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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First I apologize for my ignorance. I don't know much about these things and I can't afford to bring my car to a shop.

The alternator completely died a few days ago on my 2002 Escape, and I'm trying to replace it myself. I'm at the point where I need to detach the control arm from the steering knuckle, so I can remove the drive axle. The pinch bolt is stuck and I can't get it to move at all. I got the nut to move a couple turns, but now it's totally stripped.

What do I do now?
 

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If the nut is totally stripped and you have loosened it a few turns before stripping the nut, that may be a good thing. If you can manage to grip the stripped nut with vice-grips you may be able to turn the bolt head (at the other part side of the ball joint) while holding the nut with the vice grips. Some penetrating fluid may help here too (PB Blaster?). Work it back and forth. Don't try to remove it all at once. Little gains are what you're after in this touchy situation.

If that fails you may have to drill off the nut using successfully larger drill bits. Start by center popping the end of the bolt and drilling the bolt down past where the nut sits. As you move up in size to the thread diameter, the nut will fall off. Afterward, you will need to by a grade 8 bolt and locking nut of the same size.

Please post back with your results.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your reply. I put some WD-40 on the nut and bolt and let it sit for a few hours. Then I finally got the bolt to move.

I used vice grips on the nut and put a jack stand under the vice grips to hold it while I turned the bolt, and I got it out.

Any idea where I can buy a replacement nut and bolt? I don't want to use the same ones again.
 

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Dang! I will have to see where the alternator is! That is crazy to take all that off! I am surprised it is on the bottom of the engine. Seems crazy for ford to put there since this is an off road suv and going through water will short it out.
 

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volleybiggs said:
Dang! I will have to see where the alternator is! That is crazy to take all that off! I am surprised it is on the bottom of the engine. Seems crazy for ford to put there since this is an off road suv and going through water will short it out.
Agreed.

I've read of plenty of instances of Escape alternators dying for exactly that reason. Usually happens when there's a lot of mud involved. "Touch wood"...hasn't happened to me yet. :thumb:
 

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I go to Advance Auto when I need grade 8 bolts and nuts.

Knock on wood?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Another question. How do I get the ball joint out of the steering knuckle?



I can get it that far out, but then it won't move out any more.
 

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Ok, you either need to put some leverage into the control arm and lower it or raise the steering knuckle (where the brake rotor and caliper are attached).

In the past I have just placed a small floor jack under the brake rotor and lifted it slightly. Caution: use a small chunk of wood between the jack and the rotor so as not to damage anything.

A long pry bar between the frame and the lower control arm may also give you enough leverage to force the control arm's ball joint out of the knuckle's pinch bore.

Again, please post back with your results.

Good luck.
 

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Or you can hammer the knuckle and the ball joint is going to fall through.I am sorry I did not see your post yesterday.
But then again, as mentioned before , please inform us of your progress.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I gave up on getting the ball joint stud out of the knuckle. I just removed the two bolts on top of the steering knuckle.

I managed to remove the axle from the steering knuckle, but now I can't get it out of the intermediate shaft. How do I do this?
 

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Since there is a circlip that keeps the halfshaft tight to the intermediate shaft you need to hammer on the halfsfaft and it will come off.There is also a special halfshaft removal tool in the market if you are interested.
ATTENTION:Make certain that the vehicle is securely standing on the supports.
On assemblying make sure you feel the locking of the circlip when you push the halfshaft back to the intermediate shaft.
Since you will have the intermediate shaft out check the condition of the bearing and the seal.
As for the knuckle and the ball joint you should try to separate them. It will make your life much easier when putting the stuff back.
When all is finished and you feel the allignment a bit off while driving it is something expected with the work you did so take it to a place to have it fixed.
 

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Intermediate Halfshaft

To Remove:

NOTE: The intermediate shaft contains a pressed on bearing which can only be repaired as an assembly.

1. Remove the right side front halfshaft using the procedure above.
2. Locate and remove the two inner (intermediate) halfshaft bearing retainer nuts from the bracket.
3. Remove the inner (intermediate) halfshaft from the vehicle.
4. Use care to keep all parts as clean as possible. Protect the splined ends of the shafts and expect some transmission fluid to drain from the opening in the transmission case.

To Install:

To install, reverse the removal procedure, noting the following.
Tighten the two inner (intermediate) halfshaft bearing bracket retainer nuts to 27 Nm (20 ft. lbs.).

CAUTION
The splines on the ends of the shafts are sharp and can easily cut an oil seal. Handle with care.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I tried for more than an hour and I couldn't get the halfshaft out. Can I remove the intermediate shaft with the halfshaft still attached?
 

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SPARTEN II said:
Is there a trick to removing the top bolt on the alternator? Its hard to get a wrench in there.
It is a little hard but a crescent shaped spanner should make it easier.
You are almost there.Do not give up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
SPARTEN II said:
Is there a trick to removing the top bolt on the alternator? Its hard to get a wrench in there.
I was using a small socket with an extension. I switched to a deep well socket with no extension and I was able to get the bolt out.

I finally just got the alternator out. I hope putting the new one in is easier than it was taking out the old one.
 

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Your hard work is paying off.

We're all so proud of you (LOL).

You have saved yourself a few bucks labor costs. I know it's a pain , but well worth it.

Just trace your steps in reverse and you should be fine.

Again, let us know how you progress and just ask if you need any further help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Manic Mechanic said:
You have saved yourself a few bucks labor costs.
Yeah, a few HUNDRED bucks. :lol:

I got everything back together, and everything seems to work right. I don't want to drive it until I refill the transmission fluid. When I had the intermediate shaft out of the transmission a lot of fluid drained out of it.

How exactly do I refill the transmission fluid? I know that I fill it through the dipstick hole, but do I need to keep the engine running while I do it? Do I need to let the engine warm up first?
 
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