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Hey guys, I have a 2010 limited with factory subwoofer, no navigation. I've been searching all the A/V topics on this site for days. The pin-out diagrams were particularly helpful, but all of the info overall is a bit overwhelming. Maybe you guys can lend me some input?

I have a 2010 Limited, no navigation. I've been wanting to upgrade the subwoofer to increase the low-end sound in the vehicle... I read a lot of info about just replacing the subwoofer in the factory enclosure, but i fear that the factory amplifier really isnt powerful enough to handle much of anything. So what i'm looking to do is just add a 2 channel amplifier and a subwoofer in a box.

I have a ton of experience with wiring, complete set-ups, fabrication, blah blah blah, so please dont hesitate to get technical with me. What i want to know, from your guys experience with this truck, is if i can pick up the signal for the line-out converter from where the factory amp is plugged in, or if i should grab it from the front or rear speakers. The factory sub is dual voice coil.

Thank you guys so much for your help.

PS- I just created this account, this is my first post. Once i get around to it, I will post some pictures of my truck, or create a car domain site, either way. I am a volunteer fire fighter so naturally i've already put some emergency lighting in the truck. I am also in the process of mocking up my iPad 2 in my truck.
 

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Rob Avitabile said:
Hey guys, I have a 2010 limited with factory subwoofer, no navigation. I've been searching all the A/V topics on this site for days. The pin-out diagrams were particularly helpful, but all of the info overall is a bit overwhelming. Maybe you guys can lend me some input?

I have a 2010 Limited, no navigation. I've been wanting to upgrade the subwoofer to increase the low-end sound in the vehicle... I read a lot of info about just replacing the subwoofer in the factory enclosure, but i fear that the factory amplifier really isnt powerful enough to handle much of anything. So what i'm looking to do is just add a 2 channel amplifier and a subwoofer in a box.

I have a ton of experience with wiring, complete set-ups, fabrication, blah blah blah, so please dont hesitate to get technical with me. What i want to know, from your guys experience with this truck, is if i can pick up the signal for the line-out converter from where the factory amp is plugged in, or if i should grab it from the front or rear speakers. The factory sub is dual voice coil.

Thank you guys so much for your help.

PS- I just created this account, this is my first post. Once i get around to it, I will post some pictures of my truck, or create a car domain site, either way. I am a volunteer fire fighter so naturally i've already put some emergency lighting in the truck. I am also in the process of mocking up my iPad 2 in my truck.
take a peek at my threads about it, and I also have a leftover twin 12" shallow subwoofer box I built a while back if you want it. Most of my builds centered around the false floor concept, and I assure you with the right equipment it can be done well in the 2008+ models (the ones without a spare tire on the inside!) Or I can help you design one of your own to fiberglass if you want. My box might be a bit overkill for you.

For the money, might as well get a 4ch (same cost typically) and power up those fronts a bit.
 

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Rob Avitabile said:
Thanks for the quick reply fourthmeal... Do you have any experience with the factory subwoofer connector in the rear? I'd like to pick up the signal from there if i can.
It is simple shielded pre-out signal, you can tap into it if you want. I tapped into it at the front end, but remember that it may need to be line-boosted to get the right voltage to an aftermarket amp. MAYBE. Might also want to run a bass restoration DSP, because that sub is not getting a full sub out signal. It is severely EQ'd.
 

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Rob Avitabile said:
For anyone that is interested, PAC-Audio makes a nice plug-n-play adapter for behind the head unit. I think i am probably going to go this route.

http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails ... egoryID=28

Basically it is a line-out converter that plugs in-line with the factory harness behind the head unit. Simple, clean, and no taping into anything.
That looks like the perfect solution for signal and for your remote turn on. Simple to install also.

The more I think about it, the more I want to build a new location for my sub. I am thinking of doing a project to make a sub location on the left side of the cargo area - similar to the MTX boxes available for the earlier Escapes. It has a nice recessed area and I can make it fit under the cargo cover. Something still removable (if needed) but out of the way.



Something like that but cleaner, carpeted and in the latest cargo configuration.
 

