[brett_frederick]

hey fourthmeal,

i am looking for a good set of 6.5 components for my front doors. i currently have a zxkicker 350.4 amp with a cvt 8" sub in factory enclosure and 5x7 alpine type s 2way coxials in the front doors. the system sounds pretty decent but i would like some more clarity, highs and mid bass up front. so, i want to get a good set of 6.5 components with crossovers and put my alpine's in the back doors. is there any sound problems with using both components and coxials in the same system? i might end up getting another amp as well if i need to.. so anyways, im looking for something with nice clean crisp tight sound. also, ive seen some component sets with angle basket mounting for the tweeter inside of the woofer. do you think this would be a good choice given the location of the door speakers? it would send the highs upwards instead of into your knees i guess... also i want quality stuff, i dont mind spending some dough on them, hopefully get something decent for around $300?? suggestions would be greatly appreciated!! i listen to mostly rock and house/electro.

thanks again.

brett

(i posted this in another topic but i dont think you saw it)

 

[fourthmeal]

I have decided that the best location for the tweeter on these vehicles is probably the A-pillar. This position gives the most up-front image and detail, but I would advise like I always have to go active here so you can correctly process the time alignment issues that come with separating the woofer from the tweeter.

The only thing important about using different speakers in the same system is that ideally, they should have the same timbre. If they don't you may find that things do not blend well. Given the rears should be about 15-20dB quieter than the front to maintain a proper front stage, you can use pretty much anything you want back there as long as it sounds good. They are just ambient fill anyway.

If you install a tweeter inside the door panel, you are going to have approximately the same sound you have now, which is probably a more dull and lifeless sound than you wanted. The tweeters do not fare well when they have to pass through a thick plastic door skin with large holes in it, and the angle they are in and the position they are in does not allow those higher frequencies to reach your ears without significant distortion and sound quality loss.

More bass comes in when you properly deaden and seal the door, and amplify the speaker appropriately.

As far as brands? Well I'd truly recommend you find an active solution, then order DIY speakers separately.

hey fourthmeal,

i am looking for a good set of 6.5 components for my front doors. i currently have a zxkicker 350.4 amp with a cvt 8" sub in factory enclosure and 5x7 alpine type s 2way coxials in the front doors. the system sounds pretty decent but i would like some more clarity, highs and mid bass up front. so, i want to get a good set of 6.5 components with crossovers and put my alpine's in the back doors. is there any sound problems with using both components and coxials in the same system? i might end up getting another amp as well if i need to.. so anyways, im looking for something with nice clean crisp tight sound. also, ive seen some component sets with angle basket mounting for the tweeter inside of the woofer. do you think this would be a good choice given the location of the door speakers? it would send the highs upwards instead of into your knees i guess... also i want quality stuff, i dont mind spending some dough on them, hopefully get something decent for around $300?? suggestions would be greatly appreciated!! i listen to mostly rock and house/electro.

thanks again.

brett

(i posted this in another topic but i dont think you saw it)

 

[brett_frederick]

so if i go with an active crossover i wont need any passive crossovers, correct? i found this kicker active crossover:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/KICKER-KX3-3-Way-ACT ... ltDomain_0

any other brands you know that do the same thing i need for cheaper?

 

[fourthmeal]

You are correct in that you won't need passive crossovers, but you do need one channel of amplifier power per speaker. I guess what you are showing there works as a crossover but what I meant was a processor. Time alignment is not possible with the active crossover you just showed, just crossover frequency adjustment.

A processor would be the goal.

 

[sinister mob]

I agree that active is the ideal way to go. But you can also go the passive route with excellent results if desired. For me, putting in the passive set-up with decent components really sounds awesome. I have a good clean signal from the HU, good clean power with the amps, decent speakers all around and really good sound proofing.

I think someday I may think about processing and T/A, but I think it is more of a personal preference. For me as a sound novice, the way my current set-up sounds is amazing. I am sure if I spent 5 minutes in 4thmeals car, I would be ordering up more goodies! But the components up front really sound great using a passive crossover set-up. I installed the tweeters in the panel as that is where they sounded the best. The restraint is probably that with the passive set-up, I would not be able to seperate the tweeters from the mids any more than I did. That is where active is better becasue you can correct for that greater distance between speakers.

I will also agree that having tweeters inside the stock speaker locations is just not good. The plastic holes combined with the terrible angle just throws muffled sounds into your legs. Not ideal at all.

Sound proofing can work wonders. Once I did my "roll-up" on all 4 speakers, the sound no longer bounces between the speaker and panel:

 

[fourthmeal]

Nice job on the roll up trick there. That is exactly what you want. I'm surprised nobody in the industry has bothered to make a product that does this... we have to always do it ourselves.

Now, I've learned the hard way that installing those tweeters in the panel like you did Sinister (and like I did) is not such a good idea. Why? RESELL. I mean there's no way in Hades I'm leaving $300 worth of tweeters in the door when I sell the car, but then again I can't leave a hole in the door either. There are a few reasons why I so strongly recommend the A-pillar:

1. Technically, you do not have to drill extra wire through the door's Molex connector. You can use stock wiring and splice it instead
2. A-pillar plastic is far cheaper and easier to order than plastic door skin.
3. The A-pillar is higher up and farther away so it enhances your sound stage, especially if time alignment is used.

 

[sinister mob]

The roll-up method made a HUGE difference too. Especially in the rears as I am using 5x7 speakers. More of an oval wrap job for those. The panel fits super tight up against it and the sound has nowhere to go but out.

Agreed on the panel vs. pillar cost difference. If I did it over again, I would use the a-pillar location. I know a replacement set of panels would be $$$$$$ compared to $ for pillars. But realistically if I do ever sell the vehicle, I will simply leave the tweeters in there. Mine are not worth enough to pull them out. That would give me a reason to get better ones too. P