[monkey-1]

I had another remote start to do yesterday in a 2008 Escape and thought I would do a writeup on it for anyone that is interested in doing something similar. I am a Code Alarm dealer so I chose a Pro CA501 model for this install (this is the same model I put in my Escape). It is a great unit that comes with 2-4 button remotes that will lock, unlock, crank (and kill), and trunk release-all from up to 1000 feet away. Ford uses a passive anti theft system (PATS) that requires a bypass unit. There are several companies that make bypass units, but some of them require you to give up a key that will stay in the bypass unit and at 50-75 dollars a key, that is a little hard to swallow. The units that I use require 2 keys to program, but you get to keep your keys. This is not a step by step-hook this wire to this wire writeup, I just wanted to give you an idea of what it takes to install a remote start/keyless entry unit in an 2008-2009 Escape.

Here is the RS and the bypass unit:

First take everything out and lay it out to see what all you have to work with:

Go ahead and plug in the assorted wiring harnesses:

Now STOP right there! Don't PANIC when you see all of those wires. The RS has about 25 wires and the bypass unit has 10 wires but you don't need to hook up EVERY wire. Remember that this is a universal kit and it will have some wires that you wont need and also some optional hookups that not everyone will need or want to install.

I like to pre-wire my installs before I get the vehicle as it makes the install go a lot faster. I also try to consolidate the wires, mount the bypass units together and clean up the overall look if the install. Even though not many people will see it, I do not want someone coming behind me and seeing a rats nest of wires under the dash. This also allows me cut the amount of wires to connect from 34 to only 11. Here is what the unit looks like ready for install:

Now we are ready to start the operation. First you need to drop the access panel below the steering column. Pull down near the top of the plastic panel and it will pivot downward for removal. Then remove the 4-10mm bolts on the metal panel to access the factory wiring harness:

You will also need to get the PATS unit around the key cylinder, so you will have to remove the 3 screws and split the steering column cover. This will split apart with a little pressure, but you might have to lower the tilt wheel to remove the top 2 pieces:

On the 2008+ Escape, there is a little pocket to the right of the steering column that is the perfect spot to zip-tie the RS/bapass unit in.

This is the perfect spot because it fits and because it allows you to run the wires along the factory wire loom and zip-tie for a factory look.

Now you will have to cut some of the factory loom off of the wiring harness to tap into the wires needed for the remote start:

(Note: After installation is complete, be sure to go back and zip-tie/split loom all of your wires and re-tape the factory loom for a stealth install.)

You will also have to run the door lock/unlock wires into the drivers side kick panel to hook up those wires as well as the wire for the rear glass, and hook up a wire to the brake switch. You will need to mount the antenna/programming switch/LED unit. This is an all in one unit that gives you the great range, allows you to program the unit and give you 2 blue LED's that flash like on an alarm unit. I normally install them in the center of the windshield just above the rear view mirror:

Now that you have all of the wires hooked up (minus the 2 bypass unit wires) you need to program the unit and test it to make sure you have everything hooked up correctly. After programming the unit, put one of your keys in the ignition and try remote starting the unit. (This allows you to remote start the vehicle BEFORE you wire up the bypass unit.) Once that is complete, you will take the 2 wires from the bypass unit and hook them to the PATS unit. Here is a picture of the bypass unit:

Take the time now to zip-tie all of the wires for a neat appearance and check everything one more time BEFORE you reinstall all of the panels. This is a great mod that is not too difficult to do and can be done with some basic tools and a volt meter. It will allow you to cool off the truck on a hot day or heat it up on a cold day.

 

[monkey-1]

Thanks! Nice write-up!

IIRC, Code Alarm manufactures Ford's accessory remote start and/or alarm systems.

Thanks man. And yes, Code Alarm does make the Ford systems.

 

[monkey-1]

how much to send me a remote start for my 04 xlt? and my wifes 05 cobalt LT? (not sure of the model number for the wifes car, but its abase model, no power locks or power windows.)

Email or PM me and we can discuss that. studmonkey at bellsouth dot net.

 

[monkey-1]

Code Alarm makes very cheap, very good stuff. That remote start unit looks simple for those "i dont want a bulk LCD" kinda of people.

Your writeup and install is very clean, sounds like u have experience with Escapes Remote Starts.

Quick question(s):
1) Do you tie together your 'Door Sensing' and 'Illumination' wires together?
2) IF you do, do the Escapes have delayed courtesy lights? (interferences with door sensing?)
3) Do the 08s have a 'Factory Re-Arm' wire, or do they use 'Door LOCK' for re-arming?

This particular unit is just a Remote Start with keyless entry so you do not have to hook up the door trigger wires.

I've always had a question about something like this....

I have a keyless entry pad on the outside of my Escape on the drivers door. I LOVE having that feature and don't want to lose it. Is it possible to still use it with this setup? It doesn't seem like it has an alarm with it so I am assuming that it would work.

You are right, this unit will work in conjunction with the door pad and it remains functional. Some of the alarms actually have it so that the door pad will disarm the alarm without a remote.

 

[monkey-1]

OK man, you are asking several questions so lets answer them one at a time. This unit works in conjunction with the factory system and therefore does not need to be tied to the door pins (or dome light supervision). The factory system still operates just as before.

BLACK w/RED: Pulsed Ground Output After Shutdown
The BLACK w/RED wire will provide a 1second 300mA pulsed ground output after the Remote Start system
shuts down. This output will occur regardless of whether the circuit times out or is manually terminated.
Typically this output will be used to re-lock the vehicle doors if the doors unlock automatically when the ignition
circuit transitions to OFF

This refers to when the REMOTE START cranks the vehicle. Some vehicles need to be relocked when it is shut off. This is only for when the remote start cranks the vehicle and then the preset run time expires. It will relock the doors when the RS shuts down and is rarely hooked up on Ford vehicles.

 

[monkey-1]

Gotcha, I went on another one of my rants.

So, I know that you don't tie into door triggers/dome illumination. Does the factory alarm (if there was one) still sound the alarm if the doors are opened without using the the unlocked button... assuming the window were busted, lock switched turned, and door opened.

I would have to guess that my Escape does not have a factory alarm as I cannot get it to set with the factory remote.

 

[monkey-1]

Hey Monkey a little off topic, but I just seen that you are from Bolton. I live in Byram, and work in Jackson. I wouldn't be suprised if you don't see me running around sometime. I was actually driving through Bolton a couple months ago when I was out driving the country roads looking for photo ops. I'll keep and eye out for ya.

I will keep an eye out for you! You do the same, there arent many Escapes with flames on them.

 

[monkey-1]

When getting this system is there schematics or directions to install, cause I am interested in pursuing this at a later time (soon)

No, the schematic does not come with the RS unit. If you buy from certain people you can get a wire by wire breakdown and even a prewired unit ready for install.