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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi I often get a dead HV and 12v battery situation when I leave town and don't drive the car for a week. Does anybody have a suggestion for a portable battery jumping unit that will provide sustained power for the 8 minute power drawing period that the high voltage battery gets from the 12v battery to start the car in case there isn't another car or power outlet to jump from?

Obviously a trickle charger is the better answer, but I am still curious about portable jumpers that provide a sustained charge. I bought a Noco GB40 and am wondering if it would work or if there is a portable charger more suitable for FEH pre-2009 configuration.

 

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Make use you have the correct 12v battery for the hybrid. There is one that will fit (cheap), and there is the one designed for your hybrid (expensive).

For the HV battery going low, use Forscan to run the R-balance, which will refresh the battery.
 

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Lithium jump starters such as your GB40 are incapable of providing sustained power. That is why you can't properly rate them for CCA or CA...they are incapable of providing power for the required 30 seconds those ratings require by definition. That GB40 is very light on power to begin with, there is no way it will do what you want.

If your HVTB has discharged beyond a certain point, the computer is going to take it "offline" to isolate it. Remember, your 12 volt battery isn't starting the car. It is energizing the circuits to allow the HVTB to power the motor to start the gas engine. To provide your 12v battery sustained power to allow it to charge your HVTB back up you are going to need something like a Clore Jump-n-Carry JNC 660 or 770. They have AGM batteries and are capable of producing sustained power for much longer periods of time. Whether it can go 8 minutes or not, you would need to ask Clore. Ideally, you would keep a charger maintainer on the 12v battery to keep it fully charged and through the recharging your HVTB process.

You might be better served by purchasing a power station such as a Jackary Explorer 300 or Fanttik Evo 300 to power a proper maintainer/charger.
 

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As mentioned, those jump boxes do not work like you need them to. They provide a short term, high amperage hit to allow the starter on an ICE to run and start a car, allowing it to run off the generated 12v and start charging the 12v battery. That 1000 amp is great for almost any vehicle to jump start it. I have a 450 amp Harbor Freight one and it does great with everything I have used it on, from an Expedition with the 5.4 to a few vehicles not mine that I helped people with.

Are you sure your HVTB is going flat in a week, or the 12v, and both?
 
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2020 Ttanium Hybrid/2009 Limited Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
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Hi I often get a dead HV and 12v battery situation when I leave town and don't drive the car for a week. Does anybody have a suggestion for a portable battery jumping unit that will provide sustained power for the 8 minute power drawing period that the high voltage battery gets from the 12v battery to start the car in case there isn't another car or power outlet to jump from?

Obviously a trickle charger is the better answer, but I am still curious about portable jumpers that provide a sustained charge. I bought a Noco GB40 and am wondering if it would work or if there is a portable charger more suitable for FEH pre-2009 configuration.
Welcome to the city, FP
I would suggest checking your 12V under load. It is a free service at your local chain store.

my 09 sits regularly for a couple of weeks, and I have never had an issue.

Sounds like you either have a draw, or failing 12V.

I use one of these on my CJ-7

I have a pocket size jump pack, 20,000 Mah… It won't do anything when the battery is completely dead

I use a 500cca booster pack for most jumps, I also carry it for when the 12v fails, cause 12v failure shuts the car down, no warnings, when it does.
 
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Welcome to the city, FP
I would suggest checking your 12V under load. It is a free service at your local chain store.

my 09 sits regularly for a couple of weeks, and I have never had an issue.

Sounds like you either have a draw, or failing 12V.

I use one of these on my CJ-7

I have a pocket size jump pack, 20,000 Mah… It won't do anything when the battery is completely dead

I use a 500cca booster pack for most jumps, I also carry it for when the 12v fails, cause 12v failure shuts the car down, no warnings, when it does.
None of those things are going to help keep his 12v battery fully charged while he's bringing up the charge on his HVTB. The recommendation is to keep a 10 amp charger/maintainer on it.
 

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None of those things are going to help keep his 12v battery fully charged while he's bringing up the charge on his HVTB. The recommendation is to keep a 10 amp charger/maintainer on it.
My car sits for weeks and doesn't go dead, he's got a problem(a draw, or its a short).
Sticking a 12v charger on it does not fix the problem. The car starts with the high voltage battery.

step one: test your system for draw- you have your 12 V battery load tested at an auto parts store.(failing this usually results in a start/shut off after a few secs- scenario)

step two: you have your high-voltage battery tested for dead cells. A reputable Hybrid repair shop will rebuild batteries for a few hundred bucks, rather than swapping them completely out for thousands.
Pretty sure I've seen links on here how to test for dead cells, and swap them.

I am interested to hear his solution. That he can jumpstart it and drive it makes me think there is a draw somewhere...
I guess worst-case scenario would be his brake regeneration system is not working, or malfunctioning
 
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
My car sits for weeks and doesn't go dead, he's got a problem(a draw, or its a short).
Sticking a 12v charger on it does not fix the problem. The car starts with the high voltage battery.

step one: test your system for draw- you have your 12 V battery load tested at an auto parts store.(failing this usually results in a start/shut off after a few secs- scenario)

step two: you have your high-voltage battery tested for dead cells. A reputable Hybrid repair shop will rebuild batteries for a few hundred bucks, rather than swapping them completely out for thousands.
Pretty sure I've seen links on here how to test for dead cells, and swap them.

I am interested to hear his solution. That he can jumpstart it and drive it makes me think there is a draw somewhere...
I guess worst-case scenario would be his brake regeneration system is not working, or malfunctioning
I do have a draw that I'm aware of, which is a bluetooth receiver that always stays on. I think a combination of removing the draw, checking my 12v battery and probably replacing it since its been emptied so many times in its 3 year life, and looking into solar maintainer when not near an outlet is what i need to feel more confident in being able to let the car sit. I appreciate all the replies.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My car sits for weeks and doesn't go dead, he's got a problem(a draw, or its a short).
Sticking a 12v charger on it does not fix the problem. The car starts with the high voltage battery.

step one: test your system for draw- you have your 12 V battery load tested at an auto parts store.(failing this usually results in a start/shut off after a few secs- scenario)

step two: you have your high-voltage battery tested for dead cells. A reputable Hybrid repair shop will rebuild batteries for a few hundred bucks, rather than swapping them completely out for thousands.
Pretty sure I've seen links on here how to test for dead cells, and swap them.

I am interested to hear his solution. That he can jumpstart it and drive it makes me think there is a draw somewhere...
I guess worst-case scenario would be his brake regeneration system is not working, or malfunctioning
Would i be able to tell if the regenerative braking is working properly from the gauge? I don't see it moving very far into the "charge" region, even during relatively hard braking at speed
 

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Would i be able to tell if the regenerative braking is working properly from the gauge? I don't see it moving very far into the "charge" region, even during relatively hard braking at speed
That could be a real possibility, mine will get pretty deep when braking hard. I am really surprised you're not getting a code though.
You would have to have Forscan, or a similar diagnostic tool to be able to test it yourself
 
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