[Rakerburn]

Hello,

I want to downsize from our 2008 Grand Caravan into a 2011 Escape (XLT 3.0L 4WD) as the van proved to be just to big and cumbersome for everyday use. However, my family and I are avid campers and I know that the Escape will not be big enough to carry our gear on its own, so we will definitely need a good rooftop carrier and perhaps a cargo carrier for the hitch.

I know the Escape will be perfect for everyday use, but I do have a few questions that I would like to pose to you experts before we make our purchase (I will also ask my salesman, but he is obviously biased):

1. The factory roof rack supports 100lbs...if I buy some better cross-rails from Thule/Yakima can I increase this number, or is it actually limited by the Escape's roof?

2. The factory hitch is 1.25" and I would prefer to get a 3rd party 2" hitch...are there any reasons why I should not be doing this?

3. We have 2 kids (3 & 6 yo) who will fit comfortably in the back with no problems, but we may want to squeeze a 3rd kid into the back from time-to-time...has anyone had any luck fitting 3 booster seats into the back safely?

I appreciate any answers you can provide, they will definitely make my decision easier!

 

[tang]

Hello and welcome! I can't answer #3... so I'll give my best at #1 and #2. Hopefully others will see this and answer where I can't. (Being only 22 going-on-23, I have yet to experience the baby seat thing.)

1. The factory roof rack supports 100lbs...if I buy some better cross-rails from Thule/Yakima can I increase this number, or is it actually limited by the Escape's roof?

I've stood on my Escape's roof before. I'm 200+ pounds (kind of a fatty), and I obviously didn't stand in the middle of the roof... but more along the stronger points, like feet along the roof rails. My best estimate is that it's limited by the crossbars. The standard bars are pretty tough. We have a couple members who opted for the Thule setup (and maybe a few with the Yakima) who would probably know better.... so to answer your question, I think it's limited by the crossbars. But... how often are you going to be putting stuff heavier than 100 pounds on top of your car? Just curious.

2. The factory hitch is 1.25" and I would prefer to get a 3rd party 2" hitch...are there any reasons why I should not be doing this?

You'd lose out on some rear ground clearance, but if you're not doing anything that would require it, then probably not. I can say that my OEM hitch might've saved me some extra trouble when I got low-speed rear-ended 2-3 months back by a Jeep Liberty because it kinda provides another crossbar in the rear. If you opt to get an Escape sans hitch package, you also don't get the wiring, but that's not a difficult modification to do later.

 

[gbrown69]

Hello,

I want to downsize from our 2008 Grand Caravan into a 2011 Escape (XLT 3.0L 4WD) as the van proved to be just to big and cumbersome for everyday use. However, my family and I are avid campers and I know that the Escape will not be big enough to carry our gear on its own, so we will definitely need a good rooftop carrier and perhaps a cargo carrier for the hitch.

I know the Escape will be perfect for everyday use, but I do have a few questions that I would like to pose to you experts before we make our purchase (I will also ask my salesman, but he is obviously biased):

1. The factory roof rack supports 100lbs...if I buy some better cross-rails from Thule/Yakima can I increase this number, or is it actually limited by the Escape's roof?

2. The factory hitch is 1.25" and I would prefer to get a 3rd party 2" hitch...are there any reasons why I should not be doing this?

3. We have 2 kids (3 & 6 yo) who will fit comfortably in the back with no problems, but we may want to squeeze a 3rd kid into the back from time-to-time...has anyone had any luck fitting 3 booster seats into the back safely?

I appreciate any answers you can provide, they will definitely make my decision easier!

For the factory roof question, it might be a safety problem more than a problem with the roof capacity. Say you put 350lbs worth of gears on it and you have an accident at a certain speed, rack could be catapulted on others heads :yes: That'S why they have a 100lbs limit i think.

For the factory hitch... I on my side got the 1.25 factory one on my ex-2010 sap escape and when i got my 2011 one, i opted to get a more standard aftermarket 2" hitch as i got some problems to put the lock pin on the receiver as the notch in the bumper is aligned directly on the receiver hole. And more accessory are available on 2" receiver adaptors. Even more if you plan to put an cargo carrier on it.

For the booster, i dont think you'll have any problems with that as they also put three anchors on the rear top section to accomodate boosters on rear seats.

