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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, this is going to sound a little scatter brained at first so please bear with me. I was really into car audio about 15 years ago. But 15 years has seen the hayday of many of the manufacturers come and go. (the ones I was familiar with anyway). The days where Soundstream was readily available and Kicker was forging the Solobaric design.

I just purchased a 2011 XLT Escape and will be taking possession of said vehicle in December when I transfer back to the United States. :yahoo: I have been debating the fiberglass methods vs. MDF construction concepts for the masses. Until I stumbled upon this site and Fourthmeals 'False Floor' enclosure. (Hats off to you sir, I would have never thought of that) Suffice it to say that this will be the modification that I use to put my system together. With that said, I have a few questions regarding the ENTIRE scope.

1.) What is the TOTAL depth of the cavity under the carpeting in the cargo area? (I'm going to make it a true hidden install as much as possible.)

2.) I know it's a DD head unit. I'm not sure what the current high end manufacturers are for HU's these days. In my time Blaupunkt was good, Alpine was fine and Kenwood was common. (I've bookmarked all your recommended sites so don't worry about repeating yourself there.) I would LOVE navigation included but there are other options for GPS if a better HU just doesn't offer it.

3.) Can I put a standard 6.5" woofer in the door panels of this vehicle? (modifications are not new to me nor are power tools and DIY approaches)*edit* (found this AFTER posting :doh: ) 6.5" drivers fit fine in the 5x7 opening of the door, just build a simple thin wood baffle (or use cutting board plastic) and seal everything up. I always use light foam to create a gasket of sorts between the door skin and the door itself, so the woofer's sound goes directly to the cabin instead of getting caught up in between the door and the door skin (distortion.) A 5x7 and 6.5" are interchangeable with a simple baffle adapter you can make in 5 minutes with a jigsaw.

4.) Would you recommend a single 10" subwoofer (I'm thinking the new Kicker solobaric considering 4thmeal got 12" subs into his install) with an ample amount of RMS driving it? (I don't even LOOK at max wattage. It's a lie that the industry has decided is worth perpetuating)

5.) This is for the rest of the 'Doctors' here at E-C. If I were to follow Fourthmeals false floor design to include the wet trunk compartment, is there room for said 10" sub or would I need to step it down to an 8" design?

I know December is a long way away for most of you. But I ask these questions because I'm planning on 'piece mealing' this setup over the course of the next few months so I can dive right in within days of picking up the vehicle. Any and all inputs will be taken to heart, I assure you. I'm a married Military man and must keep full functionality of this vehicle. But at the heart of it all, I'm an audiophile who has a spouse that DOES appreciate good sounding music. :pics:
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Alright, I've spent the majority of my day researching the latest manufacturers and reading up on some various things that were a tad unclear to me years ago (and apparently still were). I've compiled a basic list of the components that I think should make for a reasonable build. I'm not set on where I'm going to purchase these items just yet as I plan to nickel and dime the components over the next few months. But I figured that I could post up what I have in my mind so far. Again, the following links are just product links, not necessarily where I plan on purchasing from.

Front Speakers: http://www.millionbuy.com/cevvega65cs.html

Front Speaker Amp: http://cgi.ebay.com/Kenwood-KAC-X4R..._Amplifiers&hash=item19beeda3c1#ht_4234wt_913

Sub: http://www.millionbuy.com/kik06s8l52.html (mounting depth is 4.75" + excursion + port clearance)

Mono Block Amp: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC8105/Kenwood-KAC-8105D.html?tp=115

I'm kinda weird about keeping my RMS values matched as exactly as possible. If anyone has experience where this would be inadvisable, please enlighten me as I want to do this right the first time.

I'm thinking that even if I can't mount the sub in a straight up situation, I could lay it at an angle within the false floor setup to get my clearance a bit lower. I'm not entirely sold on a HU just yet. (too many options). I'm going to have about two weeks straight that I can dedicate to this build once I get back. (gotta love vacations)
 

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Hi Iggie, thanks for the props.

I only have a few moments free right now but later in the day I'll try to get back to this with solid answers all around. For the moment, I may be able to help you as I am SELLING my large 2x 12" sub box that was in my vehicle. This box needs a little re-work on the top end, the carpeting and such. It was the prototype for the false floor sub boxes that I build for the other guys on here and contains a few hundred dollars in fiberglass materials alone given how overbuilt it is. The only fault with it is that it is a smidge taller than I would have liked to end up, so the floor ends up a little bit taller than factory.

I'll get back to you later with a full post on all your questions. In the meantime, take a peek at http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com , http://www.raamaudio.com , and get a deadening plan laid out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Getting my hands on your old enclosure is tempting I must admit. However, I'm currently out of the country and would have nowhere to store that monster. Additionally, there are a few 'modifications' to your initial setup that I have in mind. In broad stroke statements I gotta say Fiberglass and Plexiglass.

As for deadening. My plan at the moment is to completely remove all interior panels in the cargo area and get a good lay down in that area. In my experience SUVs are horrible about road noise in that area. In addition, I'm planning on getting some deadener down in the floorboard area of the forward cabin as well as all the door panels. Once that is laid down, I want to seal all those "Factory Ports" that they love to put into the door panels.

My plans for the amps are pretty straight forward from there. With all the carpeting up, I want to mount the X4R under either the Driver or Passenger seat. (once I have it tuned out for those channels I don't see myself needing to access it again) I also have a third amp that I am going to utilize in this build but it's a 'filler' amp for the back seat speakers which I hope to put some reasonable coax speakers back there. The amp (which is running the back speakers in my Japanese beater until I transfer) is http://www.crutchfield.com/S-DMjTZkcnLQN/p_105KSAX330/JVC-KS-AX3300.html. It's nothing huge but it suffices for fill between the front and sub.

My real issue in the planning stage at this point is that I cannot physically put my hands on my new ride. It almost makes all this planning feel futile because I can't be sure of any dimensions. (i've been scouring over your, and sinisters, pics of that area trying to find ANYTHING that would indicate how deep it actually is.)

*edit* After reading even deeper into this forum, I think I found a reasonable HU. It doesn't have navigation but it has most everything else I want in there. 6 pre-amps, rear view camera input, usb, and video output. (the kiddo is going to be getting a headrest vid screen at some point in the future for road trips) http://www.crutchfield.com/s_130AVHP420/Pioneer-AVH-P4200DVD.html?ssi=0&tp=27995
 

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Time to cover this a little deeper. I'm in BOLD

iggie2299 said:
Ok, this is going to sound a little scatter brained at first so please bear with me. I was really into car audio about 15 years ago. But 15 years has seen the hayday of many of the manufacturers come and go. (the ones I was familiar wth anyway). The days where Soundstream was readily available and Kicker was forging the Solobaric design.

I just purchased a 2011 XLT Escape and will be taking possession of said vehicle in December when I transfer back to the United States. :yahoo: I have been debating the fiberglass methods vs. MDF construction concepts for the masses. Until I stumbled upon this site and Fourthmeals 'False Floor' enclosure. (Hats off to you sir, I would have never thought of that) Suffice it to say that this will be the modification that I use to put my system together. With that said, I have a few questions regarding the ENTIRE scope.

1.) What is the TOTAL depth of the cavity under the carpeting in the cargo area? (I'm going to make it a true hidden install as much as possible.)
3" depth in the tub, and about 2" above that for a total height of around 5". Its not much, and it requires you to think well outside the box with shallow subs. Right now, the RE Audio SL12 is hot on my list of subs to consider.

2.) I know it's a DD head unit. I'm not sure what the current high end manufacturers are for HU's these days. In my time Blaupunkt was good, Alpine was fine and Kenwood was common. (I've bookmarked all your recommended sites so don't worry about repeating yourself there.) I would LOVE navigation included but there are other options for GPS if a better HU just doesn't offer it.
Pioneer is one of the best DD makers, considering that there are NO DD head units with active crossover and processing on board. Sony just came out with a cool touch screen but I like my AVH-P3200DVD very much (its in my Acura.) Given the DD units out there have virtually no processing, its in your best interest to pursue processing separately. I know you know about the X4R, but if I were to build my system again, I would immediately find a way to incorporate the MS8 in.

3.) Can I put a standard 6.5" woofer in the door panels of this vehicle? (modifications are not new to me nor are power tools and DIY approaches)*edit* (found this AFTER posting :doh: ) 6.5" drivers fit fine in the 5x7 opening of the door, just build a simple thin wood baffle (or use cutting board plastic) and seal everything up. I always use light foam to create a gasket of sorts between the door skin and the door itself, so the woofer's sound goes directly to the cabin instead of getting caught up in between the door and the door skin (distortion.) A 5x7 and 6.5" are interchangeable with a simple baffle adapter you can make in 5 minutes with a jigsaw.

4.) Would you recommend a single 10" subwoofer (I'm thinking the new Kicker solobaric considering 4thmeal got 12" subs into his install) with an ample amount of RMS driving it? (I don't even LOOK at max wattage. It's a lie that the industry has decided is worth perpetuating)12's just fit the situation given those 12's were very shallow and OK with small space. You can use whatever you want, but if its going in a false floor box it better be shallow.

5.) This is for the rest of the 'Doctors' here at E-C. If I were to follow Fourthmeals false floor design to include the wet trunk compartment, is there room for said 10" sub or would I need to step it down to an 8" design?Its not really the diameter of the sub, its the depth that will get you.

I know December is a long way away for most of you. But I ask these questions because I'm planning on 'piece mealing' this setup over the course of the next few months so I can dive right in within days of picking up the vehicle. Any and all inputs will be taken to heart, I assure you. I'm a married Military man and must keep full functionality of this vehicle. But at the heart of it all, I'm an audiophile who has a spouse that DOES appreciate good sounding music. :pics:
 

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iggie2299 said:
Alright, I've spent the majority of my day researching the latest manufacturers and reading up on some various things that were a tad unclear to me years ago (and apparently still were). I've compiled a basic list of the components that I think should make for a reasonable build. I'm not set on where I'm going to purchase these items just yet as I plan to nickel and dime the components over the next few months. But I figured that I could post up what I have in my mind so far. Again, the following links are just product links, not necessarily where I plan on purchasing from.

Front Speakers: http://www.millionbuy.com/cevvega65cs.html
Given you are installing an active amp, you'll get a LOT more for your money going with DIY drivers. One of possibly a thousand suggestions: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... r=264-1028 http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdet ... er=290-307 .

Front Speaker Amp: http://cgi.ebay.com/Kenwood-KAC-X4R..._Amplifiers&hash=item19beeda3c1#ht_4234wt_913
Works for me. I'd roll this if you do not want to run a processor like MS8. If you do run the MS8, you can run much less expensive amps, or perhaps smaller amps.

Sub: http://www.millionbuy.com/kik06s8l52.html (mounting depth is 4.75" + excursion + port clearance)
As we talked about before, too much mounting depth in most situations. But for the record, square subs just do not do it for me. Too much distortion, too much cone distress. Further, the nature of the design means they need HUGE boxes to work well. Kinda a lost cause in this situation.

Mono Block Amp: http://www.crutchfield.com/p_113KAC8105/Kenwood-KAC-8105D.html?tp=115There are tons of good monoblock amps. This one is great. Soundstreams new Rubi, DTR, and Ref lines would also be sweet, as would the new PG, PPI, or Mb quart (which makes a great amp)

I'm kinda weird about keeping my RMS values matched as exactly as possible. If anyone has experience where this would be inadvisable, please enlighten me as I want to do this right the first time.
What do you mean, exactly? Do you mean you want your amplifier power to match the speaker's capability? OR do you mean match your woofers to your subs? Truth is, RMS is a horrible way to measure speaker output. Root Mean Squared is not how we listen. We listen to highly dynamic music. But before I comment further, just let me know what you meant and I'll comment on it.

I'm thinking that even if I can't mount the sub in a straight up situation, I could lay it at an angle within the false floor setup to get my clearance a bit lower.Angles won't work. Cut some wood and make some test shapes, and you'll see what I mean. It sucks but its true. I'm not entirely sold on a HU just yet. (too many options).If you had an MS8 here, you could run stock and have all the same performance as an aftermarket HU. That's its job. I'm going to have about two weeks straight that I can dedicate to this build once I get back. (gotta love vacations)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
As for the Diameter, I'm not really pressed about that. I just know that, generally speaking, the mounting depth is more shallow for smaller speakers when looking at standard drivers. That and smaller subs generally provide adequate bass for the type of music I listen too.

As for the subs, I'm not sold on them as of yet and I'm open to suggestions.

