[joshescape72]

Well I gave it a shot (changed out the battery)...still doing it. Its very random...I just can't pin point a time were it will always do it. Switched out the battery it did it a little...let it run a bit...shut it off started it up again...fired right up...did that a couple times no problem...waited 5 mins tried again...cranked, cranked, cranked, and cranked...always starts and there just seems to be no rhyme or reason why it does it or doesn't do it.

 

[detox8907]

That's odd. Sorry to hear the battery didn't work. When I had it changed, I did it at the dealer. They diagnose the problem for 109 but if you get it fixed there they don't charge you the 109 battery was about 170 installed so I didn't think it was too bad. They diagnosed and fixed it but it could have been something else, I just risked it because I wanted to know what was wrong from them before I started swapping parts.

 

[Jeff88]

Have you cleaned the battery posts and cable clamps? Even if they look clean, you should get a wire battery brush and clean the posts and clamps. I had an issue where the clamps and posts looked clean, but I continued to have problems until I got the wire brush.

Are the clamps out of round? Even though they may look round, they may have come out of round, causing an incomplete connection. This is especially true if you keep getting battery acid buildup. If possible, unscrew the battery leads and replace them with new ones.

You could also have bad starter contacts.

 

[gregjo1948]

I had a Jeep that acted like this and the delay in starting was directly caused by the fuel pump. The pump was fine but, the computer wasn't telling the pump to run as it should. If you can hear the pump run from the drivers seat, just turn on the ignition and see if it runs immediatly. You may need another person to help listen near the gas tank for the pump. Try this when there is most likely to be a long cranking episode. I'm sorry to say, it turned out that I had to replace the computer. Not too bad--$90.00 used at salvage yard-- be sure if you replace your computer, get exactly the same number. Differant numbers for the same model/year have differant qualities. gregjo1948

 

[tribute-03]

I have the EXACT same problem with my 2003 Tribute LX V-6 with 158k miles, started about 6-8 months ago.

Battery was brand-new in December of 2012, and I'm sure it's not the battery, because the engine cranks at full speed, it just doesn't catch for 5-10 seconds if it has been run 'recently'.

I know this sounds stupid, but I don't remember where I heard/saw it, but I think another problem area that could cause this is the IAC valve...as it ages, if it gums up, it causes hard starting...

I'm not willing to put the time or money into figuring mine out, if the vehicle dies its gone. Spent too much on it...

 

[joshescape72]

Have you cleaned the battery posts and cable clamps? Even if they look clean, you should get a wire battery brush and clean the posts and clamps. I had an issue where the clamps and posts looked clean, but I continued to have problems until I got the wire brush.

Are the clamps out of round? Even though they may look round, they may have come out of round, causing an incomplete connection. This is especially true if you keep getting battery acid buildup. If possible, unscrew the battery leads and replace them with new ones.

You could also have bad starter contacts.

They did look ok but I did not wire brush them or anything like that...I will give that a shot too...not going to hurt

 

[joshescape72]

I have the EXACT same problem with my 2003 Tribute LX V-6 with 158k miles, started about 6-8 months ago.

Battery was brand-new in December of 2012, and I'm sure it's not the battery, because the engine cranks at full speed, it just doesn't catch for 5-10 seconds if it has been run 'recently'.

I know this sounds stupid, but I don't remember where I heard/saw it, but I think another problem area that could cause this is the IAC valve...as it ages, if it gums up, it causes hard starting...

I'm not willing to put the time or money into figuring mine out, if the vehicle dies its gone. Spent too much on it...

What is an IAC Valve?

 

[joshescape72]

I had a Jeep that acted like this and the delay in starting was directly caused by the fuel pump. The pump was fine but, the computer wasn't telling the pump to run as it should. If you can hear the pump run from the drivers seat, just turn on the ignition and see if it runs immediatly. You may need another person to help listen near the gas tank for the pump. Try this when there is most likely to be a long cranking episode. I'm sorry to say, it turned out that I had to replace the computer. Not too bad--$90.00 used at salvage yard-- be sure if you replace your computer, get exactly the same number. Differant numbers for the same model/year have differant qualities. gregjo1948

I do hear the pump....but I am starting to think it may be that...running out of things it could be...

 

[trueblue05]

Ok, I have been viewing this thread from tapatalk as a non member waiting for someone to tell you what it is but no one's got it yet.

It is your Idle Air Control Valve, or IAC.

This is a common problem on Escapes, as well as other fords (my 500, for instance), because Ford in their great wisdom decided to vent the PCV line in the intake in front of the throttle body, which contains the IAC.

Your IAC is gummed up from oil residue and requires a cleaning or replacement, usually a good cleaning with throttle body cleaner will do. There are how to's on YouTube and on here to help you.

This fixed my exact same problem with my escape and it should work for yours.

Good luck.

