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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I had another remote start to do yesterday in a 2008 Escape and thought I would do a writeup on it for anyone that is interested in doing something similar. I am a Code Alarm dealer so I chose a Pro CA501 model for this install (this is the same model I put in my Escape). It is a great unit that comes with 2-4 button remotes that will lock, unlock, crank (and kill), and trunk release-all from up to 1000 feet away. Ford uses a passive anti theft system (PATS) that requires a bypass unit. There are several companies that make bypass units, but some of them require you to give up a key that will stay in the bypass unit and at 50-75 dollars a key, that is a little hard to swallow. The units that I use require 2 keys to program, but you get to keep your keys. This is not a step by step-hook this wire to this wire writeup, I just wanted to give you an idea of what it takes to install a remote start/keyless entry unit in an 2008-2009 Escape.

Here is the RS and the bypass unit:


First take everything out and lay it out to see what all you have to work with:


Go ahead and plug in the assorted wiring harnesses:

Now STOP right there! Don't PANIC when you see all of those wires. The RS has about 25 wires and the bypass unit has 10 wires but you don't need to hook up EVERY wire. Remember that this is a universal kit and it will have some wires that you wont need and also some optional hookups that not everyone will need or want to install.

I like to pre-wire my installs before I get the vehicle as it makes the install go a lot faster. I also try to consolidate the wires, mount the bypass units together and clean up the overall look if the install. Even though not many people will see it, I do not want someone coming behind me and seeing a rats nest of wires under the dash. This also allows me cut the amount of wires to connect from 34 to only 11. Here is what the unit looks like ready for install:


Now we are ready to start the operation. First you need to drop the access panel below the steering column. Pull down near the top of the plastic panel and it will pivot downward for removal. Then remove the 4-10mm bolts on the metal panel to access the factory wiring harness:


You will also need to get the PATS unit around the key cylinder, so you will have to remove the 3 screws and split the steering column cover. This will split apart with a little pressure, but you might have to lower the tilt wheel to remove the top 2 pieces:


On the 2008+ Escape, there is a little pocket to the right of the steering column that is the perfect spot to zip-tie the RS/bapass unit in.

This is the perfect spot because it fits and because it allows you to run the wires along the factory wire loom and zip-tie for a factory look.

Now you will have to cut some of the factory loom off of the wiring harness to tap into the wires needed for the remote start:

(Note: After installation is complete, be sure to go back and zip-tie/split loom all of your wires and re-tape the factory loom for a stealth install.)

You will also have to run the door lock/unlock wires into the drivers side kick panel to hook up those wires as well as the wire for the rear glass, and hook up a wire to the brake switch. You will need to mount the antenna/programming switch/LED unit. This is an all in one unit that gives you the great range, allows you to program the unit and give you 2 blue LED's that flash like on an alarm unit. I normally install them in the center of the windshield just above the rear view mirror:


Now that you have all of the wires hooked up (minus the 2 bypass unit wires) you need to program the unit and test it to make sure you have everything hooked up correctly. After programming the unit, put one of your keys in the ignition and try remote starting the unit. (This allows you to remote start the vehicle BEFORE you wire up the bypass unit.) Once that is complete, you will take the 2 wires from the bypass unit and hook them to the PATS unit. Here is a picture of the bypass unit:


Take the time now to zip-tie all of the wires for a neat appearance and check everything one more time BEFORE you reinstall all of the panels. This is a great mod that is not too difficult to do and can be done with some basic tools and a volt meter. It will allow you to cool off the truck on a hot day or heat it up on a cold day.
 

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Thanks! Nice write-up!

IIRC, Code Alarm manufactures Ford's accessory remote start and/or alarm systems.
 

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i'm partial to my vipers and pythons... only because i'm an authorized directed electronics dealer and get them at an awesome price
 

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how much to send me a remote start for my 04 xlt? and my wifes 05 cobalt LT? (not sure of the model number for the wifes car, but its abase model, no power locks or power windows.)
 

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Code Alarm makes very cheap, very good stuff. That remote start unit looks simple for those "i dont want a bulk LCD" kinda of people.

Your writeup and install is very clean, sounds like u have experience with Escapes Remote Starts.

Quick question(s):
1) Do you tie together your 'Door Sensing' and 'Illumination' wires together?
2) IF you do, do the Escapes have delayed courtesy lights? (interferences with door sensing?)
3) Do the 08s have a 'Factory Re-Arm' wire, or do they use 'Door LOCK' for re-arming?
 

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I've always had a question about something like this....

I have a keyless entry pad on the outside of my Escape on the drivers door. I LOVE having that feature and don't want to lose it. Is it possible to still use it with this setup? It doesn't seem like it has an alarm with it so I am assuming that it would work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
slick9115 said:
Code Alarm makes very cheap, very good stuff. That remote start unit looks simple for those "i dont want a bulk LCD" kinda of people.

Your writeup and install is very clean, sounds like u have experience with Escapes Remote Starts.

Quick question(s):
1) Do you tie together your 'Door Sensing' and 'Illumination' wires together?
2) IF you do, do the Escapes have delayed courtesy lights? (interferences with door sensing?)
3) Do the 08s have a 'Factory Re-Arm' wire, or do they use 'Door LOCK' for re-arming?
This particular unit is just a Remote Start with keyless entry so you do not have to hook up the door trigger wires.

Scooter Scott said:
I've always had a question about something like this....

