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This problem is related to the 2010 Escape Limited, 3.0 V-6 but other years and models are probably included. The National Highway Traffic Safety Board complaint site lists multiple instances of this problem. This vehicle has a drive-by-wire electronic throttle instead of the older throttle cable. You may be driving or idling when the dash wrench light comes on and the engine will not accelerate. The engine has to be stopped and restarted after a minute so the computer can reboot. The cause of this is a defective throttle body (TB). The airflow valve will be sticking or the sensor motor on the TB may be sending corrupt data to the computer. You will find either a P2112 or P2111 code, or both. The fix is to replace the throttle body. The cost of the TB part is $130 - $140 locally if not covered under warranty. Labor charge to install varies.
 

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Hi Y'all!

My ABS and Traction control lights are both on nearly constantly on my 2009 XLS. The mechanic wants to charge me $150 to scan it, but I can't help but wonder if it's a common problem. Anyone else had trouble like this? If so, what did you do about it?

Thanks,
KV
 

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[Rank amateur here]
Read up on toner rings in the Escape/Mariner. The toner ring is a toothed ring on each axle which allows the ABS sensor to determine the rotation of the axle. My ABS light came on and it turned out to be the front driver side toner ring. It had snapped and rotated freely on the axle. It's only a few dollars to buy a replacement but a couple hours to replace. Ford will want to replace the entire axle. This is a very common problem already mentioned in this thread.
 

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RE: transmission shudder
the older 4 speed transmissions utilize a valve body with internal springs and check balls
if the transmission fluid and filter are not changed out at regular intervals , the check ball springs become clogged with debris thus preventing them from fully opening
:: these check balls and springs are what allows the tranny to smoothly change gears
just having these 2 items replaced will not clean the debris from the check ball springs , the oil pan must be removed so the valve body can be unbolted and thoroughly cleaned along with the check ball springs

also in some rare cases - it could also be the torque converter failing - torque converters have been known to crack allowing the fluid to leak out
( yes torque converters have transmission fluid inside them )

RE: rough idle / stalling at idle
the idle air controller has a small port controlled by a little motor that allows air into the engine at idle ( the main butterlfy valve is closed during idle )
the port will eventually become clogged / partially clogged with carbon deposits
REMEDY: remove IAC , dip a small bristle brush into a cup containing seafoam to clean out the small air port

RE: vacuum brake booster
hearing a hissing sound inside the cabin
REMEDY: the rubber vacuum hose leading from the intake manifold to the vacuum brake booster has micro cracks in it , that is allowing engine air vacuum to escape
2 ways 1/ wrap the hose tightly with electrical tape for a temporary fix 2/ replace brake booster vacuum hose

in some rare cases : the rubber diafram inside the brake booster has ruptured resulting in pedal to floor issue

i hope this helps people with their certain vehicle issues
 

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2010Tan4Door said:
This problem is related to the 2010 Escape Limited, 3.0 V-6 but other years and models are probably included. The National Highway Traffic Safety Board complaint site lists multiple instances of this problem. This vehicle has a drive-by-wire electronic throttle instead of the older throttle cable. You may be driving or idling when the dash wrench light comes on and the engine will not accelerate. The engine has to be stopped and restarted after a minute so the computer can reboot. The cause of this is a defective throttle body (TB). The airflow valve will be sticking or the sensor motor on the TB may be sending corrupt data to the computer. You will find either a P2112 or P2111 code, or both. The fix is to replace the throttle body. The cost of the TB part is $130 - $140 locally if not covered under warranty. Labor charge to install varies.
not exactly the throttle body itself , it is the throttle position sensor itself that is bolted to the throttle body that needs replacing
 

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So I've done some homework (reading around these forums and the internet) on transmission fluid and the "Transmission shudder around 40 MPH" problem. I'd like some opinions on my situation. Here's what I know:

- It's the gf's car; she bought it used with 16,000 miles on it.
- 2009 Escape with Mercon LV installed by the factory, 6F35 auto transmission
- There is a shudder in the gas pedal at 42 MPH
- Trans Fluid Service history is:
6/29/10 (25,000 miles) - tech noted "dark" transmission fluid
2/7/12 (40,500 miles) - transmission fluid flushed, Ford used their Mercon LV, part#XT-10-QLVC
7/3/12 (46,500 miles) - tech noted "dark" transmission fluid
7/23/12 (47,400 miles) - different tech had no comment about the fluid after performing the "multi point inspection"

Here are my questions:

1. Should I be surprised that a tech thought the fluid was "dark" 5 months, and 6000 miles after it was replaced?
2. Do these shudder stop products work for "shudders" of this kind? Dr. Tranny has a "Fixx" product, and they say on their website, "For use in ANY automatic transmission fluid. Not for use in Ford Type F or CVT applications".....what does that mean?
3. All the discussion about what kind of fluid to use is moot in my case because it came from the factory with Mercon LV, right? The best product to use going forward for me is the same stuff they filled it with last Feb?
4. I've read several accounts where people have had the shudder disappear after a fluid change. Is it possible a shudder at 42 MPH is permanent because of physical damage (possibly the result of waiting too long to change the fluid)?

