[daggerNC]

OK, for the prelude, a few months ago my wife's 2010 FEH Limited 2WD started throwing the C1029 code (Primary brakes circuit lower than Secondary brakes) but no braking issues. I've had NO luck resolving that. I've run thru (multiple times) the FORScan ABS procedures of clearing DTCs, running the ABS On Demand Self test, the ABS Reset, then ABS Service Bleed followed by a full brake system manual flush/bleed, followed by the ABS Multi-Calibration routine --> multiple times. No luck :-( LF pressure is 71.2 and RR pressure is 57.4 for the Primary channel, and the RF pressure is 54.1 and LR pressure is 50.6 for the Secondary which results in a delta of around 23% which exceeds the 10% threshold for C1029. With the FEH engine running, I get 1452+1438 (Secondary) and 643+643 (Primary) PSI readings.

This past weekend I went at it again with another round of ABS Self Test/Reset/Service Bleed and another full brake system bleed followed by Multi-Calibration, and NO changes in the four brake pressures! So I then ran the ABS Reset followed by Service Bleed followed by the Multi-Calibration routine which then threw the new error could not complete the routine and the new C1018:46-AB code = "Regenerative Braking - Calibration/Parameter Memory Failure". After that, the brakes barely work almost going to the floor, and the engine idling at 1700RPM and no charging of the battery....Can't drive the FEH anywhere now! I have tried many iterations of the Reset/Service Bleed/Multi-Calibration including multiple Multi-Calibration procedures in a row and I continue to immediately receive the C1018 code (this also includes Resetting/Clearing of all DTCs but it still immediately throws the C1018 code).

HELP Please!! I cannot find a way to "reset" the ABS system nor get the C1018 to go away/complete the Multi-Calibration routine now. Exhaustive searches of the Web don't provide any clear answers. Does anybody know how to reset the ABS system fully? I checked with Ford web site and downloaded the As Built modules file, and the numbers in the As Built match what are in the Forscan dump of my ABS (though the As Built only has 6 blocks and my module shows 7...) I even got a full License key for Forscan and tried re-writing the As Built values just in case, but no luck. Do I need a new ABS Control Module system ? I can only find a used one for $500 (new ones are out of stock and list for $2250 for both components !) All my brake lines look good, Master cylinder looks good/no leaks, tone rings all good.. Nothing I've done or read so far absolutely indicates a new ABS system is needed, but a mechanic friend I know says it could be the Master Cylinder due to the large circuit pressure delta's, but he's not sure. Unless I can get some help/guidance I may have to shell out some likely big bucks and have my vehicle towed to a shop.

Thanks in advance! David

 

[dwightbresemann]

Good morning. I feel your pain, I own a repair facility and hybrid braking systems are very sensitive to even the slightest of problems.

You must fix the C1029 code before addressing the C1018. You can not run the seft-test with C1029 stored in the memory. When you ran the self-test, you cleared all learned pressure and stroke values. The seft-test now will try to learn new values. The test was unable to run to completion, so no new values were learned, hence, no brakes.

Clearing all codes and running the self-test won't work if the module detects a problem other than C1018.

During bleeding, press the brake peddle slowly

Do not start the engine if possible. You may deplete the HV battery and open another can of worms.

Anytime the key is on, and running tests or scanning, you must have a charger on the 12 volt battery. Never, ever let the battery drop below 11.9 volts. Charge the battery overnight so the battery is good and strong.

Search Forscan forums for "hybrid brake bleeding".

A pressure bleeding is the best way to go. 30-50 psi is required. Expect to use over a gallon of brake fluid.

A Hail Mary pass would be to try a new master cylinder and re-bleed with a pressure bleeder. Slim chance, but it may solve the problem.

 

[dwightbresemann]

FORScan forum - Information

FORScan forum - Information

 

[daggerNC]

Hi dwight - appreciate the inputs! I did already scan thru all of those FORScan threads with the C1018 code in them - some good content in a couple but most are slightly different scenarios than mine. Yes, I have a 12V battery tender that I connect before running any of the service routines and good to reinforce the need for a fully charged 12V battery before running many of FORScan's test routines!

So I can clear the C1029:00-68 code, and then run the ABS Self Test routine and it finishes/passes at 100%, and no new code thrown. I get the C1029 DTC only when I press on the brakes with some force. However, I can not clear the (latest) C1018:46-AB code - it is now constantly present (and the IC lights illuminated for Traction Control/Check Brakes) no matter what I do. It threw the C1018 code when I was running the Multi-Calibration sequence (though I had run it successfully 3 or 4 times prior) which does require multiple sequences of pushing down the brake pedal so I'm hoping it's seeing/not liking the large pressure differences between the Secondary brake circuit versus the Primary circuit?

So, if I need to fix the C1029 issue (brake pressure differential) first, then I'm hoping it is the Master Cylinder that is at fault. I just ordered a new Motorcraft replacement unit, so fingers crossed. I'm assuming that if this doesn't correct it then it "must" be the ABS-HCU unit??

