a problem on the side well.
Speakers:
The first thing I looked at was JL c5's. Very nice, also very expensive at $550/pair. I am just not wanting to drop $1100 for speakers alone. So the alpine type R's are reasonable at $250 fronts and $150 rears, and I have really heard a lot of good things about the type r's in general.
I think here I have the option to go active cross in the front and let the rears just use stock HU juice, but I think I will stick with passive for now. This seems like an easy option to change down the road.
Cost: Yes I think $2400 is high. But, I only want to buy from authorized retailers. For JL, that is Crutchfield and their brick-and-morter selected dealers. For Alpine, there are a handful of online authorized retailers, most of which charge full msrp ($599 amp, $249 fronts, $149 rears). I did find that Pacific stereo (alpine authorized) had the amp for $475, fronts for $200, rears for $125. A savings of $175 over msrp retail. But, shipping adds about 65 so lets say $110 savings. I feel like, for $110, it is worth it to buy local. If something breaks, I take it back to them. They deal with warranty, they take the old one out, put the new one in, no charge, etc. If I buy from pacific stereo, I have to deal with warranty.. ship the old one back, pay to have it taken out, then have the new one back in.. etc. Basically, I am ok with paying a little more for that peace of mind, and that relationship with the local independent shop.
The cost breakdown is $199 PCH8, $599 PDX5, $249 Fronts, $149 Rears, $499 stealthbox. The rest is install and wiring costs.
Anybody want to throw out any suggestions based on my criteria? Clean, stealth, quality, factory unharmed, not installed by me
(I did that at least 4 times and I am done, time to let somebody else take over 
I plan to do this in the next week or so, either way I will make sure they let me come up there and take pictures during the install so I can post!
Here is the system I am looking at:
I also sent a PM to fourthmeal as he seems to be the resident expert on these things. Thanks fourthmeal btw, there is some excellent reading on these forums.I am talking with a local shop in Kennesaw GA that has done a lot of custom work and seems to be pretty solid called Area-41.
Here is what I am looking at getting done:
Peripheral PCH8 processor
Alpine PDX-5
Alpine SPR-17S Front
Alpine SPR-57C Rear
JL Audio SB-F-ESCP/10w1v2 Stealthbox
I want to retain ALL of the factory functionality, including volume control from the HU. But the "audiophile" system is a joke.
I did my own install on my 2004 Mazda3 Hatch, but I am getting a bit older now and don't think I really have the patience to go through all of that again and I am also a little scared to take apart the new ride
So I am going to have this installed, and I am getting quoted somewhere near $2400 tax included.
Any thoughts good/bad/indifferent?
Here is his reply:
I wanted to go through these points and give my reasoning behind them for discussion or just to have it out there for anybody else looking for advice.Hey there,
The pricing is outrageously high, but otherwise it is a decent system. A few quick notes:
You are missing deadening. This IMO should be your foundation. Look at http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com for the right approach, and either purchase there or at Secondskin for the right products.
I advise to not run rear speakers at all. The stock speakers sound just fine for most ambient background listening, which is what they are for. Focusing more intently on a well designed front door can lead to a much more fulfilling sound stage for the driver and passenger.
Running components is definitely a good idea, but consider running them active for fine control, and to get rid of the pesky crossover box.
You are considering a "processor", but it doesn't really do anything except take in a signal and regurgitate it. If you are going to add a processor, put one in that will let you EQ, time align, and adjust your crossover points finely. That's money better spent, and the control you have will let you fine-tune the system until it is perfect.
The Alpine PDX5 is a decent amp with great power, but sadly many who use it find it to be noisy, and a little rough when pushed. I respect the PDX lineup and thought of them first myself, but after reading review after review among my DIYMA forum peers (and these guys know audio), I can't recommend one.
The JL Stealthbox is a fine option. Just keep in mind with an 09 you can easily make the whole system disappear under your factory cargo floor height. A false floor can hide the subs, the amps, and everything else, and there will be NO visual cues that it even exists. That stealthbox just isn't as stealthy! Probably costs a whole lot more, too.
My main objective is to have clean bass, clean sound, but also loud when I want it to be loud. Main objective 2 is to keep all of the factory function of the system. No aftermarket HU, everything works just like it would stock.
Sound Deadening: I did miss this. I have ordered a bulk pack of dynamat xtreme from amazon for $140. Whatever I end up getting they are going to install the dynamat while they are installing the rest. Doors, lift gate, rear quarter panels. I hope 1 pack is enough..
