If the nut is totally stripped and you have loosened it a few turns before stripping the nut, that may be a good thing. If you can manage to grip the stripped nut with vice-grips you may be able to turn the bolt head (at the other part side of the ball joint) while holding the nut with the vice grips. Some penetrating fluid may help here too (PB Blaster?). Work it back and forth. Don't try to remove it all at once. Little gains are what you're after in this touchy situation.

If that fails you may have to drill off the nut using successfully larger drill bits. Start by center popping the end of the bolt and drilling the bolt down past where the nut sits. As you move up in size to the thread diameter, the nut will fall off. Afterward, you will need to by a grade 8 bolt and locking nut of the same size.

Please post back with your results.

 

Thanks for your reply. I put some WD-40 on the nut and bolt and let it sit for a few hours. Then I finally got the bolt to move.

I used vice grips on the nut and put a jack stand under the vice grips to hold it while I turned the bolt, and I got it out.

Any idea where I can buy a replacement nut and bolt? I don't want to use the same ones again.

 

most likely any decent auto shop in your area.

 

Dang! I will have to see where the alternator is! That is crazy to take all that off! I am surprised it is on the bottom of the engine. Seems crazy for ford to put there since this is an off road suv and going through water will short it out.

 

Dang! I will have to see where the alternator is! That is crazy to take all that off! I am surprised it is on the bottom of the engine. Seems crazy for ford to put there since this is an off road suv and going through water will short it out.

Agreed.

I've read of plenty of instances of Escape alternators dying for exactly that reason. Usually happens when there's a lot of mud involved. "Touch wood"...hasn't happened to me yet. :thumb:

 

I go to Advance Auto when I need grade 8 bolts and nuts.

Knock on wood?

 

Another question. How do I get the ball joint out of the steering knuckle?

I can get it that far out, but then it won't move out any more.

 

Ok, you either need to put some leverage into the control arm and lower it or raise the steering knuckle (where the brake rotor and caliper are attached).

In the past I have just placed a small floor jack under the brake rotor and lifted it slightly. Caution: use a small chunk of wood between the jack and the rotor so as not to damage anything.

A long pry bar between the frame and the lower control arm may also give you enough leverage to force the control arm's ball joint out of the knuckle's pinch bore.

Again, please post back with your results.

Good luck.

 

Or you can hammer the knuckle and the ball joint is going to fall through.I am sorry I did not see your post yesterday.
But then again, as mentioned before , please inform us of your progress.

 

I gave up on getting the ball joint stud out of the knuckle. I just removed the two bolts on top of the steering knuckle.

I managed to remove the axle from the steering knuckle, but now I can't get it out of the intermediate shaft. How do I do this?

 

Since there is a circlip that keeps the halfshaft tight to the intermediate shaft you need to hammer on the halfsfaft and it will come off.There is also a special halfshaft removal tool in the market if you are interested.
ATTENTION:Make certain that the vehicle is securely standing on the supports.
On assemblying make sure you feel the locking of the circlip when you push the halfshaft back to the intermediate shaft.
Since you will have the intermediate shaft out check the condition of the bearing and the seal.
As for the knuckle and the ball joint you should try to separate them. It will make your life much easier when putting the stuff back.
When all is finished and you feel the allignment a bit off while driving it is something expected with the work you did so take it to a place to have it fixed.

 

Intermediate Halfshaft

To Remove:

NOTE: The intermediate shaft contains a pressed on bearing which can only be repaired as an assembly.

1. Remove the right side front halfshaft using the procedure above.
2. Locate and remove the two inner (intermediate) halfshaft bearing retainer nuts from the bracket.
3. Remove the inner (intermediate) halfshaft from the vehicle.
4. Use care to keep all parts as clean as possible. Protect the splined ends of the shafts and expect some transmission fluid to drain from the opening in the transmission case.

To Install:

To install, reverse the removal procedure, noting the following.
Tighten the two inner (intermediate) halfshaft bearing bracket retainer nuts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).

CAUTION
The splines on the ends of the shafts are sharp and can easily cut an oil seal. Handle with care.

 

I tried for more than an hour and I couldn't get the halfshaft out. Can I remove the intermediate shaft with the halfshaft still attached?

 

Yes, the intermediate and outer half shaft can be removed as a unit.

 

Is there a trick to removing the top bolt on the alternator? Its hard to get a wrench in there.

 

Is there a trick to removing the top bolt on the alternator? Its hard to get a wrench in there.

It is a little hard but a crescent shaped spanner should make it easier.
You are almost there.Do not give up.

 

Is there a trick to removing the top bolt on the alternator? Its hard to get a wrench in there.

I was using a small socket with an extension. I switched to a deep well socket with no extension and I was able to get the bolt out.

I finally just got the alternator out. I hope putting the new one in is easier than it was taking out the old one.

 

Your hard work is paying off.

We're all so proud of you (LOL).

You have saved yourself a few bucks labor costs. I know it's a pain , but well worth it.

Just trace your steps in reverse and you should be fine.

Again, let us know how you progress and just ask if you need any further help.

 

You have saved yourself a few bucks labor costs.

Yeah, a few HUNDRED bucks. :lol:

I got everything back together, and everything seems to work right. I don't want to drive it until I refill the transmission fluid. When I had the intermediate shaft out of the transmission a lot of fluid drained out of it.

How exactly do I refill the transmission fluid? I know that I fill it through the dipstick hole, but do I need to keep the engine running while I do it? Do I need to let the engine warm up first?

 

Allow me first of all to add my congratulations to Manic Mechanic' for having done what you did!!!
For a lot of oil to come out while taking the intermediate shaft out is indicative that your transmission was probably overfull.
CHECK TRANSMISSION OIL LEVEL.
1/Warm-up the engine
2/With the engine running and with the hand-break on, shift through all gears a couple of times, waiting at each one for at least five seconds before moving to the next one.
3/Turn the engine off
4/Check the fluid level by following the indications on the dipstick.Add, if needed with the appropriate transmission oil,ie Mercon or Mercon V.
That is all!!!Congratulations!!!
Many happy miles

 

Another day, another problem.

I was driving today and suddenly started to lose power when I was at a stop light. I was able to drive into a parking lot, and once I put the transmission in park, the engine shut off. When I tried to start the engine again, the battery was dead.

Luckily, I had a jump starter box with me and I was able to start the engine with that. I turned off the air conditioning and radio, and then it seemed to run fine. I drove to an Advance Auto Parts and had them test the alternator and this is the result:

Does anyone know what the problem might be? I'm thinking about just taking the car to a Ford dealer tomorrow and having them tell me what the problem is.

 

Definitely looks like an alternator issue.

Did you ever take a look at those connections on the alternator again after replacing it?

I believe one connection is a clip style (just push it in until it clicks) while the other is connected with a nut (heavy wire).

I would start my investigation there first.

Man, there you are putting it all back together and now this set back. What a pain!

 

Keep faith amigo.
I would do what manic said first.

 

Either a POS alternator (bad luck), or you have some wiring issues somwhere/short?
Connectors were cleaned prior to plugging back in?

 

What was wrong with the original alternator?

Did you ever have your charging system checked out prior to removing the original?

Regrettably, the new alternator may be a POS. Dang!

However, there may be something wrong with the chassis electrical that may not involve the alternator and just changing out the alternator will have no effect.

My bet is there is a bad diode in the new alternator as Advance Auto has pointed out in their diagnostics.

Sorry, everything seemed to be going so well up until the test drive.

Is it a new or refurbished alternator?