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I have a early 09 Escape, the temperature is 34 F and snowing. My escape has not been started for 3-4 days. (Temp was higher days before, low 50s) Went to start it today and it acted like I had a weak Battery, although all lights did not seem to be in the least bit dim. Has anyone else had this happen?
This is a mild cold what will happen when it gets to 10 F or less.
 

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i notice that normally my 05 usually starts after a few cranks.
but in colder weather, the starts take more cranks. the colder the weather the more cranks it takes and more it seems like i have a weak battery even though i just replaced it. might just be because the engine is so cold but im not sure.
 

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It was 23*F here this morning and the Tribbie started right up.

I dunno what is the issue with yours. Should just fire right off, same as if it's warm. Or nearly so.

Have you been putting in the winter viscosity oil? Or still have the summer blend? If your still on summer blend, it maybe too thick. That's the only thing I can think of. :shrug:
 

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Batteries have less CCA when it is colder; I think the internal resistance builds up. Add to that the thicker oil and many cars have a hard time in the winter. The battery should still be good in your 2009 unless you have run it dead in the past. You can switch to a 0W-20 or 0W-30 oil to prepare for the cold and use the block heater if you have one - I run 0W-30 all year and also get my battery tested every September.
 

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Breensy said:
sorry for my ignorance... so 5w 30 isnt good for the winter? ive always just stuck with 5w30.
I live in eastern Ontario and always use 5w30. I commute 220km round trip per day and always use this viscosity and I have never had an issue. I will only use synthetic oil as it allows me to drive 10,0000km between oil changes.
 

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I would suggest staying with the oil that is recommended for your 2009. Is it 5w-20 for the 2009's? Sounds like you might have a weak battery since it isn't that cold yet.
 

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5W-30 is good for most winters, but all oils will get thicker in the cold, making it harder for the engine to turn over. We have a couple of days a year where it gets below -40C, so I run 0W-30 to be safe. Most Ford engines now use semi-synthetic 5W-20 from the factory, and I plan on switching to 0W-20 once my current case runs out.
 

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My Escape took 3 turns of the key before it started this morning. It cranked hard so it was not an issue with the battery. I think it had to do with fuel delivery.

I hadn't driven it since Saturday night. Saturday night it was 30 degrees F. Yesterday it was maybe 36 F. This morning it was 26 F. I put the key in and turned. It cranked but didn't fire. Turned it again and it did the same thing. The third time, I took the key out, put it back in, turned the key to "RUN" but didn't try to start it. I heard the fuel pump charge and waited for it to finish. Then I cranked it again. This time it fired right up.

This will sometimes happen to me in warm weather as well. I'm too quick with the key and I don't give the fuel pump a chance to get ready to start. Sometimes it starts fine. Other times it acts fuel starved. But... I haven't had an issue when I remember to turn the key to "RUN" and wait 2 or three seconds before I try to start it.
 

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I always turn the key to RUN first while I put on my seatbelt. The fuel pump check valve always seems to leak off a bit of pressure after more than a day of sitting. Ever since I started doing that, the Escape has never turned the engine over more than twice to start.
 

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Squishy said:
I always turn the key to RUN first while I put on my seatbelt.
I try to remember to do this but sometimes I'm in a hurry and forget.... like this morning. The wait while putting on the seatbelt idea is a good one. I'll see if I can remember to do this. This morning, I went out to start the Escape to let it warm up a little since it was covered in frost. It wasn't my normal routine. That probably added to my forgetting...
 

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I didn't know that about the fuel pump in the RUN position. I'll remember that. Luckily, my Escape's been starting up pretty easily, so hopefully the streak continues *knock on wood*.
 

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RobtRoma said:
This will sometimes happen to me in warm weather as well. I'm too quick with the key and I don't give the fuel pump a chance to get ready to start. Sometimes it starts fine. Other times it acts fuel starved. But... I haven't had an issue when I remember to turn the key to "RUN" and wait 2 or three seconds before I try to start it.
This latter issue in the warm weather maybe a vaporlock condition. Where the underhood temperature is so high it is actually vaporizing the fuel in the line. Same cure, turn it to on, and wait for the pump to pressurize the system. It doesn't totally negate the vapor effects, but it helps. Todays' cheap gas and required emission systems generated heat are the issue.

I have similar issues with the Bullitt whenever it is particularly hot outside.
 

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jonas1022 said:
RobtRoma said:
This will sometimes happen to me in warm weather as well. I'm too quick with the key and I don't give the fuel pump a chance to get ready to start. Sometimes it starts fine. Other times it acts fuel starved. But... I haven't had an issue when I remember to turn the key to "RUN" and wait 2 or three seconds before I try to start it.
This latter issue in the warm weather maybe a vaporlock condition. Where the underhood temperature is so high it is actually vaporizing the fuel in the line. Same cure, turn it to on, and wait for the pump to pressurize the system. It doesn't totally negate the vapor effects, but it helps. Todays' cheap gas and required emission systems generated heat are the issue.

I have similar issues with the Bullitt whenever it is particularly hot outside.
As I recall, vapor lock can't happen on a fuel injected engine.
 

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Vapor lock is rare but not impossible. The high-pressure fuel pump and the fact that gasoline is now less volatile both help prevent vapor lock, but I guess anything is possible in the Texas heat. :D

I actually had a Neon air lock on me. Took me a while to figure that one out. My roommate had run out of gas, but the sending unit was gummed up and reported a half tank full when she pulled in. In reality, she only had a few litres left and the slope of the driveway made the pump suck in air before she shut it off. Couldn't start the next day, insisted she had "half a tank," and had me pulling spark plugs and checking sensors. Diagnosis was further hampered after the car still failed to start after adding a jerry can ("I told you it had gas!") - finally bled the fuel lines and off she went.
 

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Could a hard start not be attributed to the engine sitting for a few days? If the oil has mostly drined from the upper block & head than the first few turns of the crank will be met with a touch more resistance than normal.

Also - it is highly possible that you got a bad battery (if the hard start / weak start condition persist's.) The only reason I mention this is because mass production situations it's possible that 1 bad part makes it through the random sampling of quality checks.

But if the hard starting stops than you can attribute it the block just being cold (metal shrinks when it's cold and decreases tollerances) and in that case it's perfectly normal.

You should hear my Jeep starting up when it's cold outside. For about 15 seconds it sounds like it's going to explode. It's been doing that since I bought it new back in 2002.
 

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Squishy said:
I always turn the key to RUN first while I put on my seatbelt. The fuel pump check valve always seems to leak off a bit of pressure after more than a day of sitting. Ever since I started doing that, the Escape has never turned the engine over more than twice to start.
i do the same thing with every fuel injected vehicle i drive, turn the key for a few seconds before cranking, on my bikes i actually wait for the fuel pump to shut off.
 

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Squishy said:
I always turn the key to RUN first while I put on my seatbelt. The fuel pump check valve always seems to leak off a bit of pressure after more than a day of sitting. Ever since I started doing that, the Escape has never turned the engine over more than twice to start.
This is good advice for a cold start.

I also just installed a oil pan heater and that has helped a crap load...but at work there is not power outlet available in the ramp :( so starting the escape after work it does crank a little.
 
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