Cheers - David

 

[daggerNC]

All - I have installed a new Ford Master Cylinder after bench bleeding it. I have also done a manual bleed of the two rear brake lines (so far) with an assistant slowly pumping the brake pedal 50 times each line - no stream of air bubbles observed... Tried the brake pedal after this and it is (still) very soft and almost goes to the floor (engine and ignition off). So far no change.

Here are my new questions:
1- What does a "normal" brake pedal on a 2009-2012 FEH feel like? Should the brake pedal be firm after a couple of inches (FEH have an air gap in the brake pedal travel for regenerative brake operation before the master cylinder push rod is engaged for hydraulic activation) with engine off? What does it feel like for others with engine on? Note - my FEH has never seemed to have a "firm" pedal unlike other cars I've owned like a Mini Cooper and Ford Explorer, etc...
2- Should I continue with manual bleeding of the two front brake lines, or is this a waste of time? I saw a copy of a 2009 FEH service manual that stated manual bleeding is only recommended for non-hybrids. Due to complexity of hybrid brake system a pressure bleeder must be used. I have a Power Bleeder unit on order and should be here later this week, but hate not doing anything.
3- According to the 2009 manual procedure I saw, IIRC is says do a power bleed first, then service tool ABS Service Bleed, then another power bleed, then run the Multi-Calibration service process. Can anyone confirm this is correct for my 2010?
4- Note - I have FORScan and have run the ABS Service Bleed process at least 4 or 5 times (prior to the new Master Cylinder) and it completes everytime. However, can anyone confirm that these 2008-2012 Gen2 FEH's do NOT have the fully automated service ABS Bleed process that requires you to open a brake bleeder valve as instructed? Mine only runs the process with lots of ABS valve noises but never asks me to open any bleeder valves (maybe this is only on newer vehicles)?
5- What should be my final FORScan process: ABS Reset followed by ABS Service Bleed followed by Multi-Calibration? or ....?
6- What should I do if after all this/new master cylinder R&R I still get an unequal Secondary brake circuit is higher than Primary brake circuit (code C1029)? Does that then definitively say my ABS HCU/Pump unit is toast and I need to try to find a working used unit and go thru all this again? Or throw in the towel plus Visa card and tow it to a Ford Dealer? Or donate the vehicle to the Grand Tour and watch them blow it up!?

 

[dwightbresemann]

You will need to pressure bleed the system. 30-50 psi. You can rig on together or buy an inexpensive one on eBay. You can tap in a fitting to the master cylinder cap to use with a pressure bleeder. Read one of the notes in the instructions posted.

Buy a cheap pressure bleeder on eBay or Amazon capable of 50 psi. You also need at least a gallon of brake fluid.

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www.ebay.com

 

[daggerNC]

Thanks Dwight. I have a Power Bleeder unit that I'm waiting on a new o-ring for the cap adapter to fit the Escape. Appreciate the attachments for the brake bleeding process - it looks like there are more pages that apply to the Hybrid vehicles - can you post those/send me a link? Cheers - David

 

[dwightbresemann]

I sent all parts which mentioned hybrid. It may look like there was more, but sadly, no.

Tip, when pressure bleeding, do not touch the brake peddle, just open the bleeder.

 

[dwightbresemann]

Some more info,

https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=ford+escape+hybrid+brake+bleeding+procedure

 

[daggerNC]

Thanks again Dwight. New o-ring just arrived - hopefully will be able to get to the pressure bleeding tomorrow (I need to buy another gallon of Dot 3). What's interesting in the service manual instructions is that it was the Multi-calibration procedure that threw the error + C1018:46 code. I try clearing it, but it won't clear (and there are no other codes present except the standard P1000).

 

[daggerNC]

Why am I jinxed?? New gasket came in for Power Bleeder unit yesterday and it fits the FEH master cylinder! So, pour a couple of quarts of DOT 3 into the cylinder, hooked it up and did the 10 lbs pressure to check for any leaks for 5 minutes. Went to the RR brake to set it up for the initial bleed, and then I hear this hissing and spitting....go to engine compartment and the pressure hose at the MC cap split open and brake fluid going everywhere! What a mess. Cleaned up best I could, drove to 2 auto parts stores for new clear hose, no luck but Home Depot had some vinyl tubing so picked that up and called it a day and had a few Gin & Tonics to ease the pain Today I cleaned up all the old/brittle hose on the pressure bleeder and cut and installed new tubing. Really had to crank on the stainless steel hose clamps to get them to seal but the fitting for the cap line never sealed 100%...again WTH? But good enough so I pumped it up to about 28 lbs (gauge goes to 30 lbs which I know the Ford factory service procedure says 30 to 50 lbs..) and bled the RR - no problem, then LR - nothing noticeable, and then the RF caliper - about 5 seconds into the bleeding I start seeing and hearing a BUNCH of tiny air bubbles going thru the line such that I thought MC ran dry or something, but it all looked good, and then continued the bleed and then it cleared out like the rear lines! LF bleed saw nothing out of the ordinary. So MAYBE there was a bunch of trapped air in the RF system (ABS to caliper line) that the multiple manual bleeds missed???

