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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Sorry for my first post being a troubleshooting thread but I need some help.

I just bought a '02 Tribute ES V6 4x4 from a friend. I have driven with him in it 2 times before and there were no problems and no weird noises. I was finally able to establish an agreement with him on payments and got the keys to it last Monday. I bought this car as a replacement for my VW Gti since I have a daughter on the way and needed something with 4 doors. I wanted that over-protective parent wrapped in a metal cage look...

I had no problems with it on Monday or Tuesday. On Wednesday, I tried to pass someone on the highway and the rpms shot up, then dropped back down, back up and then they leveled off to where I was originally. So I got back into the right lane and just coasted along. Well, then it started slowing down gradually, I still had power to everything so I pressed on the gas to try to speed up and nothing. I could still hear the engine running. Then I lost power to everything. No power steering and no assisted braking, I'm a small guy so I literally had to pull on the steering wheel to apply enough force on the brake pedal to keep from hitting the semi-truck in front of me on the exit ramp. I was still doing about 50 mph around an exit ramp with a posted 25mph. I finally manage to get it to stop about 500 feet from the intersection on the side of the road/ramp.

I tried to start it and it wouldn't do anything, just click, so I figured it was a dead battery. We did have to have it jumped 2 months ago when I originally looked at it and again that Monday when I picked it up. When I got back from work I replaced the battery with a new one after a friend tried to jump start me and it didn't work. My vag-com was throwing a p0320 error. I got lucky getting a tow home from a very helpful tower at the gas station. He tried to start it also by flicking the ignition a couple of times. It sounded like it was trying to start but wouldn't, and occasionally you could hear a "squeal" coming from the lift side of the engine bay where the timing chain is.

So I started going thru all the help sites (I have about 15 bookmarked just from working on my problematic VW) to try to find help. I just got a replacement CKP sensor from Mazda and installed it. Still won't start. I tried jumping from my fiances car and it tries to start, it turns over for almost 1 second and goes back to clicking. It's a slow turn-over. I cleaned the IAC just to eliminate possibilites. I also replaced all 6 spark plugs and cleaned off the coils and boots. I pulled #6 to see if it was getting fuel, which it smelled like it was and noticed that they haven't been changed in a while, if ever. The vehicle has 141k miles.

I don't know what else to do, and help would be appreciated! Thank you in advance!

Edit: Where I'm at right now.
 

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First, welcome to E-C!

Sure enough, P0320 refers to an ignition problem, and I think that it's a crankshaft position sensor, but please read on.

From the service DVD (and please let me know if this contains links to other pages, since I didn't have the time to read through it):

2004 PCED On Board Diagnostics SECTION 5: Pinpoint Tests
Procedure revision date: 08/18/2003


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A: No Start A: Introduction

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A1 CHECK PASSIVE ANTI-THEFT SYSTEM (SECURE LOCK)
Verify anti-theft system status.
Is the system activated?
Yes: REFER to Workshop Manual, Section 419, Electrical Anti-theft.
No: GO to A2.

A2 ATTEMPT TO CRANK ENGINE
Note: Verify inertia fuel shutoff (IFS) switch is set (button pushed in). REFER to Owner Guide for location.
Does the engine crank?
Yes: KEY OFF. GO to A3.
No: KEY OFF. REFER to Workshop Manual, Section 303, Starting Systems.

A3 IDENTIFY TYPE OF NO START
Note: The purpose of this test step is to identify intermittent No Starts in order to determine the proper repair procedure.
Does the vehicle start?
Yes: KEY OFF. Vehicle is an intermittent No Start. GO to Z2.
No: KEY OFF. GO to A4.

A4 DETERMINE THROTTLE TYPE
Is vehicle equipped with Electronic Throttle Control?
Yes: GO to A6.
No: GO to A5.

A5 CHECK VREF VOLTAGE TO TP SENSOR
* TP Sensor connector disconnected.
* Key ON Engine OFF.
* Measure the Voltage between: ( + )TP Sensor Connector, Harness Side - VREF and ( - )TP Sensor Connector, Harness Side - SIGRTN
Is the Voltage between 4 V - 5.5 V?
Yes: KEY OFF. RECONNECT TP sensor. GO to A7.
No: KEY OFF. GO to C1.

A6 CHECK VREF VOLTAGE TO ETC SENSOR
* ETBTPS Sensor connector disconnected.
* Key ON Engine OFF.
* Measure the Voltage between: ( + )ETBTPS Sensor Connector, Harness Side - ETCREF Pin 2 and ( - )ETBTPS Sensor Connector, Harness Side - ETCRTN Pin 3
Is the Voltage between 4 V - 5.5 V?
Yes: KEY OFF. Reconnect ETC. GO to A7.
No: KEY OFF. GO to C1.

A7 CHECK FLASH EPROM POWER SUPPLY (FEPS) CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO POWER IN HARNESS
* Key ON Engine OFF.
* Measure the Voltage between: ( + )DLC Connector, Harness Side - FEPS and ( - )Vehicle battery - Negative post
Is the Voltage above 9 V?
Yes: KEY OFF. REPAIR short circuit to PWR. For Coil On Plug ignition testing: GO to A16.
No: KEY OFF. GO to A8.

