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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is a install guide for running 12v from the battery into the cab, which is step 1 of a multi-faceted project for the Escape. This process is fairly easy if you don't mind a little DIY. I'm using 4 gauge wire, which is more thick than I needed but I'll never have to worry about power draw.

Contents of 4 ga. wiring kit: Red 17' 4 ga. wire, Blk 3' 4 ga. wire, 17' blue RCA, 17' blue remote wire, 17' speaker wire, 6' black split loom, wire connectors, and a fused wire holder.


Firewall grommet from inside the engine compartment


Battery terminal


Installation of wire through existing grommet from engine compartment. I made 2 cuts in the shape of an "X" to allow passage of the wire and have it still be sealed. It was easy to locate wire at the inside of the cab, so I fed the entire length from the engine compartment to the inside.


Wire through existing grommet from under the dash.


-Use CAUTION when connecting and disconnecting circuits in your car. Dead shorts can be very hazardous to metal lines as well as the battery. :lightning:

At this point I disconnected the battery terminal form the battery and temporarily protected it from contacting the circuit again with duct tape. Using linesman pliers I cut about 2' from the end, and use it to create a pigtail that will connect the battery to the fuse holder.. One end has a ring terminal that I crimped on, and the other end has one side of the fuse holder. When terminating ends on wires, make sure you have any necessary grommets, caps and fittings on the wire before, so you don't have to do the work twice.


A little modification to the existing Escape battery ring terminal by bending up tabs allowed me to pull out the bolt (the nut is soldered to the ring terminal on the other side) and connect in the gold ring terminal. I had to grind down the gold ring a bit on each side to fit into the battery terminal.


Ring terminal fully assembled with additional 12v. I re-installed the battery terminal cover as it was when I removed it.


Fuse holder assembly. I connected the other end of the fuse holder to the wire leading into the car. Note that the fuse is not installed, as this circuit would be otherwise LIVE. After I took this picture I placed on the black split-loom that was included. It will add additional protection to the wire casing inside the engine compartment.


Now to the inside of the Escape -
I removed the bottom molding and fed the wire down through the far left side, and fed it along the bottom channel.


Without removing the molding between the front and rear doors, I fed it through. I removed the rear floor molding and secured the cable the same way. I was able to feed the wire up through the rear panel and come out in a floor channel to the rear of the car.


Before a circuit can be completed, ground will need to be wired in as well, and of course the fuse will need to be installed.

I am going to terminate the 4 ga. wire into a distribution block and run 8 ga. out to my amp for a 12" sub and run other power out to a power inverter, 12v hitch power for accessory lighting, etc.
 

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A very fastidious job you have done there SilverAthlon. :) That is sort of basically, how particular my radio technician was, when he wired up my ICOM uhf transceivers. He is a keen hi-fi enthusiast ,and your photos are actually the method he used on his own car. Slightly heavier guage wire, quality connections and a " Heavy Duty" capacitor. :)
 

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Very nice writeup bud! Exactly how I did mine. I actually ended up taking a uni bit and drilling through the foam inside the trap door and installed the amp and cap in the trap door....you can see that here:

 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys - I enjoyed posting it as much as I enjoyed doing it. Scott, I saw your original posting, and I thought that my configuration was different. I confirmed that when I looked last night, I don't have the nice "trap door" that you do. Under the carpet is a paperboard door and you can see what's under it. I have some emergency items in there, but I severely lack the storage space you have. It seems odd that we both have 2007 model years but such different "trunks", mine is a Limited and yours is a XLT. I find it hard to believe that they are so significantly different.... Anyone have thoughts?

 

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Nice and clean! I used a similar area in the firewall, but I had to drill two holes, because I ran 2 runs of 1/0 welding cable (1 negative, 1 positive), and it does not fit under the kick panels :( nice install! Did you find any problems with adding the 12v line to the stock 12v battery post? I had to get new posts because my wire was so heavy it bent the stock one off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thx midnight! 1/0 cable would be tough to pass through there i reckon. As you can see, I had to do a bit of custom work on the battery terminal... I had it disconnected and realized that I might need a new terminal, but at 3:00 AM my resources were extremely limited. I was able to "square" out the gold ring terminal to fit it on sone of the sides and it doesn't appear that it will move. Once I crimped the ring terminal on, I noticed some slack, so I tinned the end of the wire with solder and it hasn't moved since. I also thought about a negative run from the battery, but I think that frame termination for ground should be acceptable.
 

