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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Summary: Bought my '09 Mercury Mariner (MM) @ a public auction in mid-January. This is technically my 3rd 'Ford CD2' based purchase, as I owned both a new '01 Escape and '02 Tribute in another life.

  • V6, AWD, 159,xxx miles, manual leather /heated seats (aftermarket?), Keyless entry keypad, Amenities Package (Ambient Lighting, auto-dim rear mirror, etc.) and/or Sun & SYNC Package with power moonroof with sunshade and mini-overhead console, Roof Rack, non-Premier.
  • Buying at auction is always a hitormiss proposition, but so far, I'm not disappointed. From the VIN I noted it was a one-owner, from the west-side of WA state, which means moderate winters and summers. Using the VIN on 'mycarfox.com' <sic>, I was able to pull up...not much in the way of Service History. Only 3 records. Not so good.
  • I don't claim to qualify for even 'shade-tree mechanic' status, but had my OBD2 code reader handy, but no codes were showing....other than the TPMS system was lit up. Assuming one of the sensors died from old age. But the MM was so 'clean' inside and out, that I was intrigued enough to keep an eye on it during the auction and made a bid...and won it.

-Drove it home w/out issue and started a 'To Do' list as I like to get the maintenance items out of the way. Since I didn't have much to go on other than the Oil Change sticker on the windshield.

- The Service History showed oil changes and "PCM reprogrammed" back in '14, which I don't know what that was for - yet. Edit: The PCM programming may be for the Throttle Body. See below.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 · (Edited)
I had it in for a post-Buyer's Inspection (yes, I know that's backarsewards) and they noted:
  • Oil leak from Timing cover - Haven't decided whether I want to tackle this or not, but does fix the TC, VC, and oil pan potential leaks. EDIT: Fixed.
  • LR lower control arm worn
  • Front brakes @ 10% ( and they vibrate a bit)

List of Maintenance, Updates, Upgrades and Wish List:
  • Air filter: 1/20/22
  • Spark Plugs: 1/20/22
  • Upper Plenum/intake gasket: 1/20/22
  • Oil Pressure Sensor/switch: 1/31/22
    • Oil light came on @ idle-occasionally- and here and elsewhere the switch was the usual culprit. A pain to replace, due to location, but got it done.
  • Oil & filter change: 1/20/22
  • Oil leaks fixed (?):
    • Took in to local shop and had them diagnose and fix a Timing Cover leak: 2/15/22
    • Had a secondary leak from the messed-up oil pan drain bolt. I'd bought an 'oversized' and I put some thread seal tape and RTV on it and appears to be dry after a day. May have to replace the oil pan @ some point: 3/22/22

  • Front Brake rotor & pads: 2/9/22
  • Front, Rear Diff, and PTU oil: 5/1/22 (or thereabouts)
  • LR Lower Control Arm: Amazon part installed: 3/05/22
  • Cabin filter: Pend - not sure mine has one?
  • Mud flaps - Installed some basic flaps: 6/10/22
    • Front and Rear Husky: 3/15/22 (these fit 90% I had modify the rears just a bit to work). Removed - didn't like 'em.
  • Tire upgrade: Hankook Dynapro AT2 RF11 235/75R16
  • Driver's side CV axle replaced: 7/6/22
  • Front KYB Struts - Full Assemblies - 'Quick Struts' and Rear KYB Gas-Adjust shocks: 9/1/22
  • Driver's front axle seal: 11/15/22
Upgrades/Updates:
  • HU / Stereo: Update 3/10/22: Bought a Ousim A8 Pro Carplay & Android and using a Metra WM-FD1 harness (see below). >>>
    • ATOTO F7 CarPlay & Android; Metra 99-5814S Dash kit; Ant. adapter; Crux SWRFD-60L adapter for SW controls -Edit: Failed after a week
      (I didn't want a navigation unit as they're out of date/obsolete so quickly)
  • Installed a USB extension/mount: 1/25/22
  • Rear cargo mat: 1/25/22 from my collection.
  • Rear Cargo upgrade - want to increase storage space UNDER the rear carpeted area.Mine didn't have the optional extra storage: 5/1/22
  • Rear Spoiler: Pend.
  • Backup cam: 6/25/22
  • Tow hitch and harness: 6/17/22
  • EDIT: Removed due to causing shudder/vibration in front.>>>Front and rear lift kit - installed 2" spacers on front and 'rubbershox' coil spacers on the rear: 7/3/22


Wish List:
  • Front seats - Upgrade to electric: Pend.

