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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2005 mercury mariner 2.3l base awd.

Hi all, I've searched this site as best I can and found similar posts and answers but not a solution to my situation. If it has been answered already, I apologize, but was not able to find it.
About 2 months ago the abs light came on solid and the 4wd light came on intermittently.
I've had this situation before, so I diagnosed the way that has worked for me in the past.
I checked the 4 tone rings. All looked good as I've replaced them all over the years. The rear left had shifted maybe 1/4 inch towards the wheel so I figured that would warrant a closer luck and possible replacement. Before I wasted time doing this which I know is a pain of a job I took it to an auto shop for codes.
On the way to the auto shop as I reversed from my parking position outside a restaurant it felt like I was under load, the car was sluggish and needed more gas to move than it should. A wheel was dragging. It felt like the rear left but I can't be 100pc sure as I couldn't see it. It skidded a bit then freed up fine. Went to shop for diagnostics.
The tool came up with c1234 speed wheel rf input signal missing, p1000on board diagnostics II monitor / drive cycle test not complete, and u2023 malfunction received from external node.
I did 1 job at a time and took the car for a test spin after each one, but the abs light is still on solidly, and the 4wd light flashes after a while. The (rear left, I think) wheel has stayed locked up maybe 4 times in total, always just after being parked, with parking brake on, and had always freed up after a bit of coaxing. So far what I've done is..

Replaced rf speed sensor, replaced rear left tone ring with new, (old one was perfect but had relocated slightly). Replaced rear left speed sensor just in case. Checked rear shoes and drums, they look fine and well within wear parameters. Replaced rear left brake wheel cylinder (there was a TINY leak in one of the rubber seals), checked operation of parking brake, it is freeing up perfectly and engaging perfectly both sides, cable looks great and unobstructed and undamaged all the way to the front of vehicle.
The 2 front calipers were replaced w new pads 3 months or so ago. I dismantled them and regreased all points.
I re replaced the new speed sensor on the rf just in case I got a bad one online.
Looked again at all 4 wheels braking systems. All my hoses were replaced about a year ago. Rear drums and pads look great, no marks etc. Same for front discs. No brake lines are crimped or damaged, no brake fluid leaking anywhere. Brake servo is 2 yrs old. No leaks anywhere near master cylinder or abs pump or lines to and from.
Brake fluid is new, topped up, and bled at each wheel.
After each test/look/try/replacement I've disconnected the - and connected the + with the - lead for minimum 10 minutes to clear codes, but on reconnection and startup the abs light is waiting for me, and the last time I had a wheel (I now think it's the rf!) lock up on me was just yesterday.
So basically, something is locking up one of my wheels, possibly rf, and there's a rf fault coming up.
I just today ordered a new master cylinder thinking it is not releasing the pressure properly, after I do this I have no where to go except an abs pump/control module as far as I can guess. This is getting bad enough for me to be tempted to bring it somewhere to be fixed but I don't want to give up or be ripped off, but at this stage I've wasted (almost) enough time trying and failing.
Is there any way to test or possibly clean or diagnose the abs pump instead of spending $200 on a used one? Or did I miss something?
Even if noone can help, thanks to whomever has read this far, it was a bit of a vent for me at any rate!!
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Do the ABS and 4WD still function normally?
Thanks for the reply.
I couldn't call one wheel dragging intermittently normal so in that way the abs or 4wd don't work, but when it isn't dragging I haven't tried hard braking to see if the anti lock works.
Apart from that, when no wheel is having the brake applied, it feels to be driving normally, but again, I didn't want to drive too hard either just in case it might lock up on me at speed. I've kept speed down and stuck to city driving just in case.
 

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If it was my vehicle I would suspect the ABS module next. Have a shop diagnose it if you don't want to throw more money at the vehicle. Maybe when you remove it, you might see some corrosion and just clean it up if it isn't damaged too much vs replacing? Good Luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
If it was my vehicle I would suspect the ABS module next. Have a shop diagnose it if you don't want to throw more money at the vehicle. Maybe when you remove it, you might see some corrosion and just clean it up if it isn't damaged too much vs replacing? Good Luck.
Thanks for that, yep I'm leaning that way too at this stage. When I remove the mc I'll remove the module too and have a look for anything obvious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Sorry I've no idea why multiple pics uploaded! Anyway, this is what the module looks like, it's pretty ratty alright. Any point in even going at it with emery paper, electrical cleaner and a toothbrush did nothing? I don't think there's much hope for it really, and it was a major pain to remove from the car and will be just as messy putting it back. The only thing is I didn't realize I couldn't just plug n play a replacement, as it needs to be synched by computer to the car and I don't have such equipment (or knowledge).
I don't think I can send it off to be repaired as I broke the plastic cover and exposed the control board slightly trying to remove a rusted rounded off torx bolt. So either I deliver the car on a flat bed to a mechanic to be ripped off knowing my luck, or I waste another day putting back a possibly faulty system.
I've come to the conclusion too late that the master cylinder was probably fine seeing as a fault there would affect all wheels, not just one.
 

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2020 Ttanium Hybrid/2009 Limited Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
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Sorry I've no idea why multiple pics uploaded! Anyway, this is what the module looks like, it's pretty ratty alright. Any point in even going at it with emery paper, electrical cleaner and a toothbrush did nothing? I don't think there's much hope for it really, and it was a major pain to remove from the car and will be just as messy putting it back. The only thing is I didn't realize I couldn't just plug n play a replacement, as it needs to be synched by computer to the car and I don't have such equipment (or knowledge).
I don't think I can send it off to be repaired as I broke the plastic cover and exposed the control board slightly trying to remove a rusted rounded off torx bolt. So either I deliver the car on a flat bed to a mechanic to be ripped off knowing my luck, or I waste another day putting back a possibly faulty system.
I've come to the conclusion too late that the master cylinder was probably fine seeing as a fault there would affect all wheels, not just one.
You can edit your post, and delete the duplicate images.
I am going to throw out there that joining AAA is cheaper than a tow truck will cost you outright, and you get three tows – each up to 100 miles/per year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You can edit your post, and delete the duplicate images.
I am going to throw out there that joining AAA is cheaper than a tow truck will cost you outright, and you get three tows – each up to 100 miles/per year.
AAA is the flatbed I was talking about, it's the mechanic not the tow I don't trust.
 

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2020 Ttanium Hybrid/2009 Limited Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
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AAA is the flatbed I was talking about, it's the mechanic not the tow I don't trust.
Have you asked AAA if there is anyone that they recommend, AAA approved?
Angi list?

you got three tows, you could see what a dealer says.
Not trying to be a know it all jerk or anything
 

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Do you know how to test a 2 wire ABS hall effect sensor at the ABS connector to the module? If you see a signal reading from the connector with the wheel spinning, the sensor/wiring are intact, bad module. If you need tips on the testing, let me know.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Do you know how to test a 2 wire ABS hall effect sensor at the ABS connector to the module? If you see a signal reading from the connector with the wheel spinning, the sensor/wiring are intact, bad module. If you need tips on the testing, let me know.
Good idea, thanks. I did test it at the wiring loom connection, but now with your diagram I can test at the module itself to rule out a wiring issue. Though with the module looking as it does I'm betting that's where the bigger problem is...
 
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