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very nice! Well if 4awg is more then you will need power wise, a chassis ground is more then enough, I have both runs because I run a class D 1500watts constant. And it was a tough fit, that's why I had to drill holes. But i really like your clean install. Compared to some hack jobs, it's nice to see you took your time, lol 3 am... thats pretty intense
 

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I agree! Very nice job! Now I have a power inverter as well that I want to run but am trying to figure out a way for me to run an extension cord to where I actually want it...you got any ideas if I hook the inverter up in the back where my amp/cap is?
 

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Nice job Silver!!

As an added FYI for others down the road, another means for getting a large power/ground cable to the rear is to run a flexible conduit (with needed cable within) along the underside of the rig. I did this on a pickup I had a few years back. Works rather well and saves the headache of removing the trim panels and such. Ran right along the frame and used a 90 deg elbow fitting to come into the rear cab.
 

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NoXcape can you provide pics bud?
 

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on my 04 there is dead space between the back of the center console and the firewall, ive always wanted to hard wire my power inverter there. ive just dont have the time to do any mods. you could place it there, and even if you wanted to you could put a distribution block under your dash to send power to the inverter so you don't have to drill or jam any wires anywhere else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
CnB - I like that idea a lot, I'll have to climb up in there and see what I can find, I'm not opposed to running a dedicated line again using 10 ga.

NoX - I've also contemplated running underneath, but here in MN we get salty roads for 6 months of the year, and as the wiring would likely survive if I greased/cased it, I don't like the idea of exposing the cable to those harsh elements.

Scott - I was thinking about it today, and I didn't mind the install in the back for a couple of reasons - one because it gets me a 12v power receptacle along with a 120v outlet. But after considering how much of my needs would be in the passenger seat, my initial thought is "who cares if there is a power cable that I run through the cab only when I want to use it... But I'm getting more and more turned onto the idea of having one up front and in back. I guess I'm going to mull it over here a bit....
 

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if you get a power inverter like mine where its easy to take apart and the 2 plugs are really just clipped into the case, you could easily cut the wires, and hard mount the plugs anywhere you wanted. theres a thread somewhere with pics of what i initially wanted to do to mine, but the replacement piece for the dash is way too much. or you could goto the scrap yard and see if you can get a 110V receptical with a cover like in the hybrids or in a Pontiac vibe. then cut a hole in your rear panel and mount it, it would look stock or you could even make it virtually impossible to see. if i had the time, money, and my back wasn't f***** up, i would have lots of little things like that done to mine.. Good Luck!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
CnB - Solid ideas, I am a hundred percent on board for a stock look both for wiring and appearance. Ican sympathize with the back problems, on top my own back probs, I had reconstructive surgery on my right ankle in Sept., and I go in for my left side on Friday. 1 month on crutches = no fun, but at least I can drive this time.

When I did the right side, I made sure to take a few rides on the cycle, as the right foot is the "least" important out of all 4 extremities. Now I wouldn't drive the cycle anyways, but it's not an option. At least I can drive the Escape.
 

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How much room is there behind the rear panels? Would it make sense to mount it against a rear quarter behind the plastic then run the wires wherever you want them? I myself have 2 outlets and a USB plug coming out of my inverter. To me, I can do 1 plug in the rear coming through the plastic, one plug hiding undernead the passenger seat coming out of the carpet with the USB cord.
 

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Scoot, sorry, I don't think I have any. I no longer own that rig. I will see if I have something, but doubt it. It's real neat though. Buy a length of liquidtight flexible non-metallic conduit from Home depot or others. Start routing from engine bay and work back. Use the straps meant for the conduit with some self tapping screws and whoila! If I end up needed more power in the rear with this rig I'm sure to do it again, and will take pics then.
 

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i kno on my escape i ran the 4 ga from the primary batt to the rear batt and than more 4 ga from the rear batt to the 2 amps.. I had a hard time gettin this under the trim panels without them popping back out clicking in akward but i finally got it. Now that I will be running 2 spare batts and a bigger amp i had to get some 0 ga and this stuff is THICK.. im thinkin i am either going to need to gut the interior and run it strait under the carpet under the seats.. What is your alls input? Thanks
 
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