  • ECU/ECM tune: SCT Tuner and tune? Pend.



RECALLS: All up to date per NHTSA site- 2/3/22
 

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2020 Ttanium Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
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Summary: Bought my '09 Mercury Mariner (MM) @ a public auction in December. This technically my 3rd 'Ford CD2' based purchase, as I owned both a new '01 Escape and '02 Tribute in another life.


- Buying at auction is always a hitormiss proposition, but so far, I'm not disappointed. From the VIN I noted it was a one-owner, from the west-side of WA state, which means moderate winters and summers. Using the VIN on 'mycarfox.com' <sic>, I was able to pull up...not much in the way of Service History. Only 3 records. Not so good. I don't claim to qualify for even 'shade-tree mechanic' status, but had my OBD2 code reader handy, but no codes were showing....other than the TPMS system was lit up. Assuming one of the sensors died from old age. But the MM was so 'clean' inside and out, that I was intrigued enough to keep an eye on it during the auction and made a bid...and won it.

-Drove it home w/out issue and started a 'To Do' list as I like to get the maintenance items out of the way. Since I didn't have much to go on other than the Oil Change sticker on the windshield.
The Service History showed oil changes and "PCM reprogrammed" back in '14, which I don't know what that was for - yet.
I was just going to mention that only dealer services are recorded, not everybody lives near a dealership.
I would throw a large enough hunk of cardboard down underneath the engine bay, and look for any drips after an overnight.

I hope it stays solid for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I was just going to mention that only dealer services are recorded, not everybody lives near a dealership.
I hope it stays solid for you.
Thanks.
I've seen all types of shops in the Carfax, besides the Dealers.....I don't know the why/whatfors that determine it, but the Jiffy Lube type shops show up too, as did my local shop for my MM.
 

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2020 Ttanium Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
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Thanks.
I've seen all types of shops in the Carfax, besides the Dealers.....I don't know the why/whatfors that determine it, but the Jiffy Lube type shops show up too, as did my local shop for my MM.
that's pretty cool.
I have to manually enter service records that are not performed by a dealership. I keep meticulous paper records anyway.

I am now curious about the why's, and what fors ( :
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Fixing the TPMS
-The light was on when I bought the MM. All the tires were a little low, but didn't turn off the light after filling them all up. The TPMS not working is not an issue worth fixing 'right' since I check my tires regularly and a TPMS isn't going to tell me anything I don't already know if the tire actually fails, so.
-Searching online I discovered the Forscan software and this FORScan ELM327 OBD2 USB Adapter for Windows, Diagnostic Coding Tool with MS-CAN/HS-CAN Switch for Ford Lincoln Mazda Mercury Series Vehicle:
Product Gadget Font Audio equipment Material property

-I was able to install the software and use this tool to turn off the light.
-As there are many posts online with incomplete info, I wrote up this for a Summary of how to use these. With the age of these vehicles this will likley be more common.

Using Forscan and OBD2 Adapter to turn off TPMS.
>>>DISCLAIMER<<<<<DON'T DO THIS, as you can mess up your PCM/Computer, unless you take FULL RESPONSIBILITY. I'm Not Responsible If you do it anyway and screw up your Vehicle. Got it?
Note: YOU MUST GET THE EXTENDED LICENSE to 'Edit/Make Changes' using Forscan. IT's a 2-month FREE Trial.

Note: See this for info about OBD2 adapters: ELM327-compatible adapters - how to choose - FORScan forum
Summary: Buy the J2534 Passthru adapter for Professional use and Forscan ELM327 adapter for the Basics (the ELM327 will turn-off/disable the TPMS).