Overall , i think you'll love that vehicle for your family

 

[etrailer]

1. The roof rack, from Thule or Yakima, has a weight rating. So does the roof. You should abide by whichever is less. Though the Thule rack may be capable of 150 pounds, the roof may not be. Same applies for towing. You can get a hitch with a 5,000 pound rating, but if the vehicle is only rated for 3,000, the lower should be followed.

2. No reason not to have a 2" hitch installed. It does sit lower, but it does not really reduce ground clearance. If I recall correctly, the gas tank sits lower than the 2" hitch on my wife's '06. You can install a 2" hitch below the OEM 1-1/4", but you should not use them at the same time. In fact, I strongly recommend using 2" hitches when available for a particular vehicle. There are many more options as far as bike racks or cargo carriers for 2" hitches compared to 1-1/4". The wiring would be the reason I would order the 1-1/4" OEM package. It is not terribly difficult to wire a non-trailer package Escape, but the the vehicles that come with it are so much easier.

3. Depending on the booster seat, maybe. I would take them with you and set them in the rear seat to see if they will fit. Salesman shouldn't mind.

In regards to your camping conundrum, a hitch mounted cargo carrier can add plenty of hauling space, with a big weight capacity. Not to mention being much easier to load. My wife and I take a road trip to Canada every summer. I have a 2" hitch mounted carrier with a large ABS plastic lock box that I put most of our luggage in. It works great and leaves plenty of room inside the Escape. It's going to be very handy this summer since we will have a car seat in the rear. We've actually done some cargo carrier demonstration videos on her Escape that I'll link.

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-Review-UWS-C ... 01022.aspx
http://www.etrailer.com/tv-review-pro-s ... 63153.aspx

Here's a video of a 2" install on a 2009. Process will be the same for a 2011.

http://www.etrailer.com/tv-hitch-instal ... scape.aspx

 

[Rakerburn]

Thank you for the responses so far, they are helpful.

But... how often are you going to be putting stuff heavier than 100 pounds on top of your car? Just curious.

The rooftop carriers I am looking at are 30-40lbs, our tent is 38lbs and our dining tent is at least 20lbs...so that would pretty much put me at the weight limit already. The rest of the stuff I would put in there is likely under 50lbs as will consist of sleeping bags, fold-up chairs, etc. Not being able to go over 100lbs won't be a deal breaker as I can try to find a different place for the tents, but it would just make my life easier if I could increase the weight limit with better cross-rails.

You'd lose out on some rear ground clearance, but if you're not doing anything that would require it, then probably not. I can say that my OEM hitch might've saved me some extra trouble when I got low-speed rear-ended 2-3 months back by a Jeep Liberty because it kinda provides another crossbar in the rear. If you opt to get an Escape sans hitch package, you also don't get the wiring, but that's not a difficult modification to do later.

Have you had any issues with it only being 1.25" hitch? Do you happen to tow anything from time-to-time?

For the factory roof question, it might be a safety problem more than a problem with the roof capacity.

Ya, good point.

For the booster, i dont think you'll have any problems with that as they also put three anchors on the rear top section to accomodate boosters on rear seats.

I thought that at first, but later realized it was possible that the middle latch is simply there for when you put 1 kid in the back as the center of the vehicle is "safer" than the sides.

Again, thanks for the help!

 

[tang]

[Have you had any issues with it only being 1.25" hitch? Do you happen to tow anything from time-to-time?

No problems yet... as for towing, I don't do a whole lot of it. The only time I have towed was when I moved from my friend's house to my current place of stay (which is about seven miles of driving) last summer. I rented the 5'x8' U-Haul trailer and filled it to the top with my junk/stuff. I purchased an OE Ford 1.25" hitch adapter and then a 3,500 ball from a nearby autoparts store. No drama during the tow, which included a highway stretch. I don't have the towing assist software on my Escape, but I'm sure it'd be pretty nice to have.

In my previous experience with Escapes (dad works for Ford and often leased them since he thought they were a good fit for the family), the nice thing about the hitch setup is that I've used the rings to tow a few people out of ditches.