Can't do step two which is the FORScan ABS Service Bleed because I decided to send my instrument cluster into a repair shop to put new led backlights in, and of course I get a message from Fedex there is a delay and won't get it till tomorrow....grrr. Par for the course it seems. So, I have a small glimmer of hope the power bleed of the RF line actually corrected the Primary system low pressure/soft brake issue and I hope that will enable clearing the C1018 code once I can run a new Multi-Calibration routine. I hates brakes..

 

[dwightbresemann]

Gosh, now I feel bad. I was going to mention, as a tip, to wrap everything with a towel and bungi cord. When using a pressure bleeder, I set the machine up first, with connection to the master cylinder. No pressure. All 4 wheels removed. I attach 4 clear vinyl hose to all four bleeders, with the other end of hoses in jars. I open all four bleeders and slowly open the pressure on my bleeding machine. If there is an ABS bleed function on the scanner, I start running it. I slowly ramp up the pressure to 30 psi while closing off the bleeders in proper order. Last, I check again by opening each bleeder one at a time in proper order for my final check.

All hybrids are very difficult to bleed, and this method has worked well in my shop.

Water with a little soap is excellent for removing brake fluid.

Keep us posted and good luck.

 

[daggerNC]

Thanks Dwight. Interestingly, the 2010 Ford Escape Hybrid ABS Bleed function says to NOT open the bleeder screws during the process (I have seen other videos including Fords of different years that do have the opening of bleeders as part of the ABS Bleed function process...). My bad luck was the hoses to my Power Bleeder had deteriorated and burst only after applying pressure to the system. My Inst. Cluster comes back tomorrow (I hope!) so either I'll do the ABS Service Bleed plus another round of pressure bleeding either tomorrow or Sunday and will post my update then ..

 

[dwightbresemann]

Correct about not opening the bleeders during the ABS clearing function. What Ford should have said, "it's not necessary", but won't hurt. Example. Pour some brake fluid in a glass jar. Cap it and shake real good. Now you should have a lot of bubbles mix in the fluid. Now pressurize the jar to 50 psi, and the bubbles disappeared. We both know the bubbles are not gone, just in solution.

Running the ABS pump churns the fluid, creating bubbles. I use the pressure bleeder to push the fluid out under force, not to pressurize it.

 

[Jay2TheRescue]

How old is your 12v battery? These batteries can test "good" and still not be up to par for the FEH. Any fluctuation in voltages, and the brakes and other systems can act up. Had a similar issue on mine years ago. I cleaned and tightened the 12v battery terminals and all was fine after that. If the date code on your battery is more than 36 months old, I'd replace it.

 

[daggerNC]

Hi Jay - battery is a new Motorcraft installed 7 months ago. And yes - I was having other "odd" events just prior to the battery going dead!

 

[daggerNC]

Trying not to yell or cry too much.... My repaired cluster didn't show Friday, then not on Saturday and now Fedex status shows "Pending"....WTH does that mean? Called their customer service who read back the status to me, created a case # and literally said have a nice day....

 

[daggerNC]

Happy to say a Fedex truck dropped off my cluster!! So now to continue with the brake bleeding today..

 

[dwightbresemann]

You don't need to achieve the "perfect bleed". A good bleed with the pressure bleeder will be fine. Over time, the hydraulic system will naturally bleed itself of any remaining air.

Warn, or hot fluid will release any bubbles easier.

Tapping the ABS unit and calipers while bleeding will help dislodge any air pockets.

Thanks for the update and keep us posted.

 

[daggerNC]

No joy. Did the service ABS Bleed routine which completed (as before). Then did step 3 which is another pressure bleed. All four lines/bleeds went very smoothly with no bubbles/air in any of the lines. Then ran the service Multi-Calibration routine, and it is still failing... FORScan DTC run now shows an additional DTC besides the main C1018:46-AB one -- C1014:07-68 which is Brake System Total Balance code, with subcode = Mechanical Failure. WTH is that?? Ran the ABS Self Service routine, and that comes back with no errors. Clear all the DTCs and then as before it comes back up with just the C1018 DTC. Ran the Multi-Calibration again, same failure at around 6% through. So I did ANOTHER power bleed - all went fine. Cleared the DTCs, and it still comes back with the C1018 code. Ran the ABS Service Bleed (successful) followed by the Multi-Calibration routine, and fails at 6 - 7%. Generates the two codes above (C1018 and C1014). Clear them, Reset ABS which is successful, then ABS Service Bleed followed by Multi-Calibration, which continues to fail around 6%. One slightly different brake pedal feel is during the ABS Bleed, before the new Ford Motorcraft master cylinder the brake pedal would travel about 90% but then stop and then it would drop to the floor during the ABS Service routine. Now the pedal virtually goes to the floor/100% travel. After multiple rounds of the above I do feel a bit more pressure in the pedal now.... Does anybody have an FEH and what does your brake pedal do when you step on it without it running?

I don't know what to do next.....