Here is one option: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MQ8GHG3 -There may be other options. But this one WORKS.

-IT MUST support HS-CAN/MS-CAN, usually via toggle switch on the adapter. A Generic ELM327 WiFi or BT likely won't work, unless it's been tested and shown to work with Forscan.

Install and Use info:

1. Set up Adapter: In Windows 10, while connected to the Internet, connect the adapter to your PC's USB port. Check in Device Manager under Ports that it shows the adapter. Likely called "USB-Serial CH340 (COM x)" - x will be an available COM port number; number doesn't matter. It may take Windows a 1-2 minutes to load the driver. If no yellow exclamation point is shown, then it's installed; otherwise you'll need to get a driver. If you download it, check the file with your AV/antivirus software before opening/accessing it.
2. Download and install Forscan - the top option should be the newest version: Download FORScan and read the documentation a few times: FORScan documentation v1.3.x
3. Retrieve the Hardware ID - needed for Extended License-see #3. Start Forscan. It's under the About section of Forscan software. The bottom left icon w/the ? mark.
4. On the same download page, click the 'Get Free Extended License - 2 months trial' and follow info: Support Request
Repeat Note: YOU MUST GET THIS EXTENDED LICENSE to 'Edit/Make Changes' using Forscan. Yes, it's FREE.
5. It can take HOURS to get the License via email, but you can't make changes without it. Save it to folder on your PC.
6. Load the key: In the same place you got the Hardware ID, load the license from the folder.
7. After the software restarts, connect the adapter to the OBD2 port of the car and the adapter's cable to the PC.
8. Click the upper left icon - with the car and 'i' icon - and click the Connect icon - two plugs connecting - on the bottom.
9. The software will show Reading Vehicle Info on the bottom menu bar. Wait for it to prompt, usually 2-3 times; ignore the message that the adapter won't work/isn't compatible, blah, blah. When it asks if your Adapter supports MS-CAN click Yes, and follow the prompt to switch the adapter to the MS-CAN - THIS STEP MUST BE DONE or it won't see all the options.
10. Click the Configuration and Programming icon (chip icon), and if you see the GEM option - near the bottom - (don't use the 'AS BUILT format' options), it's working.
11. Choose the Gem and click the Arrow/ 'Run Service Procedure' at the bottom.
12. Select the TPMS option (probably @ the bottom of the list), click 'Edit Selected' below it, choose '0-Disabled', click the check mark and then click Write to save it.
13. Follow instructions to cycle the ignition Off/On and Forscan should show the TPMS as 'Disabled' and the light and error message will no longer appear.

Note: If the adapter isn't seen by Forscan or Windows, troubleshooting is on you...too many variables to list them here. Review the Forscan site for more info: FORScan Home
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
HU (head unit) / Deck / Stereo / Digital Media Receiver install Edit: Harness option for $12
-I've updated the stock system on my last 4 vehicles to a CarPlay-compatible HU, usually adding a backup camera, too.
-For my MM, I started with the following:

>Crux SOOFD-27C adapter*
ATOTO F7 Carplay Recever
Metra 99-5814S Dash Kit
Metra 40-CR10 Antenna adapter
USB Extension Cable
-Install was mostly painless. I soldered the wiring harnesses together, plugged it in, moved over the HVAC controls to new dash kit and it worked. No SWC support, which I knew. There were complaints online about the quality of the dash kit? But it went in w/out issue and seems good enough. I stuck w/the stock silver color.
-I then decided I might want the SWC to work after all, so pulled the SOOfD-27C and bought it's big brother:
  • Crux SWRFD-60L adapter with Steering Wheel Control/SWC
-Reinstalled it all and....NOTHING. It was DOA. Screen was blank. Pulled it back out and double-checked the wiring and it was still as good as I could make it, so assumed 2nd adapter was bad from the factory, er, Amazon.

-I reinstalled the original SOOFD-27C and still DOA, WTH??? Now I was stuck....was the HU bad or the adapter?? Since I knew it HAD worked b4 the 2nd install, I'd put my $$ on the ATOTO dying. I checked the fuses on the HU and the MM's fuse panel and all were 'good'.

