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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Currently my 05 FEH battery is suffering badly,
https://lithiumlifepo4battery.com/supplier-337344-hybrid-car-battery
This is the store i found, and it looks like every pack they sell is the same 6.5AH NiMH D-cell in various configurations. Thats hopeful since the original pack is 5.5AH
But at the same time it looks sus as F, I don't trust any reviews on it and it's all in broken english
Greentech auto has a $2k 12mo warranty, and a $2.9k 18mo warranty and a $4K 36mo warranty (all refurb cells)


I did contact them for a quote, and $2.5k for a 3 year warranty and supposed brand new cells is great, with the tradeoff/fun of playing with high voltage

Also if nobody has heard of them at all, and this turns out to be a scam... What are some ways to be able to get my money back without having to ship the cells back overseas? Would a chargeback work if I document everything correctly? It does say they take paypal, would they be any good in this situation?
 

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It's hard to know the quality of the cells.

I feel like six months from now, the batteries may act up, and the warranty will be ship it back to us at your expense, and we'll see first.

And then you're without a vehicle for that whole time. While they test and troubleshoot.

However, it could work out well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
vpasla1 said:
It's hard to know the quality of the cells.

I feel like six months from now, the batteries may act up, and the warranty will be ship it back to us at your expense, and we'll see first.

And then you're without a vehicle for that whole time. While they test and troubleshoot.

However, it could work out well.
Thankfully i got a junkyard battery with some decent cells for only $250 a while back, and my originals.
That's 100 sticks I can junk together and swap in, taking an afternoon/evening.
But the cell packs are absurdly heavy and I hate doing it
I won't be out of a car, but I may be out of a ton of money and some muscle soreness!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I'm pleasantly surprised, got here in just under a month from payment. Came in two separate packages, pretty protected with each stick individually boxed and padded.
Plant Packing materials Package delivery Shipping box Wood

Wood Stairs Flooring Hardwood Engineering

Did not come with any instructions, but even spending weeks in transit every stick was 6.228v to 6.217v, So i took a gamble and just popped them in there without a charge.
Automotive tail & brake light Automotive lighting Computer keyboard Trunk Audio equipment

After spending an entire afternoon and some of my night, (12PM to 8pm) the cells were finally replaced, everything reassembled, and it was time for the first start.
Took out forscan, saw it around 38% SOC and quickly gaining. Since It was a bare battery I turned it off, car decided not to(It stayed running after the key was removed for 10 more seconds, neat!).
Product Font Automotive tire Audio equipment Gadget

Put all the covers and ducts back into place, did an R-mode Rebalance and a full module reset for BCM and PCM.
Changed nothing, but now its warmer. (I am assuming the AVG_SOC/MAX_SOC is a holdover from the old battery, and will be more accurate with time)
Product Gadget Font Automotive tire Audio equipment

Then let it cool and eat dinner, then took it out for a nighttime drive.
Car Vehicle Steering part Motor vehicle Plant

50.5 miles of city driving, averaging 36.5mpg
not bad for A/T tires, a NB roof rack, and a 0-60 test thrown in.
The voltage drop and rise from these cells are amazing, I was pulling 110A for that 0 to "speed limit" test for a good 16 seconds, and the lowest voltage was 276.
The original battery hit 210v when peaking at 100A, it could not sustain that for more than a second before throwing a wrench light out.
It now consistently regens, and has no trouble going about a mile through a neighborhood starting from 55% SOC
Let's hope they stay this way for a while!
I should probably start a fuelly or something, but now i'm wondering what I can do with the extra original 500 NIMH D cells in my closet......
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
2 month 5000 mile update!

Still averaging 33 mpg per tank, 10% freeway 90% 45 mph city doing delivery.
I kept the awd system active and still kinda drive like a madman, but keep acceleration at 2400 rpm or below.
Can continuously give 100A for mud donuts, and regens 70A continuously I still need to ride down a mountain to see how high i can get that SOC
Cells have given me no trouble, I've even deep discharged them a couple times without issue
(key on, powering 12v accessories until <30% soc and contactors opened)

10/10 would absolutely recommend these cells.
 

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2020 Ttanium Hybrid/2009 Limited Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
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I noticed you haven’t had replies to your messages so wanted to chime in as a newbie to say thank you for these notes on you experience. I’ve got a 2010 MMH (Mariner) with 49k miles and am very excited about it, having a tinkerer’s mind.
Welcome Alex,
you'll find a lot of good information on this site. Since you've got such a low mileage vehicle, the only thing I would suggest for you to watch for is rust above the rear wheel wells on the rear quarter panels… Definitely an issue in the rust belt

you will need a hex head 3/8, or 1/2" driver kit that contains a 9 mm for the brake calipers… Not too many sets carry the nine.

your 12 V battery will only last about five years, six if you're lucky… When it fails your vehicle will throw a lot of Ghost codes.

look around where you live for a hybrid specific repair shop, often a much better option than a dealership.

Expect 200,000 miles with not much more than basic service. I will recommend as a first upgrade, slotted and drilled front rotors… These vehicles don't really have much of a low gear.

Not much of an issue if you live in a flat land ( :
 
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Welcome Alex,
you'll find a lot of good information on this site. Since you've got such a low mileage vehicle, the only thing I would suggest for you to watch for is rust above the rear wheel wells on the rear quarter panels… Definitely an issue in the rust belt

you will need a hex head 3/8, or 1/2" driver kit that contains a 9 mm for the brake calipers… Not too many sets carry the nine.

your 12 V battery will only last about five years, six if you're lucky… When it fails your vehicle will throw a lot of Ghost codes.

look around where you live for a hybrid specific repair shop, often a much better option than a dealership.

Expect 200,000 miles with not much more than basic service. I will recommend as a first upgrade, slotted and drilled front rotors… These vehicles don't really have much of a low gear.

Not much of an issue if you live in a flat land ( :
Thank you for the kind welcome and tips! I've wanted a 2nd generation FEH/MMH since at least 2015, when I first sent an email to my wife about it. That I've finally got one means I've read a fair bit about them, but I'm happy for the extra bits you provided. Thankfully I'm in Florida so not much rust threat here (at least from salt), and I bought it with only the slightest superficial rust in a few places underneath. It's quite flat here, too, but I'll keep that slotted and drilled rotors thought in mind.

I've got so many ideas I've bounced around about how to make it mine, but tops on the list will be fixing the non-functional Sync system. I've ruled out "reset" solutions involving lengthy battery disconnects and fuse pulls, so pretty much decided it's dead-dead. Doesn't show any signs of life, USB does nothing (no charging, no data, not recognized by phone or radio), AUX does nothing (radio doesn't think anything's connected), so I can either go to the trouble of replacing the unit and then begging a dealer to reflash the VIN, or I get a modern aftermarket unit, which I'm leaning strongly toward. If I can find the OEM sub/amp in a junk yard, I'll grab it for sure.

So many more ideas... I'm a car guy, bought this for the fuel economy but haven't lost the love of tinkering, however modern and intimidating it may be.
 

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2020 Ttanium Hybrid/2009 Limited Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
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[QUOTE="OrlandoAlex, post: 598880, member: 162032" get a modern aftermarket unit, which I'm leaning strongly toward. So many more ideas... however modern and intimidating it may be.
[/QUOTE]

I would strongly suggest getting an aftermarket head unit, but it sounds like you're having a power supply/ground issue maybe, if the USB port doesn't even charge your phone.

I would tell you to address the rust issues you've seen first. if you're not a body man, I would sand as best as you can, then use a product called rust converter as a base coat if sanding doesn't get it all.

try not to be intimidated, YouTube is another wonderful information source. The search option on this site is pretty useful.

I would strongly recommend getting an OBD II scanner, don't buy the cheapest one. A lot of people love FORScan, I use icarsoft i920... both are make specific, so if you're not tie dyed-in the Ford head… You may want something that is universal
 
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