Can I buy a factory sub from a 2008 limited etc, and install it in my 2008 xlt without issue ? I need something factory looking so I can still have the cargo space open. I upgraded the head unit and I know it has a rca style subwoofer output ( harness kit might even have the Ford subwoofer connection, not sure) but as far as fitting and wiring into my xlt will it be a problem?
2008 XLT - adding a factory sub
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You can even buy woofer from 2005-2007. The only thing - you'll need to change the amp, as it depends on stock headunit. You can look here https://www.drive2.ru/l/4440794/ at the pics of my 2011 Mariner with woofer from 2006 (but both amp and speaker are changed, only the box is used). Rear panel is also from 2006, I haven't managed to find rear panel from 2008+ with woofer grille.
To the original poster, are you asking if you can add the factory subwoofer in an Escape that did not come with a factory subwoofer to begin with? If that's what you're asking, then I'm interested to see if it can be done or not. Earlier today I pulled the panel off my newly acquired 2009 Ford Escape thinking there was a subwoofer and amp, and I was disappointed to see that there isn't one. I should have known, since the panel does not have the speaker grill.
I want to add some bass to the vehicle but not too much, and I don't want a subwoofer to be visible. Just wondering if I add a factory subwoofer and amp, how that works as far as wiring. I'm thinking, if you're using an aftermarket deck that has an RCA sub output, then run RCA cables from the subwoofer/amp to the deck. As for power to the amp, instead of running a cable from the battery to the amp (which I would do if i was usign a bigger amp for more power), I wonder if the power wire for the amp can just come from the deck itself (ie. just use a thin gauge wire to the power wire for the deck. Same idea for the ground wire) ?
I want to add some bass to the vehicle but not too much, and I don't want a subwoofer to be visible. Just wondering if I add a factory subwoofer and amp, how that works as far as wiring. I'm thinking, if you're using an aftermarket deck that has an RCA sub output, then run RCA cables from the subwoofer/amp to the deck. As for power to the amp, instead of running a cable from the battery to the amp (which I would do if i was usign a bigger amp for more power), I wonder if the power wire for the amp can just come from the deck itself (ie. just use a thin gauge wire to the power wire for the deck. Same idea for the ground wire) ?
Eyescream, yeah that's exactly what I meant in my original post. I don't think it will work though as I'm not sure there is anywhere to mount it - wiring can be done but the panels are different like you mentioned. I'm not gonna cut a whole in my panel if it did. I thi k it would surely just rattle if i didnt. So Not sure what's available at this point . Gonna keep looking
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All you need to do is get the panel from the junkyard where you get your sub box from. It will fit, but you will have to have your own wires for it.-deez said:
As an aside, not for your year, But I have a sub box, speaker, amp and panel for a tribute (tribute panel is too big for an escape) for sale if anyone is interested. :yes:
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There is another post on this forum where the owner added a subwoofer/box, and trim panel to his Explorer from junkyard components. Shouldn't be too hard.
I have a Pioneer AVIC-8200NEX running the OEM Subwoofer in a 2012 and the sound is excellent!
I have a Pioneer AVIC-8200NEX running the OEM Subwoofer in a 2012 and the sound is excellent!
There are other options that are easier to wire and perform better like a JL Audio MicroSub...you can mount them under the floor or behind the seat - they're only a few inches deep. MTX Audio also has Escape-specific sub enclosures for various models over the years.
One issue with OEM subs is they often use a weird voltage and are powered by the head unit - you might have to do a step-down conversion to make one work with a higher powered (aftermarket) head unit or amp.
One issue with OEM subs is they often use a weird voltage and are powered by the head unit - you might have to do a step-down conversion to make one work with a higher powered (aftermarket) head unit or amp.
Just to add my opinion here, I have since decided to add a shallow sub and box right on the floor by building a false floor/subfloor. If I put 2x4's around the hatch I should have about 6" height to play with. There are sub boxes on ebay that are as shallow as 5.25". so I'll put one of those on the floor and put plywood or some other wood over the 2x4's to create a new subfloor.
never done such a thing before but it can't be that hard
never done such a thing before but it can't be that hard
It can be done. You need to get the OEM sub/amp, the interior panel that covers it, and as much of the wiring as possible. Also if your factory radio does not have the the 3rd plug circled below you will need to get one one from a 2009+ Escape that came with a factory sub.
See wiring diagram here:
Sub/AMP Wirring Diagram
Hi, I have a 2010 Mariner 2.5L 4WD Premiere. Is there a wirring diagram that identifies the wires which go to the SUBWOOFER and AMP Thank you
www.escape-city.com
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Thank you. If my kid's 2010 radio had the opening I might be lucky. I think I might have a harness off the back of a shaker 500 that might work. I'll figure it out when I get thier. I'll keep looking around on here and on line for schematics to help me figure out what can I plug ot tap into to make it all work. I'll put pic if I can.It can be done. You need to get the OEM sub/amp, the interior panel that covers it, and as much of the wiring as possible. Also if your factory radio does not have the the 3rd plug circled below you will need to get one one from a 2009+ Escape that came with a factory sub.
View attachment 2256
See wiring diagram here:
Sub/AMP Wirring Diagram
Hi, I have a 2010 Mariner 2.5L 4WD Premiere. Is there a wirring diagram that identifies the wires which go to the SUBWOOFER and AMP Thank you
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