-*I decided to try another option. A straight-thru harness. This didn't have a 'module' to convert something to work withe MM's system.
-Caveats: The stock MM HU connectors do NOT have a dedicated 'Switched Accessory' wire (hot 12V wire when key is on; 0v when key is off)...Again, WTH??? I read this little bit of trivia online in another post or Amazon review. There's a Red wire in the stock connector that is in the correct spot for the adapter plug, but there's no voltage to it. Baffling! But the Yellow 'always hot' memory wire DID match up, so I'm guessing the module/logic board in the other adapters somehow figures out when to switch the power on/off from the Yellow and send it back out to the aftermarket HU's Red wire connection to power it up?? THIS DIAGRAM shows the 'MS-CAN' (Canbus) is a part of the stock system, and there must be some logic involved. Edit: This diagram's wiring colors and info is 'suspect' as it didn't match what I saw.

-Walmart sells this harness for <$12:
  • Metra WM-FD1 harness - It includes a wiring harness (1 of 3 included) that supports the speaker wires, dimmer, Ground (Earth for you Aussies) and the Yellow memory connections.
-Workaround: I started testing for a 12V switched source to tap into for the aftermarket HU, and found one connected to one of the 2 HVAC's harnesses. It's one of two solid-white wires. I T-tapped into it for the 12v that was then connected directly to the HU's 12V.
Electrical wiring Computer hardware Cable Electrical supply Audio equipment

-I plugged in the harness and reinstalled it all...AND....still DOA, so I'm returning the Atoto, too.

- Edit: Bought a HU with wireless Carplay, installed it and the Metra WM-FD1 harness WORKS as installed above.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
LO....Jacked?
-Edit:
I removed the whole harness and module without issue. The wiring ran down the driver's side foot well under the 'entry molding', and had about 5 wire taps, in addition to the wire taps under the plastic cover below the steering wheel. I took multiple pics of the connections 'in case'. There was one wire that I spliced back together- which disabled starting - and was the only wiring I had to redo (and I can just unplug it if I ever need to make it hard(er) to steal).

-I noticed this on the plastic 'knee bolster' under the steering wheel - next to the hood release lever:
Automotive tire Automotive exterior Automotive design Bumper Gas

Asked on a FB forum and it's likely a tracking device installed by used car dealer; likely a 'pay here / buy here' type, or maybe a title loan place? Which is kinda weird considering the car's Autocheck history only shows one-owner and then it went to Auction a month later when I bought it.

I pulled the lower dash apart and found the 'Electronic Security Module'. Looks like two wires go to the ignition, and it wouldn't start when I disconnected the 2 connectors to the module. I was 'hoping' maybe I had remote start! But no other fobs were included and I tried some combos w/the stock fob 'lock 3x' etc, but didn't start up
☹
. I may uninstall it, since I don't like the idea if that module fails it won't start.
Vehicle Car Motor vehicle Electrical wiring Auto part

Automotive lighting Gadget Electrical wiring Finger Cable
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
Road Trip and Throttle Body (TB) replacement
- Noticed some hesitation on tip-in / acceleration and transmission shifting seemed 'off' - like a flare* between shifts, etc. and started looking into Recalls/TSBs/etc. and found the 13N03 Throttle Body replacement and 13B17 Calibration. So, I went shopping on Amazon and for $52 I bought the same model that is listed in the online Customer Satisfaction Program (see attached): DS7Z-9E926-D

  • I disconnected the battery, pulled the old one off and as my gasket/o-ring was fine, cleaned it up, and installed the new one. Reconnected the battery and did an idle calibration#.
  • The next day I headed out on a 600+ mile roundtrip...and the MM ran VERY WELL. 75MPH Freeway, multiple high elevation passes, city driving and had No hesitation, no shifting issues. Haven't checked MPG, but may be that improved, too? Also....and could be my imagination...seems to run quieter @ idle, even though the idle RPM hasn't changed.

*Flare: Read online about complaints of the Escape/MM's 6-speed 6F35 Transmission '2nd>3rd Gear Flare' issue, which I might have had b4 the TB replacement, but afterwards shifts great.

