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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all,

I've been plagued with the dreaded "CHECK BRAKE SYSTEM" warning and am hoping for some guidance.

Vehicle has 58K on the odometer and located in the SW US. I've inspected the tone rings for cracks, the lines are rust free and clean, front pads are great (haven't checked the rear shoes).

First off, everything braking related works as always, firm pedal, smooth stopping operation, etc. I've tee'd in a vacuum gauge to the booster line and get engine off vacuum of 20 inches (electric vacuum pump) and a tad less when the engine is running.
One morning when starting (key to "start" then "on" cold engine off initially. I could hear what I assume was the electric vacuum pump running, sounded noisier than I remember so I pumped the brakes a few times, put it into reverse, and had the pedal-to-the-floor mechanical override experience. Key off, restart, and all was back to normal, Since then the "CHECK" light would occasionally turn on ("info panel reset" clears) and it would go away for a few days to a week.
Recently the warning has been coming on a few minutes after I start driving, irregardless of just cursing down the street or while braking. Warning returns 10 minutes after each reset.

I have a "BlueDriver" code reader and reset the ABS system codes (some were from my messing with the vacuum lines while confirming the electric pump was working).

Warning light returns as before and code reader reports C1014 (brake system balance).
I spent a fair amount of time searching for cause/remedy with very few hits, Most mention pressure sensor and/or brake booster position sensor.

I haven't tried to monitor the two sensor signals yet (not sure my scanner can).

Given that this seemed to start when my pedal first went to the floor, could the position sensor have lost calibration?

Any ideas for what I should do next?

Thanks!
 

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2020 Ttanium Hybrid/2009 Limited Hybrid
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Hello all,

I've been plagued with the dreaded "CHECK BRAKE SYSTEM" warning and am hoping for some guidance.

Vehicle has 58K on the odometer and located in the SW US. I've inspected the tone rings for cracks, the lines are rust free and clean, front pads are great (haven't checked the rear shoes).

First off, everything braking related works as always, firm pedal, smooth stopping operation, etc. I've tee'd in a vacuum gauge to the booster line and get engine off vacuum of 20 inches (electric vacuum pump) and a tad less when the engine is running.
One morning when starting (key to "start" then "on" cold engine off initially. I could hear what I assume was the electric vacuum pump running, sounded noisier than I remember so I pumped the brakes a few times, put it into reverse, and had the pedal-to-the-floor mechanical override experience. Key off, restart, and all was back to normal, Since then the "CHECK" light would occasionally turn on ("info panel reset" clears) and it would go away for a few days to a week.
Recently the warning has been coming on a few minutes after I start driving, irregardless of just cursing down the street or while braking. Warning returns 10 minutes after each reset.

I have a "BlueDriver" code reader and reset the ABS system codes (some were from my messing with the vacuum lines while confirming the electric pump was working).

Warning light returns as before and code reader reports C1014 (brake system balance).
I spent a fair amount of time searching for cause/remedy with very few hits, Most mention pressure sensor and/or brake booster position sensor.

I haven't tried to monitor the two sensor signals yet (not sure my scanner can).

Given that this seemed to start when my pedal first went to the floor, could the position sensor have lost calibration?

Any ideas for what I should do next?

Thanks!
just throwing two cents at you
from what symptoms you're describing, I would say that it is your master cylinder that has failed(or something directly related to it). Very strange... it does sound sensor, or solenoid related sort of.

A lot of chain places around cities Will hook up their code readers for free… Maybe they can pull info you're not

I do not call dealerships for my 2009 anymore, they are ridiculous. I have a little Hybrid specific repair shop near enough to me, that knows all the tricks… Everything that dealerships say is not possible, or wants an arm and a leg for.
if you're in/around Denver, I will share the name of the shop i like with you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
just throwing two cents at you
from what symptoms you're describing, I would say that it is your master cylinder that has failed(or something directly related to it). Very strange... it does sound sensor, or solenoid related sort of.

A lot of chain places around cities Will hook up their code readers for free… Maybe they can pull info you're not

I do not call dealerships for my 2009 anymore, they are ridiculous. I have a little Hybrid specific repair shop near enough to me, that knows all the tricks… Everything that dealerships say is not possible, or wants an arm and a leg for.
if you're in/around Denver, I will share the name of the shop i like with you.
Thanks for the reply :)

Fluid level in the MC is still as when purchased, though I suppose it could be an internal leak (no external leaks visible).

