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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My GF has a 2001 Escape V6, and I knew the compressor was failing because I could smell the belt beginning to burn, so I ordered a rebuild compressor, and before it could get here the compressor completely locked up and now I can't turn the engine over. The new one should be here this weekend, but I am having a heck of a time finding ANY info on replacing it :confused: This will be my first compressor replacement, and I want to make sure I am prepared to do it, so does anyone know of a writeup that you can post to help me out? Thanks in advance!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I am definitely going to do it myself, but there just isn't any step by step info on how to do it on this car. I think the main thing I need to know is how to get the hoses off the compressor, I really haven't looked at it yet and am not sure if they just bolt up to it or if there is some special tool to get them off? Everything else I am pretty clear on, I know I need to put a new orifice tube in, and I am considering an in line filter before the orifice. I don't think anything got into the system, as it seems the clutch went out on the old compressor, it was working fine prior to that, so I don't think I need to flush anything. And I know the system has to be put under vaccuum before refilling. I also know that it's recommended to replace the drier, but I really don't understand why that's always necessary, I could see it if there was a major leak somewhere and there hasn't been any pressure in the lines for a long time, but like I said, the ac worked fine until last week. The lines will be open temporarily when unhooked from the compressor, but I just can't see how that would destroy the drier?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also, I am not going to attempt to evacuate and refill the system myself, I just don't have the equipment for that, but I am planning to do the compressor this Sunday, and won't be able to get it to the mechanic till early in the week, and I am wondering if I drive it without turning the AC on, will the compressor still be operating? I guess I am worried about it trying to circulate whatever is left in the lines.
 

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jmana said:
Also, I am not going to attempt to evacuate and refill the system myself, I just don't have the equipment for that, but I am planning to do the compressor this Sunday, and won't be able to get it to the mechanic till early in the week, and I am wondering if I drive it without turning the AC on, will the compressor still be operating? I guess I am worried about it trying to circulate whatever is left in the lines.
If your worried, just leave the electrical connector disconnected.
 

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The AC Compressor leaks its green oil before it completely locks up, and it usually takes some time. You are lucky it didnt catch on fire which is usually what happens. I had the total AC replaced (under warranty) all because i noticed what I thought was an engine oil leak but it was AC oil dripping onto the pan and being tossed around by the serp belt (which explaned the slight "churp" noise i would hear when i started it up, it quit after the compressor was replaced) by the AC compressor...it had very little oil left in it and my mechanic said it would have completely burnt up and could have started a fire.
They replaced EVERYTHING, all hoses and the dryer and accumulator and at my request they replaced the serp belt, Freon is still pumped thru the system even if u dont have the AC on they told me. It took them over 4 hours to do it. leave the electrical connector disconnected.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I don't think this one failed becuase of lack of oil, it seems the clutch bearings (if it even has bearings) failed, because I could see specks of metal all over the grooves of the serp belt. So hopefully the damage is all external, and nothing bad got in the refrigerant :yes: It also looks from the writeup I found on Autozone.com that the lines just bolt onto the compressor, so hopefully I won't have to mess with any special fittings, although I don't know how the orifice tube is attached yet. I also don't know how to get the serp belt off, I tried the other night to but even with the tensioner moved all the way I still couldn't get the belt off any of the pulleys.
 

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The small amount of lubercating oil is mixed with the freon and there is no way of telling how there is. In the old days a tech would just crack the valve on their guages to let the freon ecape slowly which left the oil still in the system. If you lost a hose or a fast leak, all the oil leaves with the freon.

Not sure about the color unless they dye it now a days but I still have some from years ago and it crystal clear.

There is a ceramic seal in the AC compressor, if it's allowed to dry out from lack of use, that can cause a leak. It's good idea to run your AC even in colder weather just to keep the seal lubercated.

The AC clutch rotates on a radial bearing when disengaged.
 
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