A8 CHECK PCM DRIVER TO COILS
*Connect test lamp between B+ and each coil driver circuit at the harness connector.
*Crank the engine.
Note: Test lamp bulb filament wattages vary widely. Intensity and duration of blinking will depend upon test lamp being used.
Does the test lamp blink consistently (one blink per engine revolution)?
Yes: KEY OFF. GO to A9.
No: KEY OFF. GO to JD1.

A9 CHECK RPM IN THE PCM
Note: The scan tool must be connected to a reliable power source that is powered with the key in the START position (such as directly to the vehicle battery). Also verify that the vehicle battery is fully charged.
* Access the PCM-RPM PID using a scan tool.
* Crank engine while viewing RPM PID.
Is the RPM between 150 RPM - 350 RPM?
Yes: KEY OFF. For Coil On Plug ignition testing: GO to JB1. For Coil Pack ignition testing: GO to JC1. For Dedicated NGV vehicles that do not require ignition testing: GO to A12. For All Other vehicles that do not require ignition testing: GO to A10.
No: KEY OFF. GO to JD2.

A10 CHECK FUEL PRESSURE
WARNING: THE FUEL SYSTEM WILL REMAIN PRESSURIZED WHEN THE ENGINE IS NOT RUNNING. TO PREVENT INJURY OR FIRE, USE CAUTION WHEN WORKING ON THE FUEL SYSTEM.
FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION, REFER TO THE WARNING TEXT FOUND AT THE BEGINNING OF PINPOINT TEST HC.

* Relieve fuel pressure.
* Connect fuel pressure gauge to the Schrader valve using the appropriate fuel pressure test hose and adaptor.
* Scan Tool Connected.
* Key ON Engine OFF.
* Enter Output Test Mode (refer to section 2).
* Activate the fuel pump to obtain maximum fuel pressure.
Is the fuel pressure within specification (use fuel pressure chart in Pinpoint Test HC)?
Yes: KEY OFF. GO to A11.
No: KEY OFF. GO to HC1.

A11 CHECK FUEL PRESSURE LEAKDOWN
* Scan Tool Connected.
* Key ON Engine OFF.
* Enter Output Test Mode (refer to section 2).
* Activate the fuel pump to obtain maximum fuel pressure.
* Exit Output Test Mode.
* Verify Fuel pressure remains within 34 kPa (5 PSI) of the maximum pressure for 1 minute after turning pump off.
Does fuel pressure remain within 34 kPa (5 PSI)?
Yes: KEY OFF. GO to A12.
No: KEY OFF. GO to HC1.

A12 CHECK FUEL INJECTORS FOR VPWR
* CHECK at least 2 fuel injectors, one on each bank on V type engines. A no start condition can exist only if greater than half of the fuel injectors are without VPWR.
* Disconnect two fuel injectors.
* Key ON Engine OFF.
* Measure VPWR voltage at the each fuel injector harness connector.
Is the voltage greater than 10.5 volts?
Yes: KEY OFF. For Dedicated NGV, GO to A14. For Gasoline, GO to A13.
No: KEY OFF. REPAIR VPWR circuit.

A13 CHECK FUEL INJECTORS ABILITY TO DELIVER FUEL
* Cycle key several times to charge fuel system.
* Locate and activate the fuel inertia switch to disable fuel pump.
* Monitor fuel pressure gauge while cranking the engine for at least 5 seconds.
Is there a pressure drop greater than 34 kPa (5 PSI) while cranking the engine?
Yes: KEY OFF. The Electronic Engine Control system is not the cause of the no start. Concern is elsewhere. RETURN to Section 3 , Symptom Charts for further direction.
No: KEY OFFREPLACE PCM (refer to Section 2, Flash Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM))..

A14 CHECK FUEL PRESSURE
WARNING: BEFORE SERVICING OR REPLACING ANY COMPONENTS IN THE FUEL SYSTEM, REDUCE THE POSSIBILITY OF INJURY OR FIRE BY FOLLOWING DIRECTIONS IN PINPOINT TEST HB WARNING, CAUTION, AND HANDLING.
* Key ON Engine OFF.
* Access the PCM-FRP PID using a scan tool.
* Record fuel pressure.
Is the fuel pressure within specification (use fuel pressure chart in Pinpoint Test HC)?
Yes: GO to A15.
No: GO to HB1.

A15 CHECK INJECTOR SIGNAL FROM NATURAL GAS MODULE
Note: This test requires a standard 12V test lamp. A properly operating system will show a dim glow.
* Connect a non-powered test lamp between the injector signal circuit and VPWR circuit pin at the injector harness.
* Crank the engine.
Does the test lamp have a dim glow while cranking?
Yes: GO to HB1.
No: GO to HA16.

A16 CHECK PCM DRIVER TO COILS
* Connect test lamp between B+ and each coil driver circuit at the harness connector.
* Crank the engine.
Does the test lamp blink consistently (one blink per engine revolution)?
Yes: GO to A9.
No: GO to JD1.
 

