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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Has anyone ever replaced the rear bushing on the front lower control arm?

I would like to know what pressing tool was used and if the control arm needs to be taken off from the steering knuckle for this type of service.
I've just replaced the ball joints and I don't want to damage the ball joint boots. I've never been able to separate a control arm from a steering knuckle without damaging the grease boots. :doh:



I know that I could just get another control arm, ball joint, and bushing from rockauto.com for around a hundred bucks.

I would like to keep as much of the original Ford parts as possible and not make a big project out of this. After I replaced the ball joints I noticed a tear in this bushing. :(

Search on http://www.rockauto.com for MOOG Part # K80400/#80399{Control Arm w/Ball Joint} Frt Susp; Lower; LH; Incl. bushings.

Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I know that they need to be pressed back in. My question was do I have to take off the ENTIRE control arm off to do it? Or do I just have to take off the two bolts that attach the control arm to the lower sub frame? I want to avoid damaging the ball joint grease boot by separating the steering knuckle from the control arm. Thank you! B.T.W. Nice Bull Bar on ur Escape. :thumb:
 

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I just replaced my front lower control arms.
No way they were coming off without damaging the boots. Buggers to get off.
 

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I'd say your best bet would be to get a whole new set of control arms as you'll have to remove them to try and press out the old bushings anyway. A set of MOOG problem solvers and you'll be good to go with a lifetime warranty.
 

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I am usually pretty good with tools and following techniques, but for the life of me, cleanly separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle has proven impossible for me. I have seen videos of guys saying, "just tap it right here" pointing to the side of the knuckle as it falls free. With me, it takes soaking the joint with penetrating oil, driving a chisel into the slot, then beating two pickle forks in from opposing sides, destroying the boot. Any thing that looks more finesse is hopeless for me.
 

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RegXLS said:
I am usually pretty good with tools and following techniques, but for the life of me, cleanly separating the ball joint from the steering knuckle has proven impossible for me. I have seen videos of guys saying, "just tap it right here" pointing to the side of the knuckle as it falls free. With me, it takes soaking the joint with penetrating oil, driving a chisel into the slot, then beating two pickle forks in from opposing sides, destroying the boot. Any thing that looks more finesse is hopeless for me.
Same here but my ball joints and bushings were fried anyways. I didn't have any forks available so it was a sledge, chisel, and a great stress relieving therapy session of going Office Space on my old control arms.
 

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thom said:
RegXLS, that is exactly how I had to do it. Two forks and a chisel. Funny...exactly the same.
That is funny and makes me feel better about my crude techniques. I avoid that ball joint at all costs if possible. In fact, if replacing a tone ring or axle-shaft, I have found it much easier to remove the control arm pivot bolt and leave the ball joint alone when removing the axle.
 

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RegXLS said:
thom said:
RegXLS, that is exactly how I had to do it. Two forks and a chisel. Funny...exactly the same.
That is funny and makes me feel better about my crude techniques. I avoid that ball joint at all costs if possible. In fact, if replacing a tone ring or axle-shaft, I have found it much easier to remove the control arm pivot bolt and leave the ball joint alone when removing the axle.
Might I offer an alternative method for replacing the axle shaft and/or tone ring? I just replaced my second tone ring on my truck (RF this time) and was able to do it in one hour flat in my driveway. I only had to remove the wheel, axle nut, the wheel speed sensor, the bolt holding the brake line to the strut, and the two bolts holding the spindle to the strut. I was able to slide the axle out of the hub and supported the end of the axle with a bungee cord while I used a Dremel to clean off the rust and corrosion before I installed the new tone ring.
 
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