[jpark]

Nigel asked me to post pictures of the power window and lock switches used in the 2001-2007 Escapes, and in some other years in markets outside North America and Korea.

If your power window and lock switches look like these, and you'd like to change the lighting color to something different, and something brighter, read on. These switches are from Scottie's 2007 Escape, which I converted when I also converted his gauges:

Here's the side view of the front-door switches:

Here's the side view of one of the rear-door switches:

Here are the front-door switch modules after removing their bezels:

Here's one of the rear-door switch modules after removing the bezel:

I worked on the driver-side switch module first, since it was the most difficult to disassemble. Each switch rocker needs to be popped off of the switch before the module cover can be removed. I did this by applying pressure to one side of the switch rocker and pushing up. Luckily, I didn't break any of the four tabs that secure each rocker.

Here's the circuit board inside the driver-side switch module with the stock green LEDs:

Here are the LEDs I used for this conversion. I usually use TT/Optek flangeless 3mm LEDs ( http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... 65-1173-ND ), but Digi-Key was out of stock when I needed them. So I went to plan B: LiteOn dual-flange blue LEDs ( http://search.digikey.com/scripts/DkSea ... 60-1600-ND ):

I didn't have a chance to take a picture of the back of this board, but the express-down add-on board needs to be partially removed to gain access to the solder pads for some of the LEDs. The leads on each new LED need to be bent exactly like the leads on the LED it replaces. Here's how the board looked after I installed the new blue LEDs:

That's it for the driver-side module. For the remaining modules (one power lock module for the front passenger, and three power window modules for the front passenger and two rear passengers), here's one of those modules after I disassembled it. Again, the rockers need to be popped off of the switch to remove the module cover.

Here's the circuit board and the stock green LEDs (and the grease used on the rocker assembly):

I changed the 560-ohm resistor on each of these modules to a 1,200-ohm resistor, which you should do if you're using blue, white, aqua, purple, or newer green (525nm) LEDs (3 volts or higher). If you're using red, orange, amber, or older green (565nm) LEDs, you can keep the stock resistor.

Here's the stock lighting, using a 12V power pack:

Even after using a higher resistor, the same power, and the same exposure level, here are the new blue LEDs:

Finally:

Please PM me if you need to find LEDs. There are thousands of different LEDs and lots of colors that will work with these switches, but there are only a few that are really bright with a wide viewing angle. And I know where to find them.

 

[Nigel]

Totally Awesome - Thank you!!

 

[SilverAthlon]

Thanks for the in-depth guide. I noticed that on the switches in my truck when I turn off individual window control for passengers, it disables windows and actually turns off the window up/down LED's. I'm not sure if that's something that's standard or not, but I thought it was pretty neat.

 

[jpark]

:thumb:

The switch lighting also worked like that on my 2005 Escape, and on both my Edge and our Fusion (although they use newer switches that don't need to have the rockers pried off).

 

[Breensy]

now all you need to do is start selling those switch's already modded ill buy a set

 

[SilverAthlon]

Good guide and information, think I'll compliment you again!! Way to go.

 

[Nigel]

Well, I finally got hooked into my doors. Ive changed all of the green LED's for Amber.
I had to change the 560r resistors for 7k3 to keep the brightness down.

I also modded the drivers door switch so that the disable switch only disables the rear doors. My wife doesnt like being locked out, and I figure that you can always "control" the opposite switch with a good er... thump.

Pics some time when my car gets back : Its down at ford getting new Front Bearings I believe (Warranty) as well as a harsh 1-2 and 3-2 shift looked at.

Bummer... I really wanted my car for the weekend. Wife is away, and the Dash was going to change from Blue to Amber.

 

[Nigel]

Ok - got the car back. Have changed the Door Switches - Pics of results attached.
I modified the D/S Switch so that the disable only disables the rear doors, and not the front passenger one. On the Pre 03 switches (only one switch lit) this was a matter of cutting a copper track, and running two wires from the Drivers Window Circuit to the Passenger Circuit.
Next Mod would be to Add a single wire to the Door harness, and change the defeat so that only the door switches are defeated, with the Master switch still working. A single relay should be able to do that as all of the windows get their power from the BCM
Sorry for the poor pics - Low light, and shaky hand. You will notice the reflections off the chrome handles.
Passenger Switch

Drivers Switch

Thanks again to Mr Park.
Next part of my quest is to source a very cheap fully lit D/s unit from the US, to modify for here in Aus. I need the LED Carriers, and the casing itself.

Nigel

 

[madsuns]

Hi guys, today I've modded myself my door controls with the blue LED, I have a 2001 Mazda Tribute and for your informations, for those who want to do it (for the ones who have the Tribute) all doors are the same thing as the Escape execept for the driver's door. On my Tribute I have a different electric board in the control box, The only button who lit up are the driver's window only. All others windows buttons and door lock button are non-LED powered! I think my electronic board are 1st Generation, the board itself are white and not green, and the non-LED button are in 3 parts with spring loaded.

Tomorrow I will search for an Escape control in the scrapyard around.... for all others control they are blue-LED lighted and that's are very badass!!!! :thumb: