[riccoar1]

I have had a check engine on for a good while now. After changing the vapor canister purge valve and the O2 sensors, it's still not clearing from the catalytic convertor. I know it needs cleaning or replacing which is not easy to get to. The plugs are good. About 195,000 miles.

What would be a good part to replace to maybe help the stall?

I've tried running Lacquer Thinner thru fuel to clean the catalytic converter, at this juncture just can't see the headache in dealing with replacing or getting to the cat with the age of the vehicle.

 

[JohnCT]

I have had a check engine on for a good while now. After changing the vapor canister purge valve and the O2 sensors, it's still not clearing from the catalytic convertor. I know it needs cleaning or replacing which is not easy to get to. The plugs are good. About 195,000 miles.

What would be a good part to replace to maybe help the stall?

I've tried running Lacquer Thinner thru fuel to clean the catalytic converter, at this juncture just can't see the headache in dealing with replacing or getting to the cat with the age of the vehicle.

Cleaning the cat never works. The cat on the 2.5 is actually fairly easy to get to - much easier than the firewall cat on the V6.

What codes are you getting? Unless it's plugged, cat codes should not cause driveability issues.

John

 

[riccoar1]

PO420. Yeah I know the Cat is just affecting the MPG, but I wondered since the stall thing just started.

 

[riccoar1]

PO420 Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold Bank 1
PO302 Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected (this is new)

 

[riccoar1]

The car wants to stall once you hit the gas on moving, but not real bad. And once the car comes to a stop.

Wondering if maybe it's the injectors

 

[PhyscoPyro]

1st I would replace the plugs if you have 195k on them even if they look "good". 2nd, sounds like a spark plug coil going out. I would replace it b4 it goes out for good. Id start with cyl # 2. I bought the off brand ones from autozone, and I didnt replace them all at same time per Ford suggestion. Had one go out on the highway... started acting sluggish and stalled as I came to a stop, as a limped my way to parts store. Kept spraying the fuel into cylinder though, then soaked the exhaust / cat with the extra fuel. Any hard starting... like not wanting to crank over? I pulled spark plug from cylinder that had misfire and shot fuel out of it. Let it "clear out". Then after a new coil, it was still sluggish. I had to drive it around to let the exhaust system get hot and clear out the excessive fuel. My exhaust was a bit foggy coming out. But once the system warmed up and dried out, it ran like normal. I want to say like maybe 1hr of driving around it finally got full power back. Just my experience. Had this happen 2 times.
That 420 code seems like one of my codes during this event.

I had another stalling issue that ended up being the throttle body. But with the codes above, I would be buying original motorcraft sparks, and then a new coil on cyl # 2. Then let it get up to temp, then drive it. Needs a load to get hot. This is what worked for me. 2011 Escape.

 

[riccoar1]

The plugs I know are not real old, but changing those are not an issue. The coil boots are about $6 a piece. Any real reason not to just go ahead and switch all 4 at once with new and new plugs?

 

[PhyscoPyro]

Not sure what you mean by "not real old". Not the coil boots... the actual coil itself. On my 2011 I have 4 original and 2 newer ones. Change plugs at the 100k. But since you are having issues, if it were me, I would replace them. Then get you a scanner tool you can plug into the obd 2 and see the realtime data on your phone. See if your having a cylinder misfire. Will keep count of which cylinder has the issue. If so, I would be replacing the ignition coil, not just the boot.

https://www.autozone.com/ignition-tune-up-and-routine-maintenance/ignition-coil/p/motorcraft-ignition-coil-dg-522/1061037_0_0

 

[riccoar1]

I'm going to order two new coils and put 4 new plugs in. I'll also go ahead and take a look at the Throttle Body as well.

 

[PhyscoPyro]

So while you wait on your parts, and im guessing you have a code reader as you posted some of the codes, take coil # 2 and swap it with another. Mark it so you know which one it came from. Then use your scan tool and see if issue moves with that coil. Can do with the spark plug as well. I know the coil is a quick swap / test. Then you will know if its the coil / spark plug.. or something deeper within that cylinder. Have you had any issues with starting? Like engine locks up when starting? Antifreeze level looks normal in reservoir? Meaning havent had to add any recently?

Not much to look at with the TB. Cheap little can motor that turns some plastic / nylon gears. I opened it up after replacing mine. Wife wasnt getting a misfire with this event. It was unable to hold idle while slowing down to a stop.

Think you have a coil going out. Hard to say on plugs. Ive had one "spark" outside of the block that looked fine. But under compression, it refused to fire. I was like " yeah right" as I watched a youtube video showing this... I replaced the spark plug and it worked. That went into the memory bank.

 

[Mountain Escape]

I'm going to order two new coils and put 4 new plugs in. I'll also go ahead and take a look at the Throttle Body as well.

I agree with Pyro, Don't throw money at your vehicle, complete your testIng my friend. If you pull your throttlebody, make sure you only use throttlebody cleaner on it.
There is no reason to do anything halfway when replacing parts, if you got the cash, replace them all.

 

[riccoar1]

OK. I sprang for another 2. I'll replace all 4 coils and all 4 plugs. With almost 190,000 miles, proabably a good idea. I replaced the Valve Cover Gasket on my 2012 after my daughters 2010 failed. I had some browning on Cylinder 1 and just went ahead and replaced. I have the the pulleys I ordered that still need installed. My nephew suggested it was a cheap replace after he installed my new radiator and thermostat.

 

[Mountain Escape]

OK. I sprang for another 2. I'll replace all 4 coils and all 4 plugs. With almost 190,000 miles, proabably a good idea. I replaced the Valve Cover Gasket on my 2012 after my daughters 2010 failed. I had some browning on Cylinder 1 and just went ahead and replaced. I have the the pulleys I ordered that still need installed. My nephew suggested it was a cheap replace after he installed my new radiator and thermostat.

Get your vehicle up to running temperature, and park on a loading dock ramp, or something otherwise similarly steep. It is difficult to purge all of the air bubbles out of a system without doing this.
Just another fun suggestion ( :
I don't know why your pulleys needed to be replaced, the only thing I would be concerned about is your water pump with a new radiator(this is usually the only thing recommended when replacing a radiator, besides the thermostat)
To your knowledge, was any stop leak ever added to the system? Did the old radiator fail, if so, why.

 

[PhyscoPyro]

I only replaced the 2 that went out. Not all 6. Daughters 2010 gasket... what engine? I did the front one of my 2011 3.0L mid of last year. They sure dont give you any working room to pull it. Then another leak developed. I didnt know there was a plastic piece that mounted to the side of the block behind the water pump pulley. Little gasket on bottom of this plastic piece was a common leak point. Since I was this deep into it, wanted to replace the camshaft wiper seal. I got a gasket "kit" from rock auto. The camshaft seal did not fit. Ford made this part with a glued in seal. I couldnt believe it. Had to pickup a new plastic housing with a new glued in camshaft seal from Ford dealer at 53.00.

So if hers is the 3.0L, as I dont know the layout of the 4 cyl, and you get another leak on front valve cover, take a look at the rear camshaft seal. Oil was leaking down onto exhaust and wife complained about a burning oil smell. Rated for 80k miles, I felt lucky to get double that.

https://www.fordpartsgiant.com/resources/encry/actual-picture/fpg/large/e3f89cae2ba5c0d86965dd550b99347a/7401a213060044d572187ac76aca5a1c.jpg

 

[riccoar1]

Radiator was probably just worn out. Had a small leak on the bottom center. Never ran any stop leak in it. My nephew said to never use it. I just bought the replacment parts and he installed. When he test drove it, he said the pulleys were pretty noisy because of their age. He just said if I got new ones, he could replace those and my engine would be a lot more quiet. He's an ASE and likes working on vehicles. I think for all of them it was maybe $100.

I reset the codes and swapped coil 1 & 2. No check engine has come back but it takes a little bit before the CAT will throw it. No misfires detected.

When I was having issues with the O2's I replaced the spark plugs then so they are not that old. But when I get the 4 new coils and plugs in, I'll go ahead and swap.

I've had a 2002, 2007, 2010, and now this 2012 Escape. If this one ever craps, I'll probably search for another 2012. Not a fan of any styles made after the 2012.

 

[riccoar1]

Could't get plugs to budge, but I'm almost certain they are fairly new. I put the 4 new coils in and the initial drive of a couple miles is not showing the issue anymore. I'll still work on getting the plugs situatuated later.