 

[Rakerburn]

1. The roof rack, from Thule or Yakima, has a weight rating. So does the roof. You should abide by whichever is less. Though the Thule rack may be capable of 150 pounds, the roof may not be. Same applies for towing. You can get a hitch with a 5,000 pound rating, but if the vehicle is only rated for 3,000, the lower should be followed.

Thanks, that's how I understand it. The manual says the following:

ROOF RACK SYSTEM (IF EQUIPPED)
Loads should never be placed directly on the roof panel. For proper
function of the roof rack system, loads must be placed directly on
crossbars affixed to the roof rack side rails. Your vehicle may be
equipped with factory-installed crossbars. Ford Genuine Accessory
crossbars, designed specifically for your vehicle, are also recommended
for use with your roof rack system.
The vehicle's roof panel is NOT designed to directly carry a load. The
maximum recommended load is 100 lb (45 kg), evenly distributed
on the crossbars. Ensure that the load is securely fastened. When the
rail system is loaded, check the tightness of the load, including the
thumbwheels before driving and at each fuel stop.

After reading that I assume they are referring to the crossbars, as far as I can tell there is no reference to the roof. :shrug:

2. No reason not to have a 2" hitch installed. It does sit lower, but it does not really reduce ground clearance. If I recall correctly, the gas tank sits lower than the 2" hitch on my wife's '06. You can install a 2" hitch below the OEM 1-1/4", but you should not use them at the same time. In fact, I strongly recommend using 2" hitches when available for a particular vehicle. There are many more options as far as bike racks or cargo carriers for 2" hitches compared to 1-1/4". The wiring would be the reason I would order the 1-1/4" OEM package. It is not terribly difficult to wire a non-trailer package Escape, but the the vehicles that come with it are so much easier.

3. Depending on the booster seat, maybe. I would take them with you and set them in the rear seat to see if they will fit. Salesman shouldn't mind.

Thanks for the advice

I'm actually going to take the Escape for an extended test drive on Saturday and will bring it home and try to alleviate my concerns regarding interior space. I think the salesman is quickly realizing how "particular" I can get

Thanks for the vids, I didn't realize how many different types of cargo carriers were available.

 

[etrailer]

You're quite welcome. There are a ton of options out there, especially for 2" hitches. Between a hitch and a roof rack, you can solve just about any cargo problem. There's also enclosed cargo carriers for hitch mount. They can get expensive, but if you're going to be in some rainy/wet weather, they might be worth looking at. There's also rainproof/weather resistant cargo bags available for both roof and hitch carriers that don't add much weight.

I know the wording is somewhat vague in the manual, but I would still take it as the capacity of roof as 100 pounds. I wouldn't put more than that up there. I'd hate to see you damage the roof for an extra 20 pounds. Just tell the family not to pack so much junk. Tell them you're camping, time to rough it. :lol:

The Escape functions pretty well as a family vehicle for us. I imagine it would start to get cramped when the kids get bigger, but two adults and two young kids should fit fine. My wife loves ours, but she is sold on a Ford Flex when our family gets bigger.

 

[wptski]

There is one reason not to get a 2". You'd have the "ability" to attach a trailer over the #3500 rating of the vehicle. That's why the OEM trailer hitch package is only a 1 1/2". You "might" be leaving yourself open to be accused of towing too much weight. I've heard of this happening already but only once.

Check your state laws regarding towing capacity also.

 

[Domain]

[Have you had any issues with it only being 1.25" hitch? Do you happen to tow anything from time-to-time?

No problems yet... as for towing, I don't do a whole lot of it. The only time I have towed was when I moved from my friend's house to my current place of stay (which is about seven miles of driving) last summer. I rented the 5'x8' U-Haul trailer and filled it to the top with my junk/stuff. I purchased an OE Ford 1.25" hitch adapter and then a 3,500 ball from a nearby autoparts store. No drama during the tow, which included a highway stretch. I don't have the towing assist software on my Escape, but I'm sure it'd be pretty nice to have.

In my previous experience with Escapes (dad works for Ford and often leased them since he thought they were a good fit for the family), the nice thing about the hitch setup is that I've used the rings to tow a few people out of ditches.

Tang, are you referring to Trailer Sway Control? And that's an interesting use for the hitch. Kind of makes me want to put one on my Escape just for that, despite never having to tow anything.