For the PCH8:
This is what the shop recommended and they say they have used it frequently and with great results. I was/am wary of this, because I have researched RF's 3sixty.2 and Alpine's PHE-H650 and from what I can tell the PCH8 only lets you flatten the response curve and normalize it for the amps (and you have to tune it with your own RTA and tuning CD according to the owners manual). But, after looking at the options, I realized 1 major thing: both the 3sixty.2 and the H650, you cannot use the factory volume dial anymore, which is a huge problem for me. With the H650, you have to use a remote (seriously?), which can get lost, fall between the seats, etc.. and I am not hunting for a remote to turn the volume up and down every time. The 3sixty.2 you use a separately installed dial to adjust the volume and bass, from what I can tell. Better, but still sucks because then you can't use the steering wheel controls. If I am wrong here, let me know.
Cost is also a factor here, PCH8 (retail) is $199. The other 2 are north of 300 to close to 600. Right now I am just hoping to get a clean signal to the amps. Later (stage 2), I am assuming I can add a xover or similar between the PCH8 and amp. At least I think I can?
PDX-5: My intent is to have this and the PCH8 installed in the area where the stock sub is now. Once you remove it, there looks to be enough room. My main selling point with the PDX is size v power. 75x4 and 300x1 is perfect for what kind of sound I am looking for, punch but not over the top. Also, all the certificates I have seen online are showing 100+x4 and 370+x1, and I do not expect to have the gains to high on this amp, so hopefully I can miss out on some of the noise fourthmeal mentioned? JL 900/5 is also worth a look but I don't want to wait for it, and it seems they are pushing it back, either way it is not available right now.
JL stealthbox: Pricey. $499 is all you can get it for, no internet specials on this one. But here are my other options: Thunderform with woeful sub which would have to be replaced, making the cost more expensive. Also, it is bigger and takes up more space (albeit with a 12 instead of 10). Also, I have heard the plastic sucks vs glass, but this is hearsay and others might disagree. Maybe replace the current paper 8 with a JL 8? I think the PDX amp is overpowered for an 8, and I am looking for good to great bass (again, doesn't have to be over the top). Either way I don't like this idea. Putting a box in the cargo area is also not an option for me.
This leaves me with JL stealthbox, or custom build by install shop. To be honest, I trust JL subs and a custom build with a 12w1 or 12w3 12 will take up more room on the side, and likely cost more than $500. I absolutely love the complete stealth fourthmeal did (#2), but again I am not going to do the work, and I am thinking that kind of custom work will also cost more than $500.
I did hear one person tell me the 10w1's "f'ing slam".. has anybody had any experience with these? I think I would prefer a 10w3, but mounting depth is almost 1.5 inches deeper and thus becomes a problem on the side well.
Speakers:
The first thing I looked at was JL c5's. Very nice, also very expensive at $550/pair. I am just not wanting to drop $1100 for speakers alone. So the alpine type R's are reasonable at $250 fronts and $150 rears, and I have really heard a lot of good things about the type r's in general.
I think here I have the option to go active cross in the front and let the rears just use stock HU juice, but I think I will stick with passive for now. This seems like an easy option to change down the road.
Cost: Yes I think $2400 is high. But, I only want to buy from authorized retailers. For JL, that is Crutchfield and their brick-and-morter selected dealers. For Alpine, there are a handful of online authorized retailers, most of which charge full msrp ($599 amp, $249 fronts, $149 rears). I did find that Pacific stereo (alpine authorized) had the amp for $475, fronts for $200, rears for $125. A savings of $175 over msrp retail. But, shipping adds about 65 so lets say $110 savings. I feel like, for $110, it is worth it to buy local. If something breaks, I take it back to them. They deal with warranty, they take the old one out, put the new one in, no charge, etc. If I buy from pacific stereo, I have to deal with warranty.. ship the old one back, pay to have it taken out, then have the new one back in.. etc. Basically, I am ok with paying a little more for that peace of mind, and that relationship with the local independent shop.
The cost breakdown is $199 PCH8, $599 PDX5, $249 Fronts, $149 Rears, $499 stealthbox. The rest is install and wiring costs.
Anybody want to throw out any suggestions based on my criteria? Clean, stealth, quality, factory unharmed, not installed by me
I plan to do this in the next week or so, either way I will make sure they let me come up there and take pictures during the install so I can post!