#Idle Calibration:
When the battery is disconnected or a new battery is installed, the engine must
relearn its idle and fuel trim strategy for optimum driveability and performance
.
To begin this process:
1. With the vehicle at a complete stop, set the parking brake.
2. Put the gearshift in P (Park), turn off all accessories and start the
engine.
3. Run the engine until it reaches normal operating temperature.
4. Allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
5. Turn the A/C on and allow the engine to idle for at least one minute.
6. Release the parking brake. With your foot on the brake pedal and with
the A/C on, put the vehicle in D (Drive) and allow the engine to idle for
at least one minute.
7. Drive the vehicle to complete the relearning process.
• The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles (16 km) or more to
relearn the idle and fuel trim strategy.
• If you do not allow the engine to relearn its idle trim, the idle
quality of your vehicle may be adversely affected until the idle
trim is eventually relearned.
When the battery is disconnected or a new battery installed, the
transmission must relearn its adaptive strategy. As a result of this, the
transmission may shift firmly. This operation is considered normal and
will not affect function or durability of the transmission. Over time the
adaptive learning process will fully update transmission operation to its
optimum shift feel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Tire upgrades
-Wanting to increase my ground clearance I'm aware of @ least 2 options on the MM: Tires and suspension
-Tires: I didn't want to go TOO big and cause a huge drop in MPG and performance as this my daily driver, or rubbing issues on the front struts, fender liners, etc. I found a deal on some Hankook Dynapro AT2 RF11 235/75R16. Had them mounted+balanced on the stock wheels. The tires worked well on a recent 600+ mile RT. Tire noise seemed less and had less wandering/tramlining than the HT-based tires I removed. Snow/dirt/mud traction hasn't been tested, but these are 'snow rated' with the 3-peak mountain snowflake (3PMSF) symbol. Will see how that works out as the last set of Cooper AT3s (on another SUV) were not great.
-Suspension: See below.


Tangent: I have the stock (?) Mariner, non-electric seats (only front/back/lumbar/recline adjustable) and after the 600 miles I'd say the seats are funcitonal/acceptable. I was planning on finding some electric/power-adjustable seats from the local Salvage/wrecking/Used parts yard, but may be...these are fine. That's a first as I've had Subarus and Toyotas that I'd swapped seats for comfort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Trailer hitch and Wiring harness June 2022
- Found a decently priced (but no name) hitch thru Amazon that tucks up pretty tight to the rear bumper w/out cutting. Easy enough install. When I did this on my '02 (?) I had to remove the center tow hook, IIRC.
Pros:
  • Good $
  • Sturdy (I hope)
  • Tucks up without cutting bumper, etc.
  • No drilling

Cons:
-Had to force it to fit. Slightly too wide to fit between the mounting frame rails. Poorly designed or damaged in shipping.
-Missing hardware. Sent an extra Spacer Block instead of a Nut.>>>Hardware store visit in my future>> Got the nut and installed.

Wiring harness
-This was a convoluted process, since this MM was 'partially' wired for the harness. There's a pigtail @ the back driver's side connected up under the bumper and easy to access. So, I could use this to get me a 4-plug connector to my utility trailer, plug-n-play (I initially thought): Reese Towpower 78070 Replacement OEM Tow Package Wiring Harness
-BUT that's only part of the challenge as I found out on the Amazon reviews, I needed these 3 relays - installed in the fuse panel under the hood: Automotive Purpose Relays 303-1AH-C-R1-U01-12VDC SPNO 20A 12VDC
-AND I read on the etrailer site that I also needed TWO more fuses in the same fuse panel, 8 & 14, which I had in my stash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Backup Camera install
-The Ousim A8 Pro stereo / head unit (HU) I bought earlier included a basic Backup Cam that I finally got around to installing.
Camera accessory Automotive lighting Toy Automotive wheel system Headlamp