Thanks everyone.
 

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hermie said:
2010Tan4Door said:
This problem is related to the 2010 Escape Limited, 3.0 V-6 but other years and models are probably included. The National Highway Traffic Safety Board complaint site lists multiple instances of this problem. This vehicle has a drive-by-wire electronic throttle instead of the older throttle cable. You may be driving or idling when the dash wrench light comes on and the engine will not accelerate. The engine has to be stopped and restarted after a minute so the computer can reboot. The cause of this is a defective throttle body (TB). The airflow valve will be sticking or the sensor motor on the TB may be sending corrupt data to the computer. You will find either a P2112 or P2111 code, or both. The fix is to replace the throttle body. The cost of the TB part is $130 - $140 locally if not covered under warranty. Labor charge to install varies.
not exactly the throttle body itself , it is the throttle position sensor itself that is bolted to the throttle body that needs replacing
My eyes must be bad, I don't see any sensor bolted onto the TB.
 

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nfdude04 said:
I was lucky and was able to catch the window as it fell when I opened it. My sister on the other hand was not so lucky. She took hers to a Ford dealership and had the window replaced. They told her it was a common problem due to all the salt they use on the roads corrodes the small metal piece that goes threw the glass on the hinge.
My rear window shattered back a couple years ago. I had just gotten home from work (1 hour drive, was winter), was in the house for about 30 mins and I actually heard it shatter outside. I've been told it was bad glass that Ford used for a while, that when heated and cooled enough times, will just shatter.
 

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Has anyone seen the list on Autozone for the 2010 escape? Some of them are ones mentioned.

Title Number Date
SYNC(R) System - Loud Incoming Telephone Call Volume 12-4-10 04/20/2012
Body - Liftgate Difficult To Open Or Close 12-4-3 04/05/2012
Emissions - MIL ON/Multiple EVAP DTC's Set 12-3-19 03/30/2012
Windows/Glass - Intermittent Liftgate Glass Water Leaks 12-2-2 02/03/2012
A/T Controls - Harsh 1-2 Shift/2-3 Shift Flare 11-12-8 12/22/2011
A/T - Fluid Leak At L/H Axle Shaft Seal 11-11-30 12/07/2011
Navigation Radio - Sirius Radio Update Process Failure 11-11-16 11/18/2011
Engine/Charging - Drone/Rattle At 1300-1400 RPM 11-10-26 10/27/2011
Engine Controls - MIL ON/Multiple DTC's Set 11-10-5 10/10/2011
A/C - White Flakes/Powder Blow From Dash Vents 11-9-6 09/14/2011
A/T 6F35- Hoot Noise On Low Speed Acceleration 11-7-23 07/22/2011
Vehicle - Flat Towing (4 Wheels On Ground) Information 11-7-15 07/12/2011
Restraints - Front Seat Belt(s) Slow To Retract 11-6-13 06/24/2011
Starting System - Int. No Crank/No Start/No DTC's 11-4-2 04/27/2011
Emissions - Driveability Issues With/Without/MIL/DTC's 11-3-22 03/16/2011
Body - Front/Rear Door Window Noise/Glass Scratched 11-2-15 02/28/2011
Body - Liftgate Window Glass Breakage 11-2-9 02/07/2011
Engine - Hard Start/Rough Idle/DTC's P0016/P052A/B 11-2-10 02/07/2011
Body - Front Door Window Exterior Weatherstrip Deformed 10-25-4 12/23/2010
SYNC(R) System - Poor Cell Phone Audio Quality 10-25-12 12/23/2010
Body/Frame - Front/Rear Squeak/Creak Noises 10-22-8 11/22/2010
A/T Control - Harsh Shift/Upshift Flare/Harsh Engagement 10-21-9 11/08/2010
Steering - Squeak/Rub Noise When Turning Steering Wheel 10-20-12 10/25/2010
Steering - Steering Wheel Nibble In Cold Temps 10-18-8 09/27/2010
Instruments - Illumination Variation/Flickering 10-16-3 08/30/2010
Wipers/Washers - Washer Nozzles Leak Fluid Onto Hood 10-13-1 07/19/2010
Steering - Steering Column Pop/Clunk On Turns 10-13-2 07/19/2010
Audio System - Poor Radio Reception/Sound Quality 10-13-3 07/19/2010
SYNC(R) System - No Turn-By-Turn Directions 10-13-4 07/19/2010
Engine, A/T Controls - MIL/Stuck In 5th Gear/DTC's Set 10-12-12 07/05/2010
Recall - A/T Parking Pawl Pin Missing 10C12 05/21/2010
Recall 10V222000: A/T Park Pawl Retention Rod NHTSA10V222000 05/21/2010
Campaign - ECM Update For A/T Durability 10B15 04/19/2010
Navigation Radio - Various Navigation/Audio Concerns 10-6-3 04/12/2010
SYNC(R) System - Defaults To 'Privacy Mode' 10-2-8 02/15/2010
A/T 6F35 - DTC P0720/P0722/Harsh Engagement/Shifts 10-1-7 02/01/2010
Parking Assist - Incorrect Parking Space Recognition 09-26-4 01/04/2010
Steering/Suspension - Front End Click/Pop On Bumps 09-24-2 12/14/2009
Body - Exterior Door Handle(s) Hard T0 Open/Not Flush 09-24-7 12/14/2009
Engine Controls - MIL ON/DTC P2135/P2111/P0122 09-23-5 11/30/2009
Steering/Ignition - Ign. Key Binds In Ign. Cylinder 09-19-15 10/05/2009
 

