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2004 Escape XLT (3.0) Trouble Codes (Please Help)

3.7K views 10 replies 5 participants last post by  beerman812  
#1 ·
Please help. I just bought this escape about a week ago. It ran and drove GREAT for a high milage vehicle (180k). About 4 days ago I had a rough idle situation which I was able to diagnose and resolve by replacing vacuum hose (the one that notoriously collapses at the L shaped boot). Problem solved, or so I thought. Last night the car ran very rough and had a flashing check engine light. I was an hour away from home and nursed it all the way home (I know, not a good idea with flashing CEL). I had the codes read at Autozone a moment ago and there were many. Here's what I'm looking at: P0300, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0306 as well as P2196, P0172 and P0316.

I understand that P0300-P0306 are misfires on those specific cylinders. My hope is that P2196 and P0172 are related to the misfire. P0316 seems random to me.

Based upon these codes, what is your advice? Change plugs and Coil Packs on all cylinders? I am somewhat mechanically inclined (brakes, fluid changes, etc.). Is this a DIY job (concerned about the intake portion).

Advice is appreciated. Would driving the car in this condition for a period of one hour cause permanent damage to the computer and/or converters?
 
#3 ·
beerman812 said:
Any input or direction folks? Want to make sure I'm heading down the right path. Also concerned that I may have damaged the Cat by driving it for an hour while missing and CEL flashing.
do you have a record where say when was serviced and what they replace? i bought mine last year (2003 xls, today have 150+ k miles) since then i have to replace lot of parts, not because a check engine show up but because have no idea what was done with the truck and have no serviced reference so i replace, coils, spark plugs, egr valve, egr selenoid, gas filter, gasket valve cover, pcv ensemble, breaks (new drilled disk and ceramic pads), air filter, replace the break hoses (they where cracked), front struts and mounts, sway bar links, last week a oil light come up blinking so i replace oil sensor sender, and nex week i have to replace the 4 O2 sensor, in the future the 3 catalyst converter (really expensive :( ), one was clogged so i have to remove it, thanks to the people here i resolve 98% of the problems with my truck, hope they can help you out as well
 
#4 ·
Thanks. I'm looking into past service records. I've only owned the vehicle for about two weeks. If I didn't know any better I'd say either the seller knew of these problems (not sure how he would have masked them though) or I am just VERY unlucky. I expect problems on an older high milage vehicle but this happened very quickly for a vehicle that was running perfectly. I'm really hopeful for some expert advice on next steps given those codes and the possible damage I could have caused by driving it in that condition.
 
#5 ·
P2196 is O2 Bank 1 Sensor 1 sensor stuck rich
P0172 is Bank 1 system too rich
P0136 is Misfire detected on startup (first 1000 revolutions)

I would suggest you go back over your work from replacing the vacuum hose and ensure everything is properly connected. I find it unusual that the whole back bank would suddenly act up on it's own.
 
#6 ·
I can find no problems with the part that I replaced. It connected via a l shaped boot to the rear of the engine (intake) down through the motor to another connection (about 18" long). Both connections appear fine. I've inspected a lot of vacuum lines and electrical connectors. I disconnected the battery as well. CEL is gone but still running pretty rough (exhaust is loud and a bit of a ticking/hissing sound by the intake manifold). I'm frustrated to say the least.
 
#8 ·
Replacing all the gaskets and the injector O-rings will be my first choice. Solved all the problems on my other V-6 until a couple injectors cratered. Injector problems are hard to find. They will throw rich codes because others will try to compensate, then the system will swing the opposite way and lean it out.
 
#9 ·
Hey all. Still planning to replace my CoP's, plugs and intake gaskets tomorrow. Update however. I disconnected negative battery cable (cleared codes). Car is still running badly but only code it's throwing at the moment is P2195. I'm going to let it run a little longer to see if any additional codes appear.
 
#10 ·
I didn't see this til now.

I would have pulled the plugs, all, and inspected for evidence of misfire, and checked the gap. You can do that, and if careful, can re-position the intake back in place and it will seal if it was sealing previously. At the same time, I would have checked the COP boots for oil and other damage. If they get oily due to cam cover gasket failure, they must be replaced. Cleaning only delays the inevitable.
I would not have driven with the engine missing. Catalytic converters are too dang expensive, and this engine will cook them in a matter of minutes from what others report. If you are non-California, you can get and use after-market, but as far as I know, only OEM units can be used in CA unless someone has gotten C.A.R.B. approval for aftermarket units.
I think failed cats are a significant cause of retiring these vehicles as they are so expensive.
If you are hearing a hissing and ticking by the intake, I would be it is not sealed properly. Being made of plastic, I would strongly suggest the use of a torque wrench to tighten the bolts to spec and in several steps, and IN SEQUENCE.
If you tighten one down all the way, and go on to the next, you will run a greater risk of leakage. Better to thread them by hand {1/4" drive using a 'screwdriver handle'}, and then follow the sequence, using a torque wrench, tighten 1/2 way or so on one go round, and then either 1 or 2 more steps to the full torque value.
I think something came loose and is causing air leakage into the intake, FWIW.
tom