Anyway, thank you for the responses. Most explicitly regarding the depth I have to work with in that well area. I'll keep posting up what I find out regarding this and what changes I wind up making to my initial setup. Thank you again Fourthmeal. :kneel:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
fourthmeal said:
iggie2299 said:
I'm kinda weird about keeping my RMS values matched as exactly as possible. If anyone has experience where this would be inadvisable, please enlighten me as I want to do this right the first time.
What do you mean, exactly? Do you mean you want your amplifier power to match the speaker's capability? OR do you mean match your woofers to your subs? Truth is, RMS is a horrible way to measure speaker output. Root Mean Squared is not how we listen. We listen to highly dynamic music. But before I comment further, just let me know what you meant and I'll comment on it.
You're pretty much right about what I meant. For example, I like to marry a 300 watt (rms) sub with a 300 watt (rms) amplifier. Is that what you were referring to?

As for the MS8 and a stock HU. I MUST change out the head unit. I got the absolute bare base package for the stereo, knowing that I was going to be doing an aftermarket setup within days of getting it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Ok, just a little updating. I have decided to go with the RE SL10s for this. I'm going to attempt to salvage as much of the "wet trunk" as possible with this build. I have located a replacement item for it so I'm going to give it a whirl and see how that works out.

I did have a question about Recievers though. I know fourthmeal said that Pioneer is good but I was wondering if you knew anything about the ECLIPSE AVN2210p. I found one at a reasonable price and was curious what the scoop was on this HU.
 

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iggie2299 said:
Ok, just a little updating. I have decided to go with the RE SL10s for this. I'm going to attempt to salvage as much of the "wet trunk" as possible with this build. I have located a replacement item for it so I'm going to give it a whirl and see how that works out.

I did have a question about Recievers though. I know fourthmeal said that Pioneer is good but I was wondering if you knew anything about the ECLIPSE AVN2210p. I found one at a reasonable price and was curious what the scoop was on this HU.
Eclipse is no longer in the usa, so that needs to be considered for service and parts etc. Eclipse was once at the top of the game but compared with the latest offerings from other companies, it is hard to find a model that can compete. It truly depends on what you are after though. Pioneer avh-p series are often chosen because of their excellent ipod control, upgrade-ability with modules such as navi, quick boot time/loading, high quality high contrast lcd monitor, smart touch-screen controls with gestures like sliding your finger to find a point in a song, and mutiple source handling like sd, usb/ipod, dvd, bluetooth, etc. Many older units just can't keep up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
STOOOOORY TIME!

So I was talking to a couple of friends of mine at work today and it turns out that a guy got rid of his subs and amp because he got sick of pulling it in and out of his car for drifting (a popular sport here in Japan). He sold the setup for $200 to another guy who put it into HIS car, but then sold the car. Turns out, the guy that bought the car, didn't want the subs and amp in his car anymore because it consumed too much trunk space. At this point I'm not really expecting much because it's been passed around here for quite some time apparently. The final owner agreed to let me take a look at it to see if I was interested. I got the whole setup for $200.

Are you ready for this?
1.) Kenwood KAC-1952D
2.) 2 Kenwood Excellon KFC-XW1212DVC subs (I know they're too big for this project but they came with the amp...what was I going to say..."I don't want your subs, just the amp"?)
3.) An enclosure for the subs that fits into the car I'm currently driving here in Japan.

I feel like I made the score of the century. Please don't tell me I bought poop. :fan: I know these were pimp in their day.

I plan on using the Subs in my secondary vehicle once I figure out what it is and buy it. But that's about a year or more down the road. I'll post pics as soon as I get them downloaded from the camera.


Amp.

Sorry for the blur, but here's the enclosure they came in.

Proof of the model.

I think I'm going to use this HU. http://www.crutchfield.com/s_130AVHP420/Pioneer-AVH-P4200DVD.html?tp=20217
 

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Hey man. First off a great big THANK YOU for your service.

Looks like 4th answered a lot of questions already. For HU I too love the Pioneer units. The P3200BT has been flawless. I really like the user interface. BT works great, sound is amazing and the tunability for the $$ is great. I am toying with the idea of upgrading to a bigger screen size unit. Now that the hard work is done, I could upgrade to a higher unit easily.