- I mounted it above the license place, but off-center to avoid the rear hatch release button. Drilled a hole about middle of the license plate area to run the power and reverse signal wires. Used a rubber grommet and RTV to seal it.
-The wiring that came with the cam was barely long enough to reach the front where it connects to the HU. And I had to extend the wiring that powers the camera from the reverse light. I tapped the wiring harness on the INside of the cabin, behind the pass. side rear access panel. The Green was the 12v and Black was the Ground for the reverse light that I'd found on another site/YT video.Ran it up thru the body and out the body's rubber grommet, but didn't want to mess with fishing it thru the actual hatch so it's 'exposed' on the inside of the the hatch covered by black duct tape, before it's covered by the rear hatch's cover.
-Ran the long wire cable up the passenger side w/out much grief, behind the smallish glovebox (but easy to remove), to the back of the HU. Tapped the 'Back' (aka Reverse) signal wire and plugged in the RCA plug for the camera.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
Front and rear lift kit - installed 2" strut spacers on front and 'rubbershox' coil spacers on the rear.

EDIT: Removed it all - front and back

- Noticed I had a -more- severe shudder/shake/vibration in the front end after install....I noticed a little bit before but the lift exacerbated it. So, I thought it was a CV axle going bad and after replacing the front left, it was better - for a day - and then came back. So, I pulled the front and rear spring spacers. And the issue is gone.

Original:
-2" 'Street rays'(?) front kit installed. These are super easy to install. Remove struts, install these on top of existing strut (matching alignment marks on top of strut), and bolt back in.
--Notes: I moved the ABS line as the bottom spring perch of the strut seemed too close for comfort on the INside of the wheel well where the ABS line normally goes. There are a couple of access (?) holes near the ABS line that I used zip-ties to secure it. And removed the bracket that attaches the ABS line to the strut body to allow it more range of motion. I zip-tied the line to the same spot to secure it. The sway bar link needed to be reconnected with the front wheel jacked up to roughly 'ride height' to account for the increased strut distance, but can be reused.

Azure Font Rim Automotive exterior Gadget

Automotive lighting Automotive tire Bumper Motor vehicle Rolling


- Roughly 1.5" 'RubberShox', Size B+, rear coil spring spacers installed. These are easy enough to install: Jack up the rear, remove tire, spray WD-40, etc. on spacers, insert between spring coils, secure with Zip-ties, reinstall tire and lower back to ground. These DID NOT lift the MM much maybe 1/2"? But helped to level out the MM w/the front spacers.
--Notes: Do not use the bigger Size A as they wouldn't fit - too big. Also, these aren't really a 'lift' per se, but more for support. Ideally I'd install spacers on top of the springs or replacement springs that are stiffer (less sag) or longer to provide the lift. I've only found the H & R 51602 model springs that lift about 1", but must buy all 4.
Gas Auto part Camera accessory Metal Plastic