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2013 2.0 vibrations at idle. Sitting in traffic with unit in gear, I have vibration. When returned to neutral, engine smooth's out. This small vibe. drives me insane! Has anyone had this problem with their 2013 2.0?
 

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coldbear said:
2013 2.0 vibrations at idle. Sitting in traffic with unit in gear, I have vibration. When returned to neutral, engine smooth's out. This small vibe. drives me insane! Has anyone had this problem with their 2013 2.0?
Hi coldbear,

Have you talked to your dealer about this concern? I'd like to see how I can assist. Shoot me a private message with your VIN, mileage, dealer name/location, your best daytime phone number, and your full name.

Meagan
 

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I have a 2001 Ford Escape. I have a couple problems...1st I have a loud rattling in the front of my escape, sounds like it's coming from underneath the left side. I think it may be my struts or ball joints from other posts I've read. 2nd when it's cold my car likes to shake and not go fast. 3rd my sunroof stopped working like two years ago, think it might be the switch there's no noise or anything seeming like it's trying to work. Finally, and the most annoying, my roof leaks! Every time it rains the inside of my car gets wet! It comes through the top and all gathers at the center of my liner which is sagging. And it drips right on me on the front seat on the driver side. On the left side front side of my visor water just drips right on me! Any one know any solutions to these problems?!?!
 

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Yep, mine does it too. Dealer says "it is normal..." It may just be a 4 cylinder thing, though... Interestingly, it has gotten worse as the mileage has increased...

coldbear said:
2013 2.0 vibrations at idle. Sitting in traffic with unit in gear, I have vibration. When returned to neutral, engine smooth's out. This small vibe. drives me insane! Has anyone had this problem with their 2013 2.0?
 

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Tomt said:
Yep, mine does it too. Dealer says "it is normal..." It may just be a 4 cylinder thing, though... Interestingly, it has gotten worse as the mileage has increased...
Hi Tomt,

I'd like to look into this a bit more. Shoot me a private message with your VIN, mileage, dealer name/location, your best daytime phone number, and your full name.

Meagan
 

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I have a 09' XLT V6 I'm having an issue with the vanity mirror lights. I had no idea until the girlfriend got in and complained that they didn't work. Is there a fuse for them that might be blown as it doesn't say anything in the owner's manual about the lights. The other interior lights work fine no problems.
 

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PollKat said:
Great Job! Let's not forget the DPFE sensor. Wonder how many bought a EGR valve. Just to find out, that wasn't the problem....
We just did the DPFE sensor, as that is the more common culprit to the P0401 code ... that didn't do it ... pulled the egr and checked operation by applying vacuum ... the little piston/valve moved, but was slightly dirty ... cleaned with throttle body cleaner and q-tip, still no joy ... then realized that the 6" long vacuum line going to the egr was pretty crumbly ... replaced that hose, and it is all fine now!

Sometimes it is the simple things we overlook!
 

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Kathy said:
Hi everyone, I'm new to this site so I apologize if I'm posting my question in the wrong spot. I could not figure out how to get back to the Q & A section of this website.
Hi Cathy...

First... Welcome to E-C!

Second... I'm going to move your question to a more appropriate location on the board under the Problems and Solutions section where it will get more views. I'll post a link here when I'm done.

*** EDIT ***
Here is the link to the new post:

Random High Pitched 3-tone Beeping from Dashboard

Good luck getting it fixed :peace:
 

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RyanRage said:
Rear Hatch actuator.. The hatch won't lock or unlock from the remote or power locks inside the vehicle. If It's locked, you have to peel off the top of the trim pannel and unlock it manualy. You can either order the assembaly from ford.. Or you can order an aftermatket actuator online.
I did not read through the entire thread but my 'quick fix' for this was to carefully take apart the lock actuator by prying on the seam of the housing for the mechanism and gaining access to the motor. Take the plastic end of the motor off to access the thermal resistor(little black square) and bypassing it with aluminum. Regrease and reassemble. This is the same fix used on Ford Mustang door lock actuators.

Hope it helps!
 
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