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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I need a little bit of help in a big way. I have a 2008 Ford Escape and I'm trying to hook up two subs and an amp to my factory radio. So far I have a line out converter hooked up to my factory radio. I am wondering what I should hook the remote turn on lead to. Because when I turn my car on my amp turns on and nothing plays. And also the amp doesn't turn off when the car turns off. So I'm wondering if the problem is with the LOC but I'm not sure. I appreciate the help in advance. Thanks, by the way I don't have the premium sound system
Nick
 

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You want to hook the amp turn on to the switched 12v lead, not the constant 12v. I believe there are some wiring diagrams on this forum.

As for nothing playing, what do you have hooked up so far? Are the gains on the amp properly set? Where is the LOC tapped in to?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
YHey Im pretty much a newbie at car audio, my friend did most of the installation while I watched but do you think that I myself can pull up the wiring diagrams and hook the turn on to the the switched 12v lead and that might solve my issues? Also for the LOC I know it is hooked up to all of the right speaker wires behind the radio. So im not sure what the problem is, my gians on the amp are fine...
 

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From what I can gather the yellow w/ black stripe wire is the ACC switched 12v. This is where you should tap in the remote turn on lead.

Here are some diagrams:
http://www.escape-city.com/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=910

You can make sure you are getting a signal to/from the LOC with a volt meter. I would tap into the rear speaker leads for the sub LOC if you are leaving everything else stock.

Then just double check everything. Turn on lead secure, RCAs secure, speaker wires to the subs secure, etc.
 

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After you have double-checked everything, if there is still no signal to the amp, the volt meter I mentioned in the last post can be used to check signals. You can pick one of these up for about $10 at Autozone, Walmart, or similar stores.
 

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Has anyone had luck using the yellow/black wire as a remote wire for an amplifier? If not, where would you attach the remote wire for an amplifier?
 

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Has anyone used the yellow/black wire? If not, what can I use as a remote turn on? I am going to be attempting the same thing as the original poster did.
 

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Former lurker here picking up a lot of good info.

I'm thinking about the same procedure of hooking a subwoofer amp to the factory headunit. Could anyone tell me the best way of connecting the RCA line to the factory headunit?

THANKS!!
 

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Fourthmeal or Jpark are a couple of the recognized audio/electrical gurus on this site. I'd try dropping them a PM with your questions.
 

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I just don't know why it is being asked, there are many posts on the subject and it has been covered to death already.

Newbies to the forums need to learn how to use the search engine. It works, I promise.

FYI, rear taps will work but the factory HU is severely EQ contoured on the rear speakers, and only mildly on the front speakers. Better to tap into the front outputs.
 

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fourthmeal said:
FYI, rear taps will work but the factory HU is severely EQ contoured on the rear speakers, and only mildly on the front speakers.
Please explain how are the front and rear contours different? Do you have any specifics on what frequencies and how many db's they're cut or gained?

Thanks,
Jason
 

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StruckBy99 said:
fourthmeal said:
FYI, rear taps will work but the factory HU is severely EQ contoured on the rear speakers, and only mildly on the front speakers.
Please explain how are the front and rear contours different? Do you have any specifics on what frequencies and how many db's they're cut or gained?

Thanks,
Jason
Sure.

I measured the outputs on my '08 Mazda Tribute on all channels before I settled on pulling from the front channels when I first installed my 3sixty.2 processor in-line with the factory HU. This was the first iteration of my system design. The 3sixty.2 takes outputs from the deck, digitizes it in 24bit, and then applies 31 bands of EQ to smooth out the response back to a somewhat flat level. The amount of EQ done on the rear speakers was bad enough that the processor ran out of EQ bandwidth before it ran flat. The fronts were a little off but not unbearable. This contour changes with volume, much like "loudness" buttons do. You can hear it in the output from front to back, as well. Those speakers are identical from what I remember, but the sound is completely different, even near-field.

In the end, I put the factory rear speaker wire back to stock, and tapped off the front speakers and sub output only. the Sub btw is shielded twisted pair, not speaker level. The processor had to compensate for that with major boost, but it was able to make it just barely.

The actual contour was not recorded. I gave up when I received error after error in attempting to flatten it out. Doing the fronts got me there so I kept it at that. To give you an idea though, the rear looked like a plateau, with heavy LF cuts and heavy HF cuts. Also the response was quite ragged overall, indicating distortion. The fronts definitely have the same plateau but it is more like a foothill than a mountain. It is fixable.

A note on this, the clipping lights indicated that the head unit was capable of semi-clean output up to about 1/2 volume. So when I set up my system, my volume knob's "clicks" on the on-screen display never could exceed 1/2 the available amount before severe distortion set in. Because of this I had to deal with the stock HU's volume changes in huge jumps. Meaning, one single bump of volume on the knob made roughly 3dB difference. Quite drastic, and hard to find the ideal listening volume. Changing to the Pioneer F900BT head unit made it much easier to find the sweet spot. Amongst many other advantages.
 

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I'm amazed at how different the front and rear sound with all settings being equal. It seems the rears are limited in volume as well. I'm also amazed that the 10db of attenuation, through the 3sixty.2, wasn't enough to flatten the response of the rears.
Thanks for the info,
Jason
 
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