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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone, I searched the threads and couldnt find this issue so if I missed it im sorry.

I have a 03 ford escape 3L. It got hot the other day and I discovered it had a bad radiator hose, I replaced hose, refilled with coolant. Started it up, and waited to see what happened, after about 15 min it was hot again. I looked around, let it cool a bit, started it again and noticed the cooling fans not working. All fuses and relays look ok. I disconnected both plugs on fans and reconnected, still nothing, then I cranked up and turned on AC, now the fans are working, turn AC off and fans turn off about a min later.

So if fans are working when AC is on I would think this rules out fuses, relay, connection. Im thinking it might be the temp sensor or cooling fan resistor? Does anyone have experience with this?
 

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The cooling fans are controlled by the PCM which operates them only when the programming tells them to.

One condition, for example, is when the A/C is commanded to ON and the vehicle is stationary or moving at slower speeds.

Otherwise, the PCM relies on the ECT sensor to determine if engine temps (and other enabling criteria) dictate that the PCM turn on the fans at whichever fan speed was determined to be needed by the design programmers.

Other than guessing, you really need to use a scan tool or comparable to monitor the PCM's activity so you can understand what is or isn't happening. Have you scanned for fault codes or run the PCM Quick Test yet? Those are the standard starting points for any diagnosis.
 

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Without knowing what the PCM is doing or what the operating temperature actually is, it's impossible to determine if the system is operating "as expected" or if there is a fault.

Might be completely normal for the observing conditions... or not. The OP will need to dig deeper.
 

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2020 Ttanium Hybrid/2009 Limited Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
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Hey everyone, I searched the threads and couldnt find this issue so if I missed it im sorry.

I have a 03 ford escape 3L. It got hot the other day and I discovered it had a bad radiator hose, I replaced hose, refilled with coolant. Started it up, and waited to see what happened, after about 15 min it was hot again. I looked around, let it cool a bit, started it again and noticed the cooling fans not working. All fuses and relays look ok. I disconnected both plugs on fans and reconnected, still nothing, then I cranked up and turned on AC, now the fans are working, turn AC off and fans turn off about a min later.

So if fans are working when AC is on I would think this rules out fuses, relay, connection. Im thinking it might be the temp sensor or cooling fan resistor? Does anyone have experience with this?
I'm going to suggest you do not have a problem. These fans are auxiliary, and are only used when necessary. ( :

you can do like others have suggested in using a scanning tool to test your system… But it sounds functional to me. ( :

To be specific, the only cap You should loosen slowly is on the overflow reservoir. When the fluid surges into the reservoir, try to notice if air bubbles come out. If they do, repeat cycle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i dont have a scan tool guys so i am not able to scan it. i was hooping someone might come along that has had the same issue and shares what they did to resolve it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I'm going to suggest you do not have a problem. These fans are auxiliary, and are only used when necessary. ( :

you can do like others have suggested in using a scanning tool to test your system… But it sounds functional to me. ( :

To be specific, the only cap You should loosen slowly is on the overflow reservoir. When the fluid surges into the reservoir, try to notice if air bubbles come out. If they do, repeat cycle.
motor is getting hot and blowing steam and water out the back of the reservoir, im pretty sure that is not normal.
 

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2020 Ttanium Hybrid/2009 Limited Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
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motor is getting hot and blowing steam and water out the back of the reservoir, im pretty sure that is not normal.
Sounds like you got blockage, a thermostat, or a water pump failure… Hard to guess my friend.
You are correct, with your engine/radiator that hot your fan(s) should be turning on. It could be a temperature sending unit has failed?
The reservoir is meant to vent, to avoid blowing out the radiator, or a hose... At least it is doing its job.

I hope you have parked it. You will have to inspect your head, and valve cover gaskets for leakage after you figure out why your overheating.

if it was fine before you changed the radiator hose, I would pull that back off for inspection of the inlet/outlets for blockage.
 

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i will give it a try, why am i doing it?
Checking the heater operation will tell me if you have an air pocket or not. If the heater works at first, say a min or so, and then gets cool, you have an air pocket. Air pockets prevent the water pump from moving water (coolant). Air pockets will also disrupt the normal operation of the thermostat.

If everything was fine with the vehicle until you changed the hose, you have air in the cooling system.
 

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If everything was fine with the vehicle until you changed the hose, you have air in the cooling system.
I had a 3.8 windstar that I had my buddy change the radiator on for me because it was leaking. He called after he changed the radiator and said it was getting hot and thought the head gasket was bad (3.8 Essex known head gasket killer). The radiator was leaking but there was no overheating because I kept the coolant level up before I brought it in.

I picked up the truck with a couple of bottles of water and coolant and drove it around his shop with the cap off the reservoir and kept adding coolant as it puked it up. This had the rear climate control as well so it probably had an air pocket in the rear heater core. Within 15 minutes I had it purged and it settled down. Ran perfectly another 4 years before the headgasket blew...

John
 
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