 

[kmoose]

Hello,

I want to downsize from our 2008 Grand Caravan into a 2011 Escape (XLT 3.0L 4WD) as the van proved to be just to big and cumbersome for everyday use. However, my family and I are avid campers and I know that the Escape will not be big enough to carry our gear on its own, so we will definitely need a good rooftop carrier and perhaps a cargo carrier for the hitch.

I know the Escape will be perfect for everyday use, but I do have a few questions that I would like to pose to you experts before we make our purchase (I will also ask my salesman, but he is obviously biased):

1. The factory roof rack supports 100lbs...if I buy some better cross-rails from Thule/Yakima can I increase this number, or is it actually limited by the Escape's roof?

2. The factory hitch is 1.25" and I would prefer to get a 3rd party 2" hitch...are there any reasons why I should not be doing this?

3. We have 2 kids (3 & 6 yo) who will fit comfortably in the back with no problems, but we may want to squeeze a 3rd kid into the back from time-to-time...has anyone had any luck fitting 3 booster seats into the back safely?

I appreciate any answers you can provide, they will definitely make my decision easier!

Wow. You and I are the same person I think. I downsized from a Honda Odyssey, and I camp a lot. Let me see what I can tell you:

1. I don't put too much on the roof - I have the Thule Hybrid cargo box/bag and use it for clothes and sleeping bags. The boot holds WAY more than you think it can (it's hip to be square). I put all the gear in the back, and the 4 bikes on the hitch mount carrier...and off we go.

2. I have a Hidden Hitch 2" receiver - Class III tube style. It sticks out about an inch to avoid pin install problems (but watch your shins!!). Better, I think, for a 4 bike rack too - I just don't trust the smaller receiver for that much tongue weight.

3. My 4 year old and 7 year old sit in the back just fine and an extra booster in the middle is possible, although does require some creative positions to help them get the seat belts done up before take off. However, I have a combo Stage 2/Booster Eddie Bauer seat on one side and a small no-back booster on the other for my older one, and another no back booster does fit between them...as does mom if we need to carry an extra adult...

 

[tang]

My dad has a 1.25" to 2" adapter back at home that he used when we had an Edge and a 2" bike holder. Something to think about, I guess.

 

[wptski]

[Have you had any issues with it only being 1.25" hitch? Do you happen to tow anything from time-to-time?

No problems yet... as for towing, I don't do a whole lot of it. The only time I have towed was when I moved from my friend's house to my current place of stay (which is about seven miles of driving) last summer. I rented the 5'x8' U-Haul trailer and filled it to the top with my junk/stuff. I purchased an OE Ford 1.25" hitch adapter and then a 3,500 ball from a nearby autoparts store. No drama during the tow, which included a highway stretch. I don't have the towing assist software on my Escape, but I'm sure it'd be pretty nice to have.

In my previous experience with Escapes (dad works for Ford and often leased them since he thought they were a good fit for the family), the nice thing about the hitch setup is that I've used the rings to tow a few people out of ditches.

Tang, are you referring to Trailer Sway Control? And that's an interesting use for the hitch. Kind of makes me want to put one on my Escape just for that, despite never having to tow anything.

The Trailer Sway Control is enabled "somehow" with the OEM trailer package, probably enabled with the additional wiring/harness. There's nothing in the manual about how to enable it later.

 

[tang]

The Trailer Sway Control is enabled "somehow" with the OEM trailer package, probably enabled with the additional wiring/harness. There's nothing in the manual about how to enable it later.

It's probably car computer software related. I bet you could have it added for $$ at the dealership for programming. But, yes, I was talking about TSC... TSC... TCS... RSC... goodness.

Tang, are you referring to Trailer Sway Control? And that's an interesting use for the hitch. Kind of makes me want to put one on my Escape just for that, despite never having to tow anything.

The hitch comes with some hooks that come pretty handy on occasion.

 

[wptski]

It's probably car computer software related. I bet you could have it added for $$ at the dealership for programming. But, yes, I was talking about TSC... TSC... TCS... RSC... goodness.

