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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I plan on buying this http://www.crutchfield.com/p_161LC2I/Au ... erview-tab

It will enable me to keep my factory head unit in my 2008 Ford Escape Hybrid with Audiophile sound system & navigation. I dont want to take apart my dash, so wheres a good location to tap into my rear speakers? Can I find rear speaker wires if I take the panel off between the front and rear doors (right where the seatbelt is). Anyone know the color of the rear speaker wires, that would be a good place to get a speaker level input and run the wires to the back to my LOC.

The good thing about this particular LOC is that I won't need to run a remote turn on wire, as it has a feature that senses signal from the speaker wires and turns the unit on.

Im planning on getting a 15 Kicker L3 in a ported box - nothing special (haven't decided on an amp yet).

SO back to my original question, where is the best location to tap into either rear speaker without having to take off the door panels?

Thanks guys, any comments will be appreciated.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks. My LOC has a 2 channel input. Can i just combine my left and right +ve and then the left and right -ve then spice them into the wiring from one speaker? - instead of using both rear speakers...
 

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I really want to do what you're talking about. I'm just so nervous to screw something up that I haven't attempted anything myself. I know I can take it to a place like car toys or best buy and they can add a sub to my factory head unit, I just know it's gonna cost a lot more for the labor....

When you finally do this, come back with how hard it was.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Done it & it was a piece of cake. The LOC is a little pricey, but worth it! Didnt even have to run a remote turn on wire. I recommedn this to anyone who wants to add a sub without changing your stock head unit.

I not have my rca's running to my 500w Kicker amp, which is powering my 15" L5 in a ported enclosure. I know its underpowered, but it pounds! Will upgrade to a 750w amp soon. With my vehicle being a hybrid, I havent really seen any difference in mpg since installing the system.

:peace:
 

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I have a premium sound package in my 2012 escape limited, my neighbor Jeff is super good at car stuff so I asked him for help and he checked the wires of the stock amp and even when the car was 100% off the amp was still receiving power. So he had an idea, tap into the stock sub use the wires from that for my input output?, and use a 1000cc motor cycle battery to power the amp because if I use my car battery it will kill it cause it won’t shut off, and use the wires that power the amp to charge the battery off the 1000cc motorcycle battery. Please comment or email me at [email protected] if that’s a horrible idea or if you need me to explain myself better to understand and possibly help.
 

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Yes, the factory amp has a 12v at all times feed, and an enable/trigger. As long as the remote turn on wire is only on when the key is on (or the radio more specifically), it won't run down the battery.

Hooking up a small motorcycle battery to an amplifier sounds like a bad idea.
 

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Do you have any advice on what to do then, and where to hook up my power cable to not drain my battery? Because he said we could use the stock amp wires to be like the input output stuff(make bass go brrr at right time) and he just didn’t want to run the power cable I got because we couldn’t find a place to hook the cable onto the battery because he said if we just attached it to the battery it would just kill the battery cause it wouldn’t shut off.
 

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Do you have any advice on what to do then, and where to hook up my power cable to not drain my battery? Because he said we could use the stock amp wires to be like the input output stuff(make bass go brrr at right time) and he just didn’t want to run the power cable I got because we couldn’t find a place to hook the cable onto the battery because he said if we just attached it to the battery it would just kill the battery cause it wouldn’t shut off.
Most aftermarket audio amplifier installs are exactly like this factory one. High amp always hot 12v to the amp, and a remote turn on/trigger/enable. As long as the remote trigger is not triggered, then it shouldn't drain the battery.
 

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do you know anyone on this website who has installed a sub into a 2012 limited with the premium audio kit, I learned how to build a computer in a day but I just can’t seem to get the grasp of this at all.
 
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