Ford Escape Automobiles Forum banner
1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Upgrading a 2010 Ford Escape. Have Apline gear.
MRP-F300 Amp.
MRP-300 Mono
1022D Sub

Looking at SPX-17REF or SPX-17PRO.

I will either go with the 17PRO and not do any dampening or go with the 17REF and dampen all doors. But I value your opinion so please let me know what you think.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,058 Posts
fros said:
Upgrading a 2010 Ford Escape. Have Apline gear.
MRP-F300 Amp.
MRP-300 Mono
1022D Sub

Looking at SPX-17REF or SPX-17PRO.

I will either go with the 17PRO and not do any dampening or go with the 17REF and dampen all doors. But I value your opinion so please let me know what you think.
IMO don't skimp on both sides. Its not worth it to invest MORE in better gear and do LESS to the car to make them sound right. That's backwards. Buy them on Ebay, enable bing.cashback and ebay bucks, and get 'er done. I paid $319 for mine about a year and a half ago or so. Bing cashback was $25.52, and $6.38 for ebay bucks.

To save money on deadener, I've been hearing good things about RAAMaudio's latest upper grade BXTII product. The Original stuff is sticky, annoying, and messy. The new stuff is said to be sticky, but much more usable and it wont' smear over everything. The price is right. I also like RAAMaudio's Ensolite for closed-cell foam.

BTW, I have run the SPX-17PRO's. The tweeters are SO good, that they will be with me probably forever, or I will buy more for other cars. The woofers are merely OK. You must seal the door very carefully because this woofer will not perform right in a leaky door.

FYI, the SPX PRO component set is one of the very, very few that contains the proper adjustment potential to allow you to install the woofer and the tweeter in locations separate from each other. As I have said many, many times, the problem with installing components in the door (or a tweeter in the a-pillar instead) is that there is a differential between path lengths from your ear to the speakers. The SPX PRO crossover box has jumpers that will engage various circuits that will compensate for these differences. Fair warning, do NOT install the crossovers in the door. You will need to tune the crossovers. I recommend installing them under either the passenger seat, or in the trunk with amps.

With the F300 amp, I recommend that you bridge it for those SPX PROs. You can also bi-amp, but bridging will give you 2x the amount of power, and you will want that. The SPX tweeter as I said is phenomenal, but the woofer is merely OK. Certainly it sounds great, don't misconstrue,...but you need to set the crossover point around 70-75hz highpass so the speaker doesn't bottom out on lower bass notes. That's their weak point.

Don't worry about the rears, stock power will be fine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Very Cool. I have having these installed so I will make sure I have this info with me. I noticed that you had these mentioned in one of your installs and was glad to hear you like them. I understand about the skimping, sometimes we just don't get it until we hear it a few times. You know, I got good speakers, I shouldn't have any noise in a new car. Following all the posts you have made and how people look up to what you say, you have sold me on getting it done correctly. So it will be done. Thanks and will let you know how it goes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,058 Posts
fros said:
Very Cool. I have having these installed so I will make sure I have this info with me. I noticed that you had these mentioned in one of your installs and was glad to hear you like them. I understand about the skimping, sometimes we just don't get it until we hear it a few times. You know, I got good speakers, I shouldn't have any noise in a new car. Following all the posts you have made and how people look up to what you say, you have sold me on getting it done correctly. So it will be done. Thanks and will let you know how it goes.
Awesome.

You should really try installing yourself though. It isn't hard. I would only say DON'T do it yourself if you don't have tools or space to work. The rest is just taking your time and being careful
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The desire is there, but no tools and time is a problem right now. I got everything in, so I am looking to it being done this week. There is a lot I would like to have done, but going to Dynamat for the 4 doors and there will extra for other area's. Would you say the hood would be a pretty valuable location to have done? or under the seat area? I was reading about the Alpine H660 sound processor. Sounds sweet, priced high.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,058 Posts
fros said:
The desire is there, but no tools and time is a problem right now. I got everything in, so I am looking to it being done this week. There is a lot I would like to have done, but going to Dynamat for the 4 doors and there will extra for other area's. Would you say the hood would be a pretty valuable location to have done? or under the seat area? I was reading about the Alpine H660 sound processor. Sounds sweet, priced high.
Deaden with CLD tiles the door, trunk, and tailgate. Then seal the doors w/ whatever you have, like plastic corrugated panels ("Vote For..." signs, for instance), then deaden all that. Use CCF to create a barrier in the doors, trunk floor, and tailgate. Consider using MLV in the trunk floor for extra damping.

Dynamat isn't what I would use.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top