I have a keyless entry pad on the outside of my Escape on the drivers door. I LOVE having that feature and don't want to lose it. Is it possible to still use it with this setup? It doesn't seem like it has an alarm with it so I am assuming that it would work.
You are right, this unit will work in conjunction with the door pad and it remains functional. Some of the alarms actually have it so that the door pad will disarm the alarm without a remote.
 

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monkey-1 said:
This particular unit is just a Remote Start with keyless entry so you do not have to hook up the door trigger wires.
Does the car still have a security alarm of any sort? You said it has remote entry so you had to tie into the door lock/unlock wires. Most people arm their vehicle (press the lock button on transmitter) after they close all the doors and start to walk away. The car honks once if all doors are closed, twice if a door is open. But according to the Owner's Guide, the alarm will be set off only these ways:

Ford Escape Owner's Guide said:
Arming the System
When armed, this system will respond if unauthorized entry is attempted. When unauthorized entry occurs, the system will flash the hazard lamps, and will sound the horn.

The system is ready to arm whenever key is removed from the ignition. Either of the following actions will prearm the alarm system:
-Press the (LOCK) control on the remote entry transmitter.
-Lock the doors with the key in the key cylinder.
-Open the driver's door and press the power door lock control to lock all the doors, and then close the door.

When you lock the vehicle using any of the three methods above:
-the park lamps will flash once to indicate the hood, each door, and the liftgates are closed.
-the park lamps will NOT flash if the hood, any door or the liftegate are open. Once all doors, hood and liftgate are closed, the park lamps will flash to confirm the alarm has been set.

When you press the (LOCK) control on the remote entry transmitter twice within three seconds, the horn will chirp once to confirm the doors, hood and liftgate are closed and locked and the alarm is set.

Triggering the anti-theft system
The armed system will be triggered if any door, liftgate or the hood is opened without using the key or the remote entry transmitter.
If the aftermarket alarm system (LOCK) button is like pressing the lock button on the inside of the door, then you would have to arm it:
1) after you took the key out the ignition
2) before you close the door and walk away

...and to open it you would have to use a key every time since you obviously couldn't press the lock button on the inside of the door if you were on the outside.

Also, how does it rearm once the remote start shutsdown (timed or manually)? According to http://webappshttp.voxdmz.audiovox.com:1025/manuals/installation/CA500_DOC_IM.pdf it states:

BLACK w/RED: Pulsed Ground Output After Shutdown
The BLACK w/RED wire will provide a 1second 300mA pulsed ground output after the Remote Start system
shuts down. This output will occur regardless of whether the circuit times out or is manually terminated.
Typically this output will be used to re-lock the vehicle doors if the doors unlock automatically when the ignition
circuit transitions to OFF
So basically it would lock after the key is pulled out, but before the door is opened... not allowing the stock alarm to be activated.

I have a headache reading wiring diagrams and imagining pulsing scenarios...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK man, you are asking several questions so lets answer them one at a time. This unit works in conjunction with the factory system and therefore does not need to be tied to the door pins (or dome light supervision). The factory system still operates just as before.

BLACK w/RED: Pulsed Ground Output After Shutdown
The BLACK w/RED wire will provide a 1second 300mA pulsed ground output after the Remote Start system
shuts down. This output will occur regardless of whether the circuit times out or is manually terminated.
Typically this output will be used to re-lock the vehicle doors if the doors unlock automatically when the ignition
circuit transitions to OFF
This refers to when the REMOTE START cranks the vehicle. Some vehicles need to be relocked when it is shut off. This is only for when the remote start cranks the vehicle and then the preset run time expires. It will relock the doors when the RS shuts down and is rarely hooked up on Ford vehicles.
 

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Gotcha, I went on another one of my rants.

So, I know that you don't tie into door triggers/dome illumination. Does the factory alarm (if there was one) still sound the alarm if the doors are opened without using the the unlocked button... assuming the window were busted, lock switched turned, and door opened.
 

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I just installed the viper remote start 5101 on a 2007 escape and was wondering if you could help.The vehicle has factory keyless entry and alarm.The remote start function is working.The door locks lock and unlock with the viper remote but the alarm does not arm. I know the alarm does work because it arms with the factory remote. And also is there a way to get the door locks to work like the factory remote meaning one press of the unlock button will only unlock the drivers door and 2 presses will unlock the rest. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
slick9115 said:
Gotcha, I went on another one of my rants.

So, I know that you don't tie into door triggers/dome illumination. Does the factory alarm (if there was one) still sound the alarm if the doors are opened without using the the unlocked button... assuming the window were busted, lock switched turned, and door opened.
I would have to guess that my Escape does not have a factory alarm as I cannot get it to set with the factory remote.
 

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Hey Monkey a little off topic, but I just seen that you are from Bolton. I live in Byram, and work in Jackson. I wouldn't be suprised if you don't see me running around sometime. I was actually driving through Bolton a couple months ago when I was out driving the country roads looking for photo ops. I'll keep and eye out for ya.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Jeff M said:
Hey Monkey a little off topic, but I just seen that you are from Bolton. I live in Byram, and work in Jackson. I wouldn't be suprised if you don't see me running around sometime. I was actually driving through Bolton a couple months ago when I was out driving the country roads looking for photo ops. I'll keep and eye out for ya.
I will keep an eye out for you! You do the same, there arent many Escapes with flames on them.
 

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When getting this system is there schematics or directions to install, cause I am interested in pursuing this at a later time (soon)
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
oskerb said:
When getting this system is there schematics or directions to install, cause I am interested in pursuing this at a later time (soon)
No, the schematic does not come with the RS unit. If you buy from certain people you can get a wire by wire breakdown and even a prewired unit ready for install.
 
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