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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The battery light just came on tonight on our 2005 Escape Limited. The battery is fairly new. Could it be the alternator?
 

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A lot of people think they saw their battery warning light come on when it was really a low coolant light. The two look a lot alike. Your owner's manual will show you the difference.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
This is defiantly the battery light. We had a 2001 escape that the coolant light always came on when it was full. The battery light in our 2005 is in the right side bottom of the cluster.
 

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New battery's can die if they were sitting on the store shelf for a long time. So even a new battery can go bad. If you have a warranty, ask for a replacement battery. If not, ask for a replacement anyway... See what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
im going to have advance auto test the battery and alternator today and see what happens. Right now it still starts like a champ but i havent ran any lights of blowers either to drain the battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ok just got home from advance auto and they said the alternator dead. They also said the best way to check is to disconnect the positive battery cable. If it stalls the the alternator is not charging. Is this true? He did it to mine and it stalled
 

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offroad4x4 said:
Ok just got home from advance auto and they said the alternator dead. They also said the best way to check is to disconnect the positive battery cable. If it stalls the the alternator is not charging. Is this true? He did it to mine and it stalled
Why wouldn't it stall? You just remove power from the PCM!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I know thats what i thought.....i read online some where to disconnect the cable to. I have never heard of this before till now
 

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Best way to check if your alternator is charging is put a voltmeter on the battery while the vehicle is running.
You should have around 14.5V.
When you turn the Escape off, the battery should be above 12.4V.
 

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Disconnecting any of the battery terminals on these cars while the engine is running is the dampest thing I've heard.And that because there is a great possibility that you burn the alternator's voltage regulator plus running the danger of putting the PCM to sleep for good.
Any place that practice that method, (which goes back 40 years), should be avoided, no matter what they are called or how many years are in the business.
With time and specific usages one or more battery cells get warped.That means that the battery can not give full voltage neither accept full voltage.
So, here comes the "idiot", checks the battery's input with the car running, sees it low and decides that the alternator is the culprit, while the battery screams for a change.
That is the bad thing with franchising.
 

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SUVord said:
Disconnecting any of the battery terminals on these cars while the engine is running is the dampest thing I've heard.And that because there is a great possibility that you burn the alternator's voltage regulator plus running the danger of putting the PCM to sleep for good.
Any place that practice that method, (which goes back 40 years), should be avoided, no matter what they are called or how many years are in the business.
With time and specific usages one or more battery cells get warped.That means that the battery can not give full voltage neither accept full voltage.
So, here comes the "idiot", checks the battery's input with the car running, sees it low and decides that the alternator is the culprit, while the battery screams for a change.
That is the bad thing with franchising.
You check the battery voltage at rest and it should be between 12-13V range. Start the engine and the voltage should rise to somewhere betwen 13.5V-14.8V which means the alternator is "trying" to charge. Put you high beam head lights, heater, etc. for a load and the voltage should drop and then rise back to the 13.5V-14.8V range. Over 15.2-15.5V is considered to be overcharging. If the voltage drops below 10V while starting the battery is undercharged.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
You said it SUVord! Bad idea.... I bought my own volt meter and check it last night and im getting 12.4V when the cars off and between 10.2-11 running. So needless to say im paying a friend $100 to put the alternator on tomorrow for me. Its not worth my time and aggravation to me.
 

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Actually it was wptski with his added comments with whom I absolutely agree.
Good luck with your new alternator.
 

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I am having this same issues (2005 Escape Limited 3.0 V6 4WD); however, I have replaced the alternator and battery (brand new both) and this light still comes on intermittently. Much less than before, yet the battery light does come on here and there. It is certainly the battery light (+ and -). I am stumped now as I can't figure it out. The truck runs great! Is it possible an aftermarked radio is the issue (It came to my mind once I started thinking about what all takes electricity)? There are no aftermarket speakers or subwoofers, just the radio head. Any suggestions? Is there a sensor for this that can go bad? Or a fuse?

Let me know what you think because I am just picky and it is annoying me haha.
 

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4 Wheel Drive said:
Is there a sensor for this that can go bad?
The Escape (and maybe other cars nowadays) is odd in that the computer has direct control over the alternator. My Tribute with a new Motorcraft alternator doesn't output all the time, only on demand as the computer determines. At idle, it will be running at 14.3 and then drop to 13.1 for a couple of minutes, then go back to 14.3. During the time the alternator is turned off by the PCM, the battery light is not enabled.

Take a look at this:

http://www.idmsvcs.com/2vmod/alternator ... echlin.pdf

Your problem may be the PCM, either not properly managing the alternator or maybe it's working properly but not disabling the battery light during the time the alternator is turned off. The other possibility is that you have an intermittent alternator. Reading on line reviews of alternators showing a lot of people getting defective replacements, which is why I opted for the Motorcraft unit given the difficulty in replacing it.

John
 

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It's not a PCM issue or anything related. The final debunking of this came from a master Ford and Mazda tech I spoke with and picked his mind. He said without certainty its never an electrical problem at all. The computer (PCM) is programmed with how much specific power the car should be drawing. Any more OR less power being drawn trips the battery light. This can include issues for myself that I tested. I put the default stock halogen headlight bulbs back in the car along with any aftermarket applications such as the radio head and found the light would not come back. When I put LED headlights and the radio and other LED bulbs back in, surprise the battery light was back. Best recommendation is pull apart the dash and replace all the lights in the back while you're pulling the light bulb for the battery light.
 

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So I feel as though there is not clear options to what is wrong? It may be the PCM (should I replace it?). There really does not seem to be any issues with the truck even with the light comes on. What should I replace now since there is a new alternator and battery in? Or just ride it out?
 

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Alright once again you can replace as many things as you want but it won't change the battery light. The PCM is fine and everything is fine, its anything aftermarket in the car AT ALL will cause the light. Anything electrical that isn't OE will trigger it. It won't hurt anything by being on. If it bothers you enough take out the dash and remove the light behind it.
 
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