I'm in the Abq. area and I've read plenty about the dealers replacing random $1k+ parts with no resolution of the problems (a last resort for me!).

I still need to see if I can monitor/record the sensor output while driving. It's easy enough to monitor sensors with digital or proportional analog outputs, but I'm guessing the position sensor is probably a LVDT type that is not so directly readable.
 

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Crazy? You bet it is. I own a repair shop...Madness! If it were me, Start with a new OEM Ford brake booster travel sensor. Next a brake fluid pressure sensor and lastly a brake fluid bleeding.

Calibrations must be run when changing sensors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Crazy? You bet it is. I own a repair shop...Madness! If it were me, Start with a new OEM Ford brake booster travel sensor. Next a brake fluid pressure sensor and lastly a brake fluid bleeding.

Calibrations must be run when changing sensors.
I've been considering this, but it seems the sensor is only available as part of a complete master cylinder. There is a YT video when someone shows how to swap out the sensor from a junk yard master cylinder and install it in the vehicle without messing with the fluid lines.

I have the shop manuals and didn't see any references to calibration. Anyone know details on this?


Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
You may or may not have to do calibrations. See what happens. View attachment 2077
I found your references in my shop manual, thanks for that!
The video I watched showed the sensor only being accessable with the MC removed (slides out toward the push rod), this diagram shows it as an attachment to the booster. I did a look-see under the hood (too freaking cold right now to work on it). Looks like easy enough access without removing anything. Those harness connectors always baffle me as to their locks, but I think I can remove the sensor with the wires attached so I can get an idea of how to release the wire harness plug.

If the sensor is a simple variable resistance, should be easy to test. If it's an LVDT, that'll take more setup, but doable.

Hopefully I won't need to recalibrate since if it tests OK, I'll just put it back in. A new sensor is about $80 which I'd replace if bad.
 

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my friend, to go through all that trouble and then stick in a used part… Don't let it bite you in the butt.
I can't imagine a new master cylinder would be that expensive, in regards to your time of having to remove the donor part, and your master cylinder- bleed the brakes...
and maybe do it again if the used sensor fails...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
If my sensor was "internal" with the master cylinder, it cannot be bought separately though it can be swapped out with a junkyard sensor without needing to open any hydraulic connections (and pay the dealer to use their fancy brake bleeding system). A new unit (master cylinder assembly) is $$$ plus the required bleeding.

The way I see mine is set up with an external sensor, should be no sweat to remove it for testing and examination. Should be able to reinstall if it is OK. If I do need to buy a new unit, then I "might" need to visit the dealer for a recalibration (probably $$).
 

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There is no testing and inspecting with these sensors. Ford does not provide any values for good or bad. Ford has no problem if your vehicle stalls and dies while driving at 80mph on a five line highway during a foggy night. They do have concerns if the vehicle does not stop as intended, being a hybrid. So, it's remove and replace
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There is no testing and inspecting with these sensors. Ford does not provide any values for good or bad. Ford has no problem if your vehicle stalls and dies while driving at 80mph on a five line highway during a foggy night. They do have concerns if the vehicle does not stop as intended, being a hybrid. So, it's remove and replace
I believe there is limited testing that can be done.
See if it has continuity throughout its stroke, bent shaft, dead spots, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Well I removed the brake travel sensor today with no drama. Came out easily and I even figured out how to remove the harness without buggering up the connector 8^)

It is a simple variable resistor, 3K ohms, 300-2700 ohms over its full travel. It feels like there is a watch spring type coil that keeps the plunger extended.

I did notice an occasional, small, jump in the motion through its range of travel. I could here a slight "pop" like the spring settling to a new position. Watching the resistance change with an analog ohm meter, I noticed a few times where the reading showed disconnection when I noticed the spring motion irregularity. It could be related so I went ahead and plonked down $85 for a new part. Cheaper than taking it to a dealer by far so I'll see if anything improves when I get the part delivered.
The shop manuals order of "repairs" for this code (c1014-07) first recommends bleeding, but my reservoir is still at the same place when the vehicle was new and zero signs of fluid leakage anywhere. That is probably a $300 dealer ticket to have done with the "special" technique required anyway.
Second thing the manual recommends is replacing the booster. The car had been sitting for almost 24 hours and when I removed the sensor their was a distinct vacuum release so the booster seals are fine.

Indications are form the manual that the dealer will replace the entire brake system piece by piece until the code goes away, No thanks!
 
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