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Hello,

As the title says, my radio is not working! The "Ford Escape Premium Sound" display on start up usually fades out and the radio comes on, but now after it fades out the same message just pops back up. No buttons responsive. Checked all fuses and disconnected/reconnected the battery but no change. Has anyone experienced this before and know of a solution? It has been around 80-90deg F the last couple weeks leading to a VERY warm interior with black leather and dash. Thanks!!
 

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usually this is no communication between the Display and Audio Unit and/or the keyboard(controls)

There are 3 units involved.

Display - Front Display Interface Module (FDIM).
Buttons - Front Control Interface Module (FCIM)
Radio - Audio Control Module. (ACM)

Can you pull any trouble codes? You may need something more advanced than a $40 reader from harbor freight. It will throw one or more B-Codes or U-Codes. B for body and U for Serial(UART). B1XYZ.

You specificity checked Fuses 28 and 39 are good?
Fuse 14 should be OK as it is the FDIM and the FCIM.

You can try a walk-around test by holding preset button 3 and 6, but I wouldn't expect that to work right now.

There are 3 ground locations to check.
- G204 for the ACM. (G202 is spliced in with rear Amp, if equipped)
- G205 FCIM
- G202 - FDIM

Here are diagrams taken from a 2012 MY wiring manual. 2011 and 2012 are very close and should be accurate enough.


 

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The Torque app for for Android along with an ELM 327 Bluetooth OBD adapter works good for this. Also Forscan on Windows is good too. You may have to modify the adapter with the switch mod that allows you to scan the MS (medium speed) bus as well. There should be some code(s) if the radio module or radio face button module is completely dead.
 

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bluto said:
The Torque app for for Android along with an ELM 327 Bluetooth OBD adapter works good for this. Also Forscan on Windows is good too. You may have to modify the adapter with the switch mod that allows you to scan the MS (medium speed) bus as well. There should be some code(s) if the radio module or radio face button module is completely dead.
Agreed

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The Haverstraw Man said:
So if you are a everyday Joe and do not have access to all the technology you mention what would be the best thing to do?
Check fuses from the diagram. Check for power and ground at the connectors. Other than that, the tech is kinda required.
The display is showing no comm with the audio unit and/or the control panel. Other than power and grounds, reading code is next. Walk around test, but may fail if the controller is in-op.

I have forgotten to connect the controller connector once and the radio still functioned. No control was to be had, but still showed a radio station.

These vehicles are fairly sophisticated and troubleshooting is helped along with a good reader. It's good to have anyway. Many pinpoint tests require a volt/ohm meter and a decent code reader for body and uart codes. Obdlink mx is under $100, and you don't have to install a switch to move between medium speed and fast speed busses.

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The Haverstraw Man said:
If I wanted to install a bone yard radio would it have to be programmed at a Ford Dealership or is it plug and play?
I am not totally sure on that. There are guides on adding sync to your vehicle. They talk about finding your part number from the menu. I am not sure if that is to find a similar radio that best matches your own or not.

I have not Transplanted a radio unit yet. I have only changed as-built codes. But if you have that question, it might be best done in a separate thread.

Let's see what cekren comes back with on troubleshooting their issue.

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Swapping the radio does not require programing. The safest thing is to swap with the same part number. 09-12 radios theoretically all work in a 2011 with sync but there are several small variations within those years. Things like the third plug for the sub, the built in satellite radio receiver (or not) and so on. So just be aware of that when shopping at the junkyard. Also you mention premium sound in the subject... I see mentions of that in the 2011 escape brochure, but it is unclear if premium sound also includes the Nav radio. If you have the Nav radio, that complicates things as those are going to be hard to find.
 

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I have a 2011 limited with premium sound system and no navigation. If I remember right the radio has slightly higher out put (maybe 7 watts instead of the base model 4 watts) and a seven speaker system. Ends up that the seven speaker premium speakers meant the two front door speakers had the large speaker and a small tweeter in them and the two back speakers were just plain speakers and the 8 inch sub in the rear (7 speaker system) REALLY. Well buyer beware. Not until I upgraded the door speakers to three ways (no problems) did I start getting some good sound. I would pull the radio to see the exact part number and the connectors that are on the radio and then look on EBAY or see if there is a LKQ in your area that can order one. But I think pulling the radio first is a must, I believe that in 2011 there were three different radios.
 

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Just recieved the same ford escape premium sound display on my 2011 today. Was there a fix? I do have an after market radio, it's been over 8 years with this radio. Thanks
 

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Lots of good info above to troubleshoot this problem. If all the fuses are good you will need to pull the radio (ACM) and verify that it is getting power at the large connector. If power is good, then most likely you have a bad ACM.
 

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KK thanks, does the ACM connector still applies to after market radio, it seems its part of the existing stock radio? I scan the error codes today, I tried to start the car today and it wouldn't start, been -25C here so really cold. Error code B1318 indicates battery low voltage.

I definitely have an electrical problem, there is also a loud rattle noise coming from behind the radio, the blinkers when on seems to stick and for whatever reason when the key is out of the ignition or when the car is not turned on, the rear glass latch opens by itself, sometimes it doesn't stop until I arm the car
 

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I am not sure what to suggest. I seems the extreme cold might be doing strange things to your vehicle. The low battery code is obvious. The other one, B2A20 FORD Code - Ignition Stuck in Start, seems problematic. The ignition mech on these vehicles is known to go bad. I also found this:
B2A20 FORD code possible causes
Faulty Smart Junction Box (SJB)
Smart Junction Box (SJB) harness is open or shorted
Smart Junction Box (SJB) circuit poor electrical connection
Faulty Instrument Cluster (IC)
I would look into the discussions on how to fix bad grounds and check those before replacing anything.
 
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