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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Okay I am in the process of installing a Pioneer AVH-120BT in my '08 Escape. I just finished matching the Red Wolf wiring harness to the Pioneer adapter. I have this long green wire on the Pioneer harness that according to the "Warning" label on the unit: Light green lead at power connector is designed to detect parked status and must be connected to the power supply side of the parking brake switch. Improper connection or use of this lead may violate applicable law and may result in serious injury or damage.

So, I imagine the switch is at the top of the parking brake. What color is the power lead? OR do I really need to connect this?

Later. Pepse.
 

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It is to enable video playback only while "parked" which apparently having the park brake on is what they use to trigger it.

If you aren't interested in video playback (not cameras like backup, but from a video file, a DVD/SVCD, or maybe streaming?) then you don't need to connect it. If you will do video playback, then you do. The legal text is about hooking it up to another trigger source to circumvent this protection (hooking straight up to 12v to always enable playback, but I don't think that works either, and is considered unsafe).

The park brake switch provides a ground signal to the SJB, I don't see a positive trigger out from the SJB for it, so you would need a relay it seems. I think that the instrument cluster gets that information off one of the CAN buses.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
bangster,

Thanx for the info. I didn't plan to have a backup camera right away so this is no big deal. At least I don't have to hook that green wire to anything to make things work. The main reason for this aftermarket HU is that the OEM unit is a POS. I've driven Fords for many years and they typically have the better radios; whether it be FM or AM or CD, but this one is crap. True, it is almost the bottom of the heap radio and it shows.

Anyway thanx for the info.

Later. Pepse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I attempted to install the Pioneer HU today but I am missing a T20 torx (I'll get one tomorrow). BUT, when disassembling the Ford unit I discovered that there are 3 things that plug into the factory radio, besides the antenna. And the Pioneer only has the one plug that I wired per the Red Wolf Ford harness; match colors and twist loc the wires. Also, I have 2 different videos I found on youtube. One is an average guy and the other is a Crutchfield video. Nothing said by either person about the 3 wiring harnesses and what to do. I mean I hook up the one to Pioneer and the other end to the Ford plug, and I assume the other 2 do nothing when I turn the key?

Later. Pepse.
 

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Pepse33 said:
I attempted to install the Pioneer HU today but I am missing a T20 torx (I'll get one tomorrow). BUT, when disassembling the Ford unit I discovered that there are 3 things that plug into the factory radio, besides the antenna. And the Pioneer only has the one plug that I wired per the Red Wolf Ford harness; match colors and twist loc the wires. Also, I have 2 different videos I found on youtube. One is an average guy and the other is a Crutchfield video. Nothing said by either person about the 3 wiring harnesses and what to do. I mean I hook up the one to Pioneer and the other end to the Ford plug, and I assume the other 2 do nothing when I turn the key?

Later. Pepse.
One plug is probably for the LCD screen. It'll still turn on, but display "FORD ESCAPE" at all times.
 

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The big plug is all that is needed for a basic install (big plug provides power, key on power, ground, and all 4 speaker connections). There is no parking brake wire available without using an integration adapter kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well I hooked up the Pioneer and Nothing. Not sure why. All wires from the HU are mated to the wires of the Red Wolf/Ford plug. True I have left over wires on the Ford adapter but I don't see it as being the cause. I'll look for my 12 volt Radio Shack power supply and see if anything lights up.

Just to let people know where I am on this.

Later. Pepse.
 

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Since the OEM radio doesn't have a wire going to it when key is on (it has constant 12v and gets signal from CAN BUS to turn on), if it isn't an adapter that also gets the signal to turn on and gives 12v, you need to run a switched power wire from the fuse box, best bet is to use a fuse tap.

I assume OEM radio is the basic 4 speaker no sub no navigation radio?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah, OEM no sub no NAV, 4 spkr, no controls on steering wheel either. As for the fuse tap is this something I gotta get through Bad Buy or Crutchfield?

Later. Pepse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Okay, so it looks like the white/red stripe is what I need to check. Is it possible that I should hook up the ground strap even tho it is not stated anywhere? As in the Crutchfield video and the average man video? And no mention in the Pioneer book.

Later. Pepse.
 

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White/red is constant power, always hot. That is good for the memory.

The other fused power (gray/violet) is only during start, not run/accessory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
What about the ground strap? Hook it to the stereo or not?

Later.
 

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bangster said:
White/red is constant power, always hot. That is good for the memory.

The other fused power (gray/violet) is only during start, not run/accessory.
Uggh, that is annoying! They really don't make it easy to install an aftermarket radio, do they? I finally know what they mean by 'Retained Accessory Power' in all of the Ford the installation accessories.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_249FD27C/ ... rface.html

This would be the piece to get if you don't want to do a fuse tap on a fuse that is hot with the key on. The smaller connector connects to the MS CAN bus and the little box decides when to turn the radio ON and then energizes ACC wire going to the aftermarket radio.

Edit:
Fuse tap from AutoZone:
https://www.autozone.com/starting-charg ... /32416_0_0
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I think I'll just get the fuse tap. I didn't plan to stick alot of money into this stereo system. Hopefully it works out okay. I'll keep this as up to date as possible.

Later. Pepse.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Okay, I got a Fuse Tap from Auto Value. Like the one from Auto Zone. Do I put 2 10 AMP fuses in this outfit or just 1. And where in the fuse box am I plugging this in? Radio? And I assume I run the hot wire to the always on in the Pioneer harness?

Just making sure.

Later. Pepse.
 

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You need to pick a circuit that is hot in run and start (and accessory), and that needs to go to the non constant power in on the radio. You need to put the original fuse in one spot, and then another fuse to protect the new circuit. The radio one is always hot so you don't want to use it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Sorry for the delay. Been working on my Studebaker; much much simpler.

Anyway, as for the fuses should I use (at the fuse panel) No. 40 AKA front power point? Or No. 28 a 5amp radio or 39 a 20 amp radio? In using the Fuse tap.

Later. Pepse.
 

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Pepse33 said:
Sorry for the delay. Been working on my Studebaker; much much simpler.

Anyway, as for the fuses should I use (at the fuse panel) No. 40 AKA front power point? Or No. 28 a 5amp radio or 39 a 20 amp radio? In using the Fuse tap.

Later. Pepse.
For the on when car is in run/accessory...
F40 is always hot, so no
F28 is only hot in run, so no
F39 is always hot, so no

F41 and F47 should be hot in run and start, and are on the accessory delay logic (so the radio would remain on until a door is opened or it times out)
F29 through F37, and F46 are hot in start and run
F43 and F45 are hot in run and acc (NOT start)

personally I prefer to use one that is not used (an option your vehicle doesn't have) if it is populated (they are not always), then less critical things
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
bangster, according to pages 218 &219 of the owner's guide 41 is a 15A fuse for Driver/passenger door lock switches,auto dimming mirror, compass, ambient lighting (mine only has the door lock switches). F47 is a 30A circuit breaker for the power windows and moon roof I only have the power windows). F43 is a 10A for rear wiper logic, heated seats relay, instrument cluster. F45 is a 5A for front wiper logic, blower motor relay. F46 is a 7.5A for OCS (restraints), PADI (restraints). Unless needed I will pass on the descriptions for F29 thru F37.

Now as for amperage would I be looking for 15A or higher? So to say if I used F45 a 5A and am having it take care of a stereo at say 10A (A 10A fuse for the radio and 5A for the wiper logic and blower motor using the Fuse tap. Just trying to get something solid. Because in seeing what the fuses cover I want to question the potential choice.

Later. Pepse.
 
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