Automotive tire Tread Automotive wheel system Gas Auto part


-I have 235/75R16 tires, which are ~1" taller (larger diameter) than the stock 235/70R16 tires, so that's 1/2" of lift to start.
- For reference, before the lift I measured 32" on the front (ground to bottom of fender) and 33 3/4" on the back.
-After the lift I measured 35" on the front and 34" on the back.
-I haven't checked my actual increased Ground Clearance - yet.
-I'd probably install the lower 1.5" front kit next time, as the 2" is maxing out the front struts' fitment - where it attaches to the front knuckle/spindle, and may be putting added stress on the CV Axle (see next post). If I need more than that, I need a different vehicle, not more lift. :)
-Pics of the final result>> Instead of being 'nose down', it has more level if not 'nose up' now (still need to aim headlights). Drives normally.
Car Land vehicle Wheel Vehicle Tire
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
CV Axle - diagnosis and replacement
-Prior to the lift install, I've had a shudder/vibration when accelerating, from the left front for the last month or so. Once I installed the lift, it got more pronounced as the CV axles are now more angled. My prior experience with a bad CV is clicking when turning or other noises, but the MM didn't exhibit those symptoms. I 'hoped' it was the CV, as I read up online and it could be the drive shaft, PTU (ptoo-ie!), transmission, etc. so CV was the least trouble and cost to replace.
-Easier to install than the many Subaru CV's I replaced over the years (they have a roll-pin that must be removed/reinstalled), BUT I didn't account for the ATF fluid coming out (even though I watched a couple of videos online), so I had a mess to clean up and add ATF back into the transmission > Live and Learn.
-I bought a 'new' vs remanufactured axle from our local NAPA auto parts. I've had better luck w/their new ones than others.
Engineering Auto part Composite material Event Tool
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Dash Cam Install
-I've had a dash cam in my last 3 vehicles and just moved it from one to another. I usually plugged the USB A end into either a spare port on the back of the HU/stereo or added an extra USB port under the dash/near the HU. With this MM I tried to tap into the overhead console. There were two different plugs/connectors for the lights and sunroof controller, and I found an ignition-switched 12v, but for reasons I don't understand it wouldn't turn on the cam. It showed 12+V, but whatever. So, I ran a hot wire from the 'spare' #33 fuse using a ' Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter ' on the panel near the passenger's left foot. The passenger's side A-pillar cover came off easily and wasn't too hard to fish it above the headliner. I put the USB converter above the overhead console, and ran a short USB A to USB micro to the cam.
Gadget Font Adapter Peripheral Cable
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 · (Edited)
Rear Cargo Storage
-My MM didn't come with the optional storage cubby in the rear cargo hold, plus I have more 'stuff' than it would hold, so just upgrading to the OEM version wasn't going to work.
-I took some left over Trex decking and built a simple box and used some right-angle anchors to keep it anchored to the floor. I cut up an extra piece of particle/fiber/MDF? board, with a hinge to cover it and keep it accessible. I added a strap from a past Subaru to hold it open - using the rear upper LATCH anchor. Some old carpet works to muffle rattling noises.
-I still need to lock-down the cover piece somehow - without it being permanent - so I can securely transport items with ratchet straps, etc. The rear cargo area has 0 spots (edit: unless I use the rear seats head rest posts) to connect a strap to, which is both frustrating and bewildering. WHATUPFORD? I'll likely reuse the existing/original mount points for the original rear cargo piece I removed.
Edit: I saw this on another Escape site, and copied the idea for tie downs. I bought some similar styled tie downs at the local HW store, drilled holes in the metal under the rear plastic cargo sill (?), and cut out the plastic.
Vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design

Hood Car Motor vehicle Trunk Automotive lighting

Hood Trunk Automotive exterior Vehicle door Vehicle

Car Vehicle Motor vehicle Automotive lighting Automotive tire

With the OEM mat and an extra rubber pad I had in my collection.
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Axle Seal (not) Fun
  • I noticed the left front axle seal was showing a slight leak. Not surprised as I'd replaced the CV axle - see above - and although careful, probably messed up that outer seal (I thought).
  • I bought just the seal (not a Ford/Motorcraft part) locally and installed it w/out too much grief, but that just led to a bigger leak.
  • For the 2nd try, after reading up on replacing the outer seal and the inner bushing, I bought the 'kit' on Amzn:
Product Camera accessory Font Audio equipment Auto part

  • I bought a slide-hammer tool with and expandable end to remove the bushing, as I called around and none of the local auto parts store rented the Ford removal tool. It didn't fit - too small - so I got 'creative' and grabbed a close-quarter/mini hacksaw. I carefully sawed thru the bottom of the bushing until it was loose enough to remove - which was 99.9% of the way thru it.The old bushing was definitely rough looking- lots of wear.
  • I used some fine sand paper to smooth out the area from the removed bushing, flushed the area with some ATF I added from the dipstick, reinstalled the replacement with some locktite (per an YT video) on its outside and used this seal <bushing> installer I also bought from Amzn:
Blue Font Gas Technology Electric blue

  • Installed the seal....and then got 'Murphyed' again.
  • The CV parts above- Stub axle and boot- wouldn't work with the replacement axle I'd installed - used a different boot style. I ended up using that same fine sand paper to smooth the existing axle's surface that contacts the bushing.
  • CAREFULLY inserted the axle and reinstalled the rest of it.
  • Topped off the ATF fluid and So Far So Good - no leak.
 
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