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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. I did some minor maintenance work to my Escape XLT 02 w/ 3.0L Duratec about a week ago. I replaced the air filter, added windshield washer fluid, added some engine restorer oil to the crankcase to hopefully replendish some of the lost horsepower on my 70k engine, and lastly added a bottle of STP Complete Fuel System Cleaner to the fuel tank. I didn't notice until after I put the bottle in that it says to add to a full tank, I put it in with only about 3/8 to 1/2 full tank. Now just yesterday, my wife tells me that the engine warning light has illuminated. I checked the manual and it says when this light comes on, it usually means the fuel cap is loose or there is water in the tank. I filled the tank to full last nite thinking maybe the cleaner be poured in the tank when it wasn't full could be the culprit. Any other ideas? I'm gonna have her drive if for a day or so to see if the light goes off. I'm hoping the sensor was tripped from the cleaner. Thoughts or ideas? The engine idles great with no misfire or anything.
Dave
 

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We really can't guess unless we know what the code is. There should be some shops around your area who will read it for free.

By the way, no Escapes were ever made with a Vortec engine. We have the 3.0 L Duratec.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Oops, I changed to a Duratec. I don't know where I got the Vortec thing from. Maybe I'll take it over to Autozone and have them run a diagnostic on it. Will they do that for free? I think the dealer will charge like $75 right?
 

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Most places will charge for a diagnosis, but some places do read codes for free. The code itself will just tell you what the symptoms are.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
OK All -
Got the error code tonite at Autozone. The code is P0113 which is the IAT sensor (intake air temperature sensor). I should have mentioned that when I replaced the air filter, I converted from a cold air injection intake system which I had on it for 5 years. It ran fine for all that time but then recently, the truck seemed to have lost some horsepower and umph on hills and passing on highway. I thought maybe the filter was plugged or something and not letting enough air in, so I replaced with the original factory setup and got a new filter for the casing. The sensor on that whole setup that was used on both the cold air intake system and the factory one I believe is the MAF Sensor (Mass Air Flow sensor). Is that the same one as the IAT sensor in the code error? I didn't change anything on the sensor and it is going in the correct air flow direction. If its not the same, is the IAT sensor cheap and easy to replace? For now, I've disconnected the negative terminal and then put back on. The light is now off but if I need a new IAT sensor, I'd like to know. Thanx to everyone for their help. What do you all think?
 

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The IAT is integrated with the MAF on the Escape (they call it Integrated Bypass Technology, IBT). A P0113 code is usually caused by a loose or dirty connector. Unplug the connector and make sure everything is clean and dry. Plug it in again and make sure it is snug.
 

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Squishy said:
The IAT is integrated with the MAF on the Escape (they call it Integrated Bypass Technology, IBT). A P0113 code is usually caused by a loose or dirty connector. Unplug the connector and make sure everything is clean and dry. Plug it in again and make sure it is snug.
i second that opinion!!! did that to mine last summer after a full service
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Squishy said:
The IAT is integrated with the MAF on the Escape (they call it Integrated Bypass Technology, IBT). A P0113 code is usually caused by a loose or dirty connector. Unplug the connector and make sure everything is clean and dry. Plug it in again and make sure it is snug.
That sounds simple enough. I'll do that tonite. Someone on another site said to disassemble the MAF and clean it, and also look in the throttle body and clean that out. Getting access to the throttle body is not that quick though is it? Its more than just taking off the MAF sensor from the air inlet tube?
 

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I don't see how a dirty throttle body could cause an IAT code, but cleaning it won't hurt.

Here's a thread on cleaning the MAF: viewtopic.php?f=28&t=1167

Once you get the intake hose off, you will have access to the throttle body. You may have to remove the engine cover if you can't reach the throttle pivot to move the throttle plate. Spray the MAF with electrical cleaner and the throttle body with TB cleaner. I use an electric toothbrush on the throttle body to get it clean.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Squishy said:
I don't see how a dirty throttle body could cause an IAT code, but cleaning it won't hurt.

Here's a thread on cleaning the MAF: viewtopic.php?f=28&t=1167

Once you get the intake hose off, you will have access to the throttle body. You may have to remove the engine cover if you can't reach the throttle pivot to move the throttle plate. Spray the MAF with electrical cleaner and the throttle body with TB cleaner. I use an electric toothbrush on the throttle body to get it clean.
Thanx for the info!
 

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Whenever making drastic changes to the air intake (going from stock to WAI, or vice versa), it's best to remove the neg battery cable. Most instructions will state this as the first step.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
kkreit01 said:
Whenever making drastic changes to the air intake (going from stock to WAI, or vice versa), it's best to remove the neg battery cable. Most instructions will state this as the first step.
When I changed over from the CAI setup back to the stock one, I did have the battery totally out of the truck for a few hours in order to get the whole setup back in place so its should have reset itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Squishy said:
I don't see how a dirty throttle body could cause an IAT code, but cleaning it won't hurt.

Here's a thread on cleaning the MAF: viewtopic.php?f=28&t=1167

Once you get the intake hose off, you will have access to the throttle body. You may have to remove the engine cover if you can't reach the throttle pivot to move the throttle plate. Spray the MAF with electrical cleaner and the throttle body with TB cleaner. I use an electric toothbrush on the throttle body to get it clean.
Ok, finally got around to messing with this problem this morning. I bought some STP MAF cleaner and STP throttle body cleaner and also had some electrical contact cleaner in my inventory. I took everything apart and thoroughly cleaned the throttle body with the TB cleaner while opening and closing the valve thing. I'm satifisfied with the cleaning and I'm very picky. Then I cleaned the inside of the hoses of the air intake with a wet cloth to get rid of black residue. For the MAF, I didn't have one of those special security allen wrenches, but I was able to thoroughly spray the MAF cleaner on the sensor contacts. Let everything dry and dried off any excess. Also sprayed the harness and sensor electrical contacts with the electrical contact cleaner and wiped dry. I reassembled everything and starting the engine. I DID NOT disconnect the negative battery terminal (maybe I should have?). The light for the error remains on. I only drove it a few miles but the light does not go out. So here's what I'm thinking. Either I need to give it more time for the MAF sensor to readjust the fuel/air mixture ratio and clear the error code and cluster light, or maybe I need a brand new MAF sensor. If I need the sensor, what is the part # that I would need for an Escape XLT 2002 3.0L? Any ideas/comments are appreciated! Thanx.
 

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You should disconnect the battery to allow the code to reset itself. Otherwise it should stay on for several run cycles.

The part number for the MAF sensor is XF2Z-12B579-ABRM, $244.91.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Squishy said:
You should disconnect the battery to allow the code to reset itself. Otherwise it should stay on for several run cycles.

The part number for the MAF sensor is XF2Z-12B579-ABRM, $244.91.
Wow, expensive. I should be able to get one cheaper used and/on on ebay motors. That's alot for such a little piece of plastic with some electrical sensors!
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Squishy said:
You can just pull one from a junkyard, if you need one. Should be able to get it for about $50.
Engine light back on! WTF? I cleaned the throttle body and the MAF sensor, plus put a new air filter on. Drove it about 150 miles w/o the light coming on, but it came on today. Now what? Must it be the MAF sensor or something else that I can look at before taking in for service? What's the probability of an MAF sensor going bad at 70K?
 
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