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2005 Escape 2.3L XLS AWD
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This is something I've been pecking away at for several months, I thought I'd share my experience. Adding factory cruise isn't particularly difficult, but if you aren't very comfortable with automotive wiring, this project may not be for you. Sorry I didn't take a bunch of pictures, but there again, if you can't understand what I'm saying here and follow a wiring diagram, then proceed at your own risk.

Why the bean counters decided to make a special front harness without a few wires for a cruise control harness baffles me. All necessary wires for the cruise are in the dash harness and go as far as connectors 260 and 263 at the driver LH side footwell. The wires for the necessary connections in the engine bay are there but apparently just disappear somewhere. Ford literally only saved about 50' of 20 gauge wire and a connector by doing this.

First step, go to a U-pull-it yard and find an Escape with cruise, preferably one of the same year and same engine as yours. I don't know how stable the color codes are between years / series, having matching colored wires makes this job much easier)
Complete steering wheel with controls -- There's a tiny hex headed stud that sticks down at the back side of the wheel, this acts like a worm drive for the "nut" that holds the wheel in place. An electric drill works great here. Back off that stud about 100 turns until the wheel falls off in your hands--don't let it fall off! Unplug the 2 connectors from the clockspring. The connectors changed between series, you may want to pull your existing wheel off first to make sure you get the right connectors and save yourself a trip back (experience).
Brake pedal interrupt switch - this is in addition to the brake light switch, which you already have. I think it was green, at least in 2005. you don't need the pigtail, that's already in your dash wadded up against the firewall. You just need the switch.
CC Servo and mounting bracket
Wiring--This is where patience pays off. You'll need to remove some components, but get the engine bay harness exposed and opened up and pull the wires for the cruise connector. The ground just goes to the stud at the base of the washer bottle neck, you can cut it off there. If you pull the other wires out all the way around to the LH side of the engine bay, where they splice in, that will be enough wire. Remember--it's easier to have too much and cut it off later than run short. Some others have used trailer wiring, but this makes a very clean, professional looking installation and makes troubleshooting much easier in the future.
You'll need some 1/4" and 1/2" loom tubing, small zip ties, electrical tape, a pink 1/4" ring terminal for the ground and a pink butt connector (for Pete's sake, get ones with shrink tubing) and 7 posi-taps in the 20-22 ga size. You can get these off Amazon. IMO there is no easier or more secure way to tap into the existing wiring than a Posi-tap, if you haven't used them before you're in for a treat.
I HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend you get a OEM wiring guide off EBay. It's worth the $40-50 just for peace of mind that you're doing it right.

Now, the install:
Install brake interrupt switch just like you pulled it out. The pigtail is tied up, but it's there.
Install the steering wheel, again using the stud to tighten the nut. Don't go Goldberg on it, you don't want to break it off. Make sure the clocking is right.
Install the servo and cable to the throttle.

You will need to remove the battery tray, air filter box, and intake hose to access a couple connections. Also makes the job basically easier.
I ran the wires along the firewall and over the brake booster.

Pin 2 (Light Blue-Yellow) open up the harness a few inches from the Transmission Range sensor connector, you will find a matching color wire, tap into it.
Pin 3 (Gray-Black) If you open up the harness a few inches above the ABS Module connector you will find a matching color wire, tap into it.
Pin 7 (Light Blue-Pink) Look for the plug on the end of the ABS test connector, near the brake booster. Cut the wire loop (wire should be matching colors) and use the butt connector to tie all 3 wires together.
Pin10 (black) need a 1/4" ring terminal, goes to the ground bolt located at the base of the washer bottle fill

All other wires need to run through the firewall to the drivers LH footwell where all the body connectors are. There's a fantastic grommet there where the clutch pedal master cylinder would have mounted, it works great for this. You'll need to open up the harness a few inches from the plugs to expose the wires and make it easier to tap into them.

Pin 9 (Red-Light green) Tap into the Tan-Orange wire at connector 263 (white, smaller inline connector, behind connector 260). This is the same color wire as the brake interrupt pigtail.
Pin 4 (Light green) Tap into matching color wire at connector 263
Pin 5 (Light Blue-Black) Tap into matching color wire at connector 260 (largest, off-white connector)
Pin 6 (Dark Green-Orange) Same as above
Pin 1 (Orange-Light blue) Same as above

Tidy it all up, and it should work! No programming required. You'll even have the dash indicator, and you will maintain the factory correct power supply so the fuse labelling will be correct. Plus, you'll have an airbag left over you can do experiments with (got any annoying neighborhood pets?)
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