yeah this is definatly open cell foam. for the time being it is kept very dry and i will look into replacing it. the only reason i went with this is because during my dynamat search i was deciding between no name dyna for half price or the real dynamat. and a audio guy told me just goto home depot and find something like it for cheap if your just doing it for the rattling.
Jute doesn't stop resonance, it only stops a certain amount of noise and rattling. It belongs under your carpet in dry conditions only.
is the "ultimate b-quite" dynamat any good?
No. B-Quiet is asphalt-based, which will perform much worse than a Butyl product. What I would suggest is Secondskin, a modest amount of material. You do not need to cover every square inch. Just abide by my directions and/or research this website http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com for guidance. After your mat is down, install a closed-cell foam like Overkill or Ensolite (available at http://www.raamaudio.com) for your CCF layer. This should be sufficient for your doors.
those kickers look nice and are definatly in my price range.
Great deal. Just get the best ones you can afford at the time. Ebay is your friend as long as you trust the vendor. Feedback is a great way to verify.
as for amps
as far as my setup right now goes:
got the kenwood DNX 5120 running a kenwood 800 watt amp which runs two 1600 watt lanzar subs. i realize the amp is very underpowered i just havnt taken the time to do a system re-build until now.
Sounds like you want to replace your current amp and provide power for your speakers as well. Keep in mind that a Kenwood "800 watt" amp is probably 1/2 that in normal music conditions. There is a huge, huge difference between 800W RMS and 800W peak. Check for specs that say they are CEA-2006 certified and/or a birthsheet with real numbers if possible. Or look in the spec book and look for what RMS is.
amp is bolted under the floor (under the sub)
the amp wiring kit is a basic kit with a common size power wire (not sure what guage)
Does 8 or 4 sound more familiar? 8 gauge is relatively thin, and powers ~400W, 4 gauge can do up to around 1000W or so.
The sub box i am using i spent 4 hours at my friends audio shop trying out roughly 6 different box's with the lanzar's and this is the one with the best sound i could find. its a massive box i hate how big it is. its got two fist size ports in it.
This is no good. You have a ported box...with no idea to what it is tuned at. This is a big no-no. Every sub needs a different box size and port tune in a ported box. The tune depends on the sub's specs and the box's size, and the correlation between these. If you are going with a ported box, you must be twice as precise as you would be with a sealed box. Everything must be really accurate and well planned, or you'll have a wicked peak in your bass response which will destroy the semblance of a clean strong frequency response. Basically if you look at in a way...you end up with a one-note wonder. If you give me the Lanzar's exact part numbers, I will model and graph the correct response plots you should have w/ those subs.
just bought a distribution block today to add in a second amp.
Details. What kind, part numbers, pics, etc. I can help determine what exactly it can do for you.
and as for idea's on second amp i can get my hands on a "pyle" 1000 watt amp but ithink its a crappy no namer.
Good call on not buying a paperweight.
as for what i plan to do this month:
i plan on removing the crappy cargo area foam board and putting a sheet of plywood down in the cavity to which i will mount a distrubution block along with the sub amp and door speaker amp.
after that im going to cut a peice of plywood the shape and size of factory floor and place it down on top. thehn cut a square out the size of cavity and replace it with plexy glass, so you can see and adjust the amps by unscrewing the plexy sheet, and a fan for ventilation. going to cover that top piece of plywood with suade and finally i want to make a dress-up box to go around the subs so i have a nice cargo area again.
would like a nice clean install for once.
Any plan can work with the right process and follow-through. If you take pics of the area I could probably draft up a 3D cad image of the idea so you can look at it before you build it...and find errors before you make them.
my only concern for the cargo area project is im asuming i should run a heavier guage power wire to the back and into the distribution block, for the original amp and the new door speaker amp. im assuming i wouldnt be able to run both amps off that one power wire. also added a volt guage and it jumps around alot when the subs are on loud so maybe i should add a CAP again to save my alternator?
Caps are a joke and unnecessary in almost every build imaginable. Save your money and trust me. also i have a switched remote wire so i can turn my subs off in my area, im assuming i can splice in the remote wire to connect the second amp so it doesnt turn off the speaker amp?
The better way to do this would be to simply have your subs on a separate gain knob, accessible in the cabin instantly. Most good sub amps come with a bass knob or at least the ability to have one.
also my head unit can suport two amps correct? i just need to run a second set of rca cables?
Your head unit supports two sets of preouts, so yes you'll be fine w/ two input channels...two amps provide that.
and im still trying to figure out a good design for the sub box, all i got so far is maybe build a wooden box to go around it with slots on the front where the speakers are to let the sound out (like your hidden install) (would still like it all to fit under the cargocover)
Let's cross that bridge when the specs are out and I get a chance to model what the subs "want" for space and design considerations.
BTW: i should probably ask this now, im good with car electrical but never hooked up an amp for the speakers. i just run the rca's to the back and conect it up like the sub amp, only difference being i have to run the speaker wire from amp to behind headunit and cut it into the aftermarket harness speaker wires?
The right way to do this car is to install new speaker wire in the doors. This isn't easy but you can do it. You need to run 16 gauge 4 conductor wire in there, or at least a pair of 16gauge wires...one for the tweeters and one for the woofers. The factory wire stays unused.
thanks so much for the help
