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Hi all,

New to the board and been lurking all week for some answers. Lot of kicka$$ builds in here for audio setups and major props to fourthmeal.

I'm getting a 2011 Ford Escape delivered with SYNC, CD/MP3, and Sync delivered as a corporate car. Sadly have to get rid of my jeep that I poured thousands of dollars and tons of hours of work into modding but this car seems pretty cool. No way I'll be able to stick completely stock on the audio though so wanted to toss up a few questions:

Couple of ways I've thought about modding this. It's a lease and owned by HP so I don't want to invest too much time into custom mods but could anybody help with the following:

Possible to add sub-out and an amp for sub with stock head-unit?

Connect iPhone to stock head-unit (prefer to just use aux RCA input and control my phone from my phone)

Sub boxes.... I've search heavily on this and while I think the false floor looks best route I don't think I want to invest the time in that extensive of a mod since I'll only keep the car about a year or maybe 2 before they cycle out. I found the MTX Thunderform but seems that it may not fit a 2011? Can anybody confirm that or is it possible to squeeze it in with some mods? Also, saw the JL Audio Stealthbox. Any experience with that on here? I have one in my 350z and like it but not sure about fitment in the Escape.

Thanks majorly in advance for any help :thumb: I'll continue to browse through here for solutions too.
 

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Hey there,

I have my sub box from the last false floor design I did, something you could build up off of if you want. I'm selling this truck soon (damn 4cyl and weak trans scares me) so if its an option just let me know. Its just the box, I sold the subs to another member here. Other cheaper subs will work, they have to be shallow 12's, that's all.

That box and a 5ch amp would be pretty strong, and you can even find active 5ch amps like the SS Rubicon or similar. Installing tweets in the a-pillar would be probably the cheapest, given the low cost of replacement a-pillar panels which you could acquire before even starting your build. Deadening would be one of those things that's probably worth the investment (as it affects so much of the sound) but you will lose it when you give the car back. My opinion is that you could just do minimum deadening, just enough to keep the resonance down so you can enjoy the music, while the compromise to road noise will still be there. Finally, I would definitely replace the HU. You can certainly take the thing back out when you trade out, and you only lost the small cost of the dash kit and harnesses (which you can sell here.) Also there is a strong chance the same parts will fit another ford vehicle, given the technology is all standardized for the most part.

One of my best systems was in a leased vehicle. Thank goodness almost everything can come out. Deadening is just about the only thing you have to leave in place.
 

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You have to make a slight modification when installing the Stealthbox, which requires you to rip off the "cubby hole" cover on the driver side panel, and cut a small hole in the plastic behind it. When you take it out, you can glue the cover back on (hot glue gun should do the trick, or gorilla glue), but the small hole will remain. I suppose you could keep the plastic that you cut out, then put that back as well, leaving only the outline of the hole..

I have a stealthbox I would like to sell for $200 if you want to go that route. They are about $480 retail.
 

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The iPhone works like a charm with SYNC, perfect together.
 

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09Ltd said:
You have to make a slight modification when installing the Stealthbox, which requires you to rip off the "cubby hole" cover on the driver side panel, and cut a small hole in the plastic behind it. When you take it out, you can glue the cover back on (hot glue gun should do the trick, or gorilla glue), but the small hole will remain. I suppose you could keep the plastic that you cut out, then put that back as well, leaving only the outline of the hole..

I have a stealthbox I would like to sell for $200 if you want to go that route. They are about $480 retail.
You can probably pick up a grommet plug for a $1 at mcmaster-carr in a matching or complimentary color, which can look stock like a drain plug for that cubby.

BTW my double 12" shallow sub fiberglass box is for sale I SOLD MY TRIBUTE! LOL.
 

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09Ltd said:
fourthmeal said:
I SOLD MY TRIBUTE!
I hope you will stick around and post on your next project in the Xterra!
LOL, you wouldn't believe what I bought.

A Flex!
 

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fourthmeal said:
09Ltd said:
fourthmeal said:
I SOLD MY TRIBUTE!
I hope you will stick around and post on your next project in the Xterra!
LOL, you wouldn't believe what I bought.

A Flex!
Congrats on your new ride!!!! I really like that rig! :thumb: :thumb: :thumb: hope you stick around!!
 
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