Either way I would recommend Pioneer units. As far as sub choices, I am still using a 10" sub box in the rear cargo. It is small enough to be out of the way yet delivers an awesome sound. In the winter I may go for a false floor - but for storage as opposed to a sub enclosure. I want to keep my electronics in the same spot, but have a storage area similar to the wet trunk option. For now I will leave the sub box as is.

I think the first choice to make is passive or active. From there the 2 paths are different and will drive the rest of the purchases. I went passive as it was my first "do-it-myself" project. I learned a lot and became extremely knowledgeable in my vehicle and what fits. In the end I got the sound I wanted. If you ask questions and plan, you will have a nice big pile of goodies waiting for the vehicle...
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Hey Sinister.
First and foremost, it's my honor to serve.

Secondly, I had a specific question for you regarding that storage area. I was wondering just how much space there was behind the 'wet trunk' and the 'jack storage' area. I am, of course, speaking of the distance between the wet trunk hinge and the back seat. I ask because I found a replacement for it at 110 bucks. I plan on eliminating the jack storage area and putting that mess in the 'wet trunk' area. I only got that option because it came with the cargo package. (gotta haul snowboards and ski's somehow right?) This will dictate the size of the subs that I use in this build. Additionally, I was wondering just how much of the self adhesive sound deadener (I can't find the name at the moment) you wound up using in the doors. I ask because I can guesstimate at what I would need in the cargo area but I would like to hear from someone that did this recently about how much they needed. Your feedback and your project itself have been and will continue to be invaluable.
 

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Manuals found here: http://www.kenwoodusa.com/Support/Car_E ... s_Manuals/

I need to model the sub at home but I have a sinking feeling it will be like the other Kenwood subs I have owned and modeled, and that is that is that it will be a space hog. My biggest issue with these subs is that they have ONLY 6.4mm excursion. This essentially screws you. I could have found you a set of polk 10" home theater subs on closeout at Meniscus audio for $50 each, with basically more than double this excursion. I really think these are not going to work for you, at least in a sealed box. Ported, the trunk will be used up, which defeats the concept you were going for. I don't make recommendations for audio equipment on a whim and the reason is that you can accidentally purchase yourself into a corner... and in this case I think you are going to have a tough, tough time getting these to work. The mounting depth is more than 5" anyway, so false floor installation is IMPOSSIBLE.

I would turn around and sell them immediately.

The sub amp is sufficient and worth about $100 in excellent condition used. It will produce an honest 700-800W in a 2ohm environment. It will do more with 1ohm, but Kenwoods have a habit of overheating and dying in low impedance environments. Stick with a 2ohm load if you can, and it will make for a lot cooler, a lot more stable amp.

Overall, I think you bought things at a fair price but only compared with themselves, not relative to what you actually need to complete your project.

The sticky deadener stuff is the CLD part of the sound deadening equation. It is important to use visco-elastic products like Don's SDS product (as mentioned in an above thread), and RAAMmat BXTII. There are many brands out there, but stick with a non-asphalt based product.
 

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I actually don't have the wet trunk. I was going to purchase one a while back but the cost was absurd. I have the stock "plastic" false floor. I cut it up underneath and created some good ventelation for the 2 amps. My plan was to build a flase floor with an access panel for the amps and a storage compartment near the cargo door.

As far as materials, I sent Don at SDS the followng measurements:

1) Height and width of front door exterior sheet metal. 24 x 36
2) Height and width of front door interior trim panel. 24 x 34
3) Height and width of rear door exterior sheet metal. 31 x 33
4) Height and width of rear door interior trim panel. 26 x 30
5) Width of the floor. The entire middle of the front is a
console. The foot area width (each side) is 22 x 33.
6) Distance from as far up the firewall as you can reach to the front edge of the front seats. 33
7) Length and width of the cargo area floor. 34 x 54
8) Height and width of the rear quarter panels. 22 x 33
9) Height and width of back door exterior sheet metal. 21 x 46
10) Height and width of back door interior trim panel. 16 x 46

Then I got the following fom Don:

40 CLD Tiles
Extruded Rope 1 roll
MLV 67.5 ft² roll
1/4" CCF 1 sheet
1/8" CCF 4 sheets

The calculations worked out perfectly and I had literally a small piece of MLV and a small piece of 1/8" CCF left over. I would have had more but I used some of the 1/8" for rolling up barriers for the 4 speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
fourthmeal said:
I really think these are not going to work for you, at least in a sealed box. Ported, the trunk will be used up, which defeats the concept you were going for. I don't make recommendations for audio equipment on a whim and the reason is that you can accidentally purchase yourself into a corner... and in this case I think you are going to have a tough, tough time getting these to work. The mounting depth is more than 5" anyway, so false floor installation is IMPOSSIBLE.