 

[joshescape72]

Ok, I have been viewing this thread from tapatalk as a non member waiting for someone to tell you what it is but no one's got it yet.

It is your Idle Air Control Valve, or IAC.

This is a common problem on Escapes, as well as other fords (my 500, for instance), because Ford in their great wisdom decided to vent the PCV line in the intake in front of the throttle body, which contains the IAC.

Your IAC is gummed up from oil residue and requires a cleaning or replacement, usually a good cleaning with throttle body cleaner will do. There are how to's on YouTube and on here to help you.

This fixed my exact same problem with my escape and it should work for yours.

Good luck.

Thank you I will give it a shot. Thanks for the explanation

 

[joshescape72]

Could someone please take a PIC of the IAC so I know for sure where it is (I have a 2010). I am pretty sure I know where it is but I want to be 100% sure. I have cleaned my throttle body and it seems to have helped (its not cranking as long now) so if I can clean or replace the IAC maybe it will fix the issue.

Thanks in advance

 

[JBOURNE554]

Strange I just got my 2010 Ford Escape XLT with 107k on it back from the dealership after I had a 5amp fuse blow that controls the PCM and the car would not crank or anything. They found it was a fuse/replaced it etc. and then told me that I should have them check the long crank they discovered. I never had this before and did not even know why it started to do this after they had the vehicle. I told them to find it and I never had that problem before. The long crank would happen everytime I try to start the vehicle and they load tested the battery, checked everything else that could cause this and then said it may be a problem the PCM in which I would have to replace. I said hell no I will deal with damn long crank then. So far been driving ok but long crank getting on my nerves. So far its a mystery I cannot figure out and basically the dealership didnt either thats why they went for the PCM being the culprit. So any suggestions out there yet what causes this. Good battery, fuel system, alternator, starter, all check out ok. The biggest mystery of all is why that 5 am fuse blew and now the long crank.

 

[nimar]

Hello all,

I'm new here and this is an old post, I didn't see a resolution? did I miss that?

I too have a 2010 XLT 3.0 V6 w/112k. the extended crank, then start - just started this last week.

I have cleaned the MAF sensor, throttle body, reset the PCM, warmed up, drove 10 mi to relearn and issue still persists.

one question, on a 2010, is there an IAC? or all the idle/throttle duties handled by the throttle body assembly (which seems correct). If there is an IAC valve, where would it be located since I can't seem to find anything other than valve just past the throttle body which has a cast iron bottom and a tube running into the intake.

Thank you

-n

 

[bangster]

2009 and newer no longer has an IAC, it is all controlled by the TBW (throttle by wire) Drive by Wire system.

 

[peelman]

First thing in order would be a fuel pressure test. I believe the spec for a functioning FP is 55 psi.

 

[nimar]

hello,

thank you!

i did/do suspect that as well.
i cycled the ignition key four times or so (hear the fuel pump run) and no diff???

would have thought that may assist??

-N

 

[peelman]

were you able to pull any DTC codes?
You should check fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge.

 

[bangster]

I am not sure which procedure is used, some cars use one, some use another. Crown Vics have this procedure for TBW system, I think this is more for calibration of the throttle "pedal" and not the Throttle Body:

Turn your key to the ON position (not just ACC), wait for the various dash warning lights to go out but do NOT start the car
Press your throttle all the way down in one smooth motion (just do it at a normal speed (take about 2-3 seconds to hit bottom))
Let it up, as soon as you hit the bottom
Turn off your ignition and wait 3-4 seconds
Start the engine up normally and drive. May have to repeat 3 times for the Computer Training to complete

while others have:

make sure all accessories are off (AC, blower motor, auto lamp, etc)
disconnect negative cable from battery
instead of waiting 10/15 minutes, take a wire/jumper from positive cable/battery to the negative cable, not the battery terminal, and leave it for a couple minutes
remove jumper, and put negative cable back on
turn key to on/run position (don't start it)
let the gauges go through their diag (I think at this point the throttle body actually does a sweep from closed to open to closed)
start it up and let it idle for 5-10 minutes, to get up to temp
it will then have the base cold and warm idle trim, and can then work on all the rest as you drive it

 

[nimar]

hello,

thank you all.

did follow the re-learn and use the jumpers as stated. no foot on throttle method. just the latter.
the length of time to crank (since re-learn) has shortened.
am i correct in stating that there is no IAC valve on this 2010 and all is handled by the throttle body??

I have not confirmed fuel pressure as requested and will do so in a day or two. (waiting on arrival of gauge).

thank you again.

regards

-N

 

[peelman]

Testing the fuel pressure in a 2010 3.0 should be the same as the 2011. You will require an adapter as there is not a conventional schrader valve port to test from unfortunately. Make sure to test on a cold engine, and relieve fuel pressure in the fuel rail before connecting the test gauge.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HHIQ0C/_e ... VT9U&psc=0

** were you able to retrieve trouble codes?