I repeat, there are features that the user can enable/disable and some that require the IDS but enabling TSC isn't mentioned in the manual. Logic or flow charts for the PCM, ABS, 4WD, etc. aren't in the manuals. Either it can't be added later or the info wasn't included in the manual. A description of TSC is but nothing about enabling it. Like my dealer's shop foreman once told me, "If it isn't in the manual, they don't want us to know".

 

[Rakerburn]

1. I don't put too much on the roof - I have the Thule Hybrid cargo box/bag and use it for clothes and sleeping bags. The boot holds WAY more than you think it can (it's hip to be square). I put all the gear in the back, and the 4 bikes on the hitch mount carrier...and off we go.

Thanks, I will have to check out that box/bag...I'm also looking at the LoadWarrior Yakima roof basket.

2. I have a Hidden Hitch 2" receiver - Class III tube style. It sticks out about an inch to avoid pin install problems (but watch your shins!!). Better, I think, for a 4 bike rack too - I just don't trust the smaller receiver for that much tongue weight.

That's my thinking too, I would like to fit a 4 bike rack on the hitch as well for when the guys and I go on our day trips.

3. My 4 year old and 7 year old sit in the back just fine and an extra booster in the middle is possible, although does require some creative positions to help them get the seat belts done up before take off. However, I have a combo Stage 2/Booster Eddie Bauer seat on one side and a small no-back booster on the other for my older one, and another no back booster does fit between them...as does mom if we need to carry an extra adult...

Perfect, that's exactly the answer I was seeking :yes:

Wow. You and I are the same person I think. I downsized from a Honda Odyssey, and I camp a lot. Let me see what I can tell you:

LOL, yes it appears we are in very similar situations

Thanks for the response!

 

[Rakerburn]

I know the wording is somewhat vague in the manual, but I would still take it as the capacity of roof as 100 pounds. I wouldn't put more than that up there. I'd hate to see you damage the roof for an extra 20 pounds. Just tell the family not to pack so much junk. Tell them you're camping, time to rough it. :lol

OK thanks, you're right...no reason to risk damage/safety just to get extra crap up there! :yes:

There is one reason not to get a 2". You'd have the "ability" to attach a trailer over the #3500 rating of the vehicle. That's why the OEM trailer hitch package is only a 1 1/2". You "might" be leaving yourself open to be accused of towing too much weight. I've heard of this happening already but only once.

Thanks for the tip, that would be an unpleasant experience for sure.

My dad has a 1.25" to 2" adapter back at home that he used when we had an Edge and a 2" bike holder. Something to think about, I guess.

I imagine there would be a little bit of "play" between the hitch and adapter, does this compromise tongue weight at all?

 

[tang]

My dad has a 1.25" to 2" adapter back at home that he used when we had an Edge and a 2" bike holder. Something to think about, I guess.

I imagine there would be a little bit of "play" between the hitch and adapter, does this compromise tongue weight at all?

IIRC, there was a little bit but my dad folded newspaper around the hitch so that it wouldn't bounce around. And, as far as I know, he only used the adapter once or twice before we returned the vehicle (he's on a management-based lease program which means he switches cars every 7-14 months, depending on the program's cycle) and I've already mentioned that we aren't a big towing family... haha. He used it for a bike rack, so, well, I couldn't tell you at all. But someone mentioned earlier that the 3,500 limit exists for a reason so 1.25" or 2", I'd still only tow 3,500...

 

[etrailer]

My dad has a 1.25" to 2" adapter back at home that he used when we had an Edge and a 2" bike holder. Something to think about, I guess.

I imagine there would be a little bit of "play" between the hitch and adapter, does this compromise tongue weight at all?

This is a very common question that we see a lot. A an adapter that increases a 1-1/4" to a 2" will reduce the hitch capacity by 50%. 350 pounds tongue and 3,500 pounds trailer becomes 175/1,750.

 

[jay_esc]

1. The factory roof rack supports 100lbs...if I buy some better cross-rails from Thule/Yakima can I increase this number, or is it actually limited by the Escape's roof?

I'm guessing the roof rack will support well over 100 lbs easily, but you have to remember that this is also adding weight to the top of the vehicle therefore raising your center of gravity (you become top heavy). The higher your center of gravity, the more you are prone to rollovers.

I'm guessing 100 lbs is what test have shown will not significantly increase your risk of rollover.