I would turn around and sell them immediately.

The sub amp is sufficient and worth about $100 in excellent condition used. It will produce an honest 700-800W in a 2ohm environment. It will do more with 1ohm, but Kenwoods have a habit of overheating and dying in low impedance environments. Stick with a 2ohm load if you can, and it will make for a lot cooler, a lot more stable amp.
Oh believe me, I have no intention of even attempting to use these subs in the escape build. I simply took them as part of the 'package deal' because the amp was what I was after. The subs just kind of became extra. If I can sell the subs, I will but, I'm not going to worry about it that much. Plus, I'm fairly certain that given the limited access we have to audio equipment here, I could put these subs on a few fliers around base and re-sell them for 200 bucks easy. Making the amp a freebie. :woohoo:

*edit* Between the time I wrote this and the time it took me to get to work, I've already got three people interested in the subs. I still plan on using the RE SL10 sub for the escape build.

Sinister - Thank you for those measurements. I'm going to get that information out to Don as soon as I get paid. What you're describing will cover just about everything I had the intent of doing. I think it should be sufficient from what you described in your expereince with it.
 

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Don's products are sweet. The only thing I would do is order some RAAMmat BXTII in place of a few tiles (say 30 tiles instead of 40) and let the BXTII fit the areas that super-thick mat simply wont, and let this thinner mat work for you to block off all the small holes in the doors and tailgate. Be very, very careful with Don's mats, because they are so thick on the aluminum they cut like a razor blade. I had a to-the-bone cut because I let one slip out of my hand and fall on my ankle. Wear protective clothing even though it feels like overkill.

Sounds like your got the rest of this under excellent control. I would hunt down your perfect active speaker combo when time allows. Partsexpress, madisound, and mensicus all come to mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I'm curious and I mean no disrespect by this question but I have to know. Why are the reccomendations for active speakers in the door all rated at 8 ohms? In my experience, shouldn't I be looking for 4 ohm components? I'm just trying to understand the logic.
 

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iggie2299 said:
I'm curious and I mean no disrespect by this question but I have to know. Why are the reccomendations for active speakers in the door all rated at 8 ohms? In my experience, shouldn't I be looking for 4 ohm components? I'm just trying to understand the logic.
If you can find 4 ohm speakers that work well for you, get it. 8ohm is what home theater uses, which is the majority of the DIY market. 8ohm speakers are actually more efficient, so output is similar to 4ohm with a given amount of power. The Goldwoods I posted to you are 4ohm, btw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I'm still trying to figure something out. This whole wattage thing that appeared to be 100% bogus measurements 15 years ago still seems to be a bit idiotic. Back in the day when all the idiots were boasting about 'peak' wattage and thinking they had something super, I was looking at RMS. I know fourthmeal said it's a horrible measure of a speakers performance. I can live with that due to the fact that I'm more of a SQ listener anyway. When I think of wattage, I feel like it gives me a bit of a measurement of how loud it is capable of getting. Ok, I had a question...here it goes.

I bought those two subs and amp. The RMS output of the amp at 2 ohms is rated at 900 watts.(I wired it to solid 2 ohms at fourthmeals warning about kenwood amps at 1 ohm). The subs are rated at 300 watts and 1200 peak. If I'm running them in a parallel circuit for a rating of 2 ohms, how the heck are they actually NOT blowing by having that much power being delivered. I mean, isn't that basically 450 watts each? I've been reading like crazy over the last few days but have yet to get an answer to this question. DIYMA doesn't even address it as far as I can tell.

Also, I was wondering if anyone know the actual available mounting depth of the door panel speakers? I'm looking at some woofers for the component portion of this build and am reading some in the range of 6.5" deep. Thank you in advance for whomever can provide this information.
 
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