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Nigel asked me to post pictures of the power window and lock switches used in the 2001-2007 Escapes, and in some other years in markets outside North America and Korea.
If your power window and lock switches look like these, and you'd like to change the lighting color to something different, and something brighter, read on. These switches are from Scottie's 2007 Escape, which I converted when I also converted his gauges:
Here's the side view of the front-door switches:
Here's the side view of one of the rear-door switches:
Here are the front-door switch modules after removing their bezels:
Here's one of the rear-door switch modules after removing the bezel:
I worked on the driver-side switch module first, since it was the most difficult to disassemble. Each switch rocker needs to be popped off of the switch before the module cover can be removed. I did this by applying pressure to one side of the switch rocker and pushing up. Luckily, I didn't break any of the four tabs that secure each rocker.
Here's the circuit board inside the driver-side switch module with the stock green LEDs:
Here are the LEDs I used for this conversion. I usually use TT/Optek flangeless 3mm LEDs ( http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... 65-1173-ND ), but Digi-Key was out of stock when I needed them. So I went to plan B: LiteOn dual-flange blue LEDs ( http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... 60-1600-ND ):
I didn't have a chance to take a picture of the back of this board, but the express-down add-on board needs to be partially removed to gain access to the solder pads for some of the LEDs. The leads on each new LED need to be bent exactly like the leads on the LED it replaces. Here's how the board looked after I installed the new blue LEDs:
That's it for the driver-side module. For the remaining modules (one power lock module for the front passenger, and three power window modules for the front passenger and two rear passengers), here's one of those modules after I disassembled it. Again, the rockers need to be popped off of the switch to remove the module cover.
Here's the circuit board and the stock green LEDs (and the grease used on the rocker assembly):
I changed the 560-ohm resistor on each of these modules to a 1,200-ohm resistor, which you should do if you're using blue, white, aqua, purple, or newer green (525nm) LEDs (3 volts or higher). If you're using red, orange, amber, or older green (565nm) LEDs, you can keep the stock resistor.
Here's the stock lighting, using a 12V power pack:
Even after using a higher resistor, the same power, and the same exposure level, here are the new blue LEDs:
Finally:
Please PM me if you need to find LEDs. There are thousands of different LEDs and lots of colors that will work with these switches, but there are only a few that are really bright with a wide viewing angle. And I know where to find them.

If your power window and lock switches look like these, and you'd like to change the lighting color to something different, and something brighter, read on. These switches are from Scottie's 2007 Escape, which I converted when I also converted his gauges:

Here's the side view of the front-door switches:

Here's the side view of one of the rear-door switches:

Here are the front-door switch modules after removing their bezels:

Here's one of the rear-door switch modules after removing the bezel:

I worked on the driver-side switch module first, since it was the most difficult to disassemble. Each switch rocker needs to be popped off of the switch before the module cover can be removed. I did this by applying pressure to one side of the switch rocker and pushing up. Luckily, I didn't break any of the four tabs that secure each rocker.

Here's the circuit board inside the driver-side switch module with the stock green LEDs:

Here are the LEDs I used for this conversion. I usually use TT/Optek flangeless 3mm LEDs ( http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... 65-1173-ND ), but Digi-Key was out of stock when I needed them. So I went to plan B: LiteOn dual-flange blue LEDs ( http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... 60-1600-ND ):

I didn't have a chance to take a picture of the back of this board, but the express-down add-on board needs to be partially removed to gain access to the solder pads for some of the LEDs. The leads on each new LED need to be bent exactly like the leads on the LED it replaces. Here's how the board looked after I installed the new blue LEDs:



That's it for the driver-side module. For the remaining modules (one power lock module for the front passenger, and three power window modules for the front passenger and two rear passengers), here's one of those modules after I disassembled it. Again, the rockers need to be popped off of the switch to remove the module cover.

Here's the circuit board and the stock green LEDs (and the grease used on the rocker assembly):

I changed the 560-ohm resistor on each of these modules to a 1,200-ohm resistor, which you should do if you're using blue, white, aqua, purple, or newer green (525nm) LEDs (3 volts or higher). If you're using red, orange, amber, or older green (565nm) LEDs, you can keep the stock resistor.

Here's the stock lighting, using a 12V power pack:

Even after using a higher resistor, the same power, and the same exposure level, here are the new blue LEDs:

Finally:

Please PM me if you need to find LEDs. There are thousands of different LEDs and lots of colors that will work with these switches, but there are only a few that are really bright with a wide viewing angle. And I know where to find them.