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Bring on the fiberglass! It should be completely do-able.

sinister mob said:
Rob Avitabile said:
For anyone that is interested, PAC-Audio makes a nice plug-n-play adapter for behind the head unit. I think i am probably going to go this route.

http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails ... egoryID=28

Basically it is a line-out converter that plugs in-line with the factory harness behind the head unit. Simple, clean, and no taping into anything.
That looks like the perfect solution for signal and for your remote turn on. Simple to install also.

The more I think about it, the more I want to build a new location for my sub. I am thinking of doing a project to make a sub location on the left side of the cargo area - similar to the MTX boxes available for the earlier Escapes. It has a nice recessed area and I can make it fit under the cargo cover. Something still removable (if needed) but out of the way.



Something like that but cleaner, carpeted and in the latest cargo configuration.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
sinister mob said:
Rob Avitabile said:
For anyone that is interested, PAC-Audio makes a nice plug-n-play adapter for behind the head unit. I think i am probably going to go this route.

http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails ... egoryID=28

Basically it is a line-out converter that plugs in-line with the factory harness behind the head unit. Simple, clean, and no taping into anything.
That looks like the perfect solution for signal and for your remote turn on. Simple to install also.

The more I think about it, the more I want to build a new location for my sub. I am thinking of doing a project to make a sub location on the left side of the cargo area - similar to the MTX boxes available for the earlier Escapes. It has a nice recessed area and I can make it fit under the cargo cover. Something still removable (if needed) but out of the way.



Something like that but cleaner, carpeted and in the latest cargo configuration.
I happen to have a line out converter, so i'm going to use that and not have to spend the money. But the PAC unit is perfect for someone who is unsure of what they're doing, or if someone just doesnt want to tap any of the factory wiring.

I'de like to see that when its done. I think its a pretty good idea, and like fourthmeal said, do-able. Good luck with that.

On a side-note: For anyone that is interested on iPad integration into the dash... I made an attempt at building a "cradle" for the iPad for my dash, much like the one that soundmancaraudio.com did in a new F-150. It actually came out very very neat and clean, but i couldnt sink it into the center stack like they did, because i couldnt remove the factory radio, since i do not have an aftermarket radio to connect the iPad to. I mounted it to the dash and everything worked fine, but it just didnt look factory, and i couldnt deal with looking at it. It looked out of place. I'll throw up some pics of the process though if anyone is interested.

What i wound up doing was buying a mount from ipadholdr.com, and its coming tomorrow. Check out the sites if you havent already.
 

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Good point night hawk. I'm in your situation. I have a 2011 escape with factory subwoofer. I'm not sure if it's best to grab the fronts since the bass may be eq'd from the factory head unit.

It seems like if you are only interested in adding an amp for bass your best bet is just tapping into the rear subwoofer signals, adding something like a audio control lc2i and calling it a day. The audio control will boost the output voltage to your subwoofer and prevent the bass roll off as you crank the volume.
 

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Rob Avitabile said:
For anyone that is interested, PAC-Audio makes a nice plug-n-play adapter for behind the head unit. I think i am probably going to go this route.

http://www.pac-audio.com/productDetails ... egoryID=28

Basically it is a line-out converter that plugs in-line with the factory harness behind the head unit. Simple, clean, and no taping into anything.
I was considering that PAC as well but I dont think it outputs a very good subwoofer level signal. I think its mainly for amplifying the 4 door speakers. Can anyone confirm? If it is also for sub I will be picking that up ASAP because its exactly what I need. If it also removes subwoofer frequencies from the door speakers and that would be even better since the door speakers dont reproduce those sounds very well at all compared to a sub

I just bought the PAC adapter so I will let people know how well it sounds for just adding a single sub.

Edit:
I used the PAC above in my 2011 Ford Escape and it works wonderfully. It is outputting a entire range of frequencies to my amp but I just adjusted the low pass (50 hz and up) and the ultra low pass (25 hz to 50 hz) to make sure my sub isnt hitting too high. I left the factory default gains on the PAC as well and just adjusted the gain on my amp. Sounds decent but with a little more tweaking of the amp it will be perfect.
 

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Just wondering... For the factory sub amp... Is the signal going into it high power or low power? Am I going to need a high to low convert and low pass cross over to install a factory sub/amp set up???
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