[BustaR]

2005 Escape Hybrid

I replaced the auxiliary water pump because it failed (no heat in EV mode). I filled the coolant reservoir to the full level, but it took nowhere near as much as drained out, which did not surprise me since I expected a bubble. I left the cap off, started the engine, turned on heater full blast and waited for the system to "burp." No burp, even after fans kick on (I shut off at that point) and no heat, either. I had to use the defrost to keep it running or the car would go into EV mode after about a minute. I took the new aux. pump off to check that it was not the culprit--water flows through it fine and I still have the same problem when I put the old pump back on there.

Is it possible that there is so much air in there that the main water pump cannot draw any coolant through the system? If so, what is the best solution for me to try?

Thanks

 

[LX302]

I'm not sure on how to properly do it on a vehicle with an Aux. pump, but the old school way of burping the coolant system was to jack the front of the car up, allowing the air to leave the top of the radiator.
Might want to give this a try.

 

[slavrenz]

There should be one or more air bleed valves on the engine that you are supposed to open when you refill the coolant - did you do this?

 

[BustaR]

No, because I cannot find one. Nor can I find reference to its location (if equipped) anywhere in my manual or on the web. I'd love to find a bleed valve! Do you know where it is?

 

[slavrenz]

No, because I cannot find one. Nor can I find reference to its location (if equipped) anywhere in my manual or on the web. I'd love to find a bleed valve! Do you know where it is?

Do you have an actual repair manual, or are you just referring to the owner's manual? A quick check of your owner's manual didn't turn up any info on bleeding air out of the system. It did say that the capacity of your regular cooling system is 8.5 quarts, and the electronics cooling system is 3.7 quarts. On my 2010 2.5L engine, there is a small hose with a bleed screw that pokes up next to the engine on the driver's side - see my Engine Block Heater Install How-To for its exact location. viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7599

The point I'm trying to make is, are you sure it's a case of air in the system, and not something else causing the EV mode and heat problems? How much coolant were you able to get back into the system?

 

[BustaR]

I'm using alldata.

No, I am not sure there is not something else going on, but I have not messed with anything except that little pump under/behind the radiator. I estimate I lost about four quarts of fluid during the swap and was able to add back about two quarts. Basically, filling the coolant reservoir to the full line and a little more that drained into the system via gravity.

 

[skibender]

When you were waiting for the "Burp", did the engine get up to temp so the thermostat opened? I'm wondering if it wasn't allowed enough time to warm up.

 

[BustaR]

When you were waiting for the "Burp", did the engine get up to temp so the thermostat opened? I'm wondering if it wasn't allowed enough time to warm up.

This was part of my problem because it could never warm up properly with no coolant was being drawn through the system.

Update: somewhat counter-intuitively, driving the car is what fixed it. Whether by sloshing the coolant/bubbles around or by increased engine load (high idle in garage had no effect), it slowly started to draw coolant through and I could fill with more coolant (after cooling down, of course). I started slowly with a lap of the cul-de-sac, then up and down the street, next thing I knew I was running errands.

 

[mdhimes]

I had the exact same problem. I took the advice of one of the posters in this thread and opened the vent. When that didn't do the trick I did what the original poster did and took a drive around the block (once) only I left the vent open as well. All better! I guess the coolant just needed to slosh around a bit or something.

2010 escape 2.5 2WD.