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I'm thinking timing belt. But IDK, I'm not a mechanic. Just going on the way our Escorts coughed up their timing belts and jumped out of time. Ran fine, lost power, quit running...
:worry:
Replacement isn't too tough. ;) Just a small PITA. :(
 

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The 3.0 V6 uses a timing chain, and while it's possible, I've never heard of one of those failing, regardless of the mileage. It's a pretty hefty chain.

The fact that it's throwing a P0320 code means that there's an electrical failure, and, most often, it's the crankshaft position sensor.

:peace:
 

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Sorry, I didn't see where he posted it's the V-6... :shrug:

I do see now where he says he replaced the six spark plugs... :doh:

I was thinking four banger with the double ohc and the giant rubber belt. :shock: Mostly because he said it would try to start, then click. Signs of a interference cam with a valve open and a piston up against it. Like I said, I'm no mechanic. :angel:
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thank you very much for the quick replies! Today is my only day off until next Thursday so it's been a great help!

Ok, I figured out how to do some of that stuff, I don't think I have the necessary tools for a few of them.

IFS is fine, it's pushed in. For A5, checking pins 1 and 3 was at 4.95, pins 2 and 3 was 4.79. Pins 1 and 2 didn't have a reading. A6 checked out fine.

A7: Pin 9 is 4.5 Pin 13 is 5.3 Pin 16 is 9.6
Something strange I noticed. If I run the vag-com off the dlc, it will reset itself when I crank the suv. If I run it off the internal battery, it doesn't. It didn't do that before the problem, or on the VW, or my fiances Pontiac.

There is also a loud buzzing coming from the throttle body, it will stop for a second when I remove the connector but it comes back even with the connector off.

And i'm not 100% sure on the anti-theft. Sometimes the light will still flash after I've tried to crank it, othertimes it stays off?

Edit: Yeah, I wish it was something easy like the chain, that's currently what's wrong with the VW, the water pump is out and the belt slipped giving me an occassional miss... I can't wait to do that job, still waiting on the parts to get in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Now there's more problems. I would edit my last post but there are new issues.

If I press the brakes with the door open and no keys in, the door open light dims. After I put the keys in and turn the ignition on, I hear this clicking sound that is in time to the door open light flashing... And the radio won't work. If I turn the key to the 1st click, the radio works fine.

If I turn the ignition on but not actually cranking the car, all the lights flash, all the needles go to the extremes, and sometimes the gear selector/mileage will dissappear or it will say every gear is selected?

What is up with that? Did I touch a wrong wire and fry something?
 

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If it was me messing around under the hood, this is what I would do. Just as a precaution. Disconnect the battery for about 10-15 minutes, this should clear all codes and reset your PCM. Go over everything, electrical or otherwise that you have touched or probed with a multimeter or tool of any type. Make sure you have a good ground. Maybe just a bad ground cable. It's happened before, not to me but others. Maybe it's your turn. If you don't have a good ground, your not going to get good results.

Once you are sure everything is the way it was or supposed to be, reconnect the battery. Make sure all switches are turned or set to the off position. Try your ignition switch again. Verify that the dash warning lights illuminate at the appropriate positions of your switch, and not before or after.

Redo the troubleshooting map as JP posted. See if there are any inconsistencies with what you have observed before or what you are supposed to see according to the owners manual and or the troubleshooting map. Something is definitely hosed and out of position.

Like I said before, I'm not a mechanic or a automotive technican. It's just what I would do to eliminate the OOPS factor on my part, or what I have seen technicans do to cars. Okay?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I actually just went thru most of the grounds I could find at my brothers request. I tightened the ones on top I could see, the bottom side will get checked tomorrow when I get off work. I tried to jump it again with the other car, it's still trying to turn over, but just isn't catching. It'll click a couple times and then try to turn over again, and it just repeats. It does sound like it's trying to turn over longer.

I am now disconnecting the battery when I'm not messing with it to keep it from draining. There's a current pull coming from somewhere that I have yet to locate that is killing the battery when it sits. The meter was reading 7.xxx on the battery with the key out...

One thing I forgot to mention was that the new CPK sensor looked a bit different than what was in there. The old one was all black and the end was a hard edge. The new one is gray and has a smooth rounded end. It did fit...

Like I said before, I'm not a mechanic or a automotive technican. It's just what I would do to eliminate the OOPS factor on my part, or what I have seen technicans do to cars. Okay?
I completely understand! Usually when this happened with the VW, it was the ignition coil. 3 of those in about 4 years at $100 a pop...
 

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Some early Escapes and Tributes had an electrical problem with the fusebox in the kick panel. Remove the battery cable, then the driver-side kick panel and fusebox. If there's water and/or rust behind it, you may have an electrical problem.

There was also a major recall for early Escapes and Tributes dealing with the wiring harness on the driver-side fender, near the master cylinder. From what I remember about it, brake fluid leaks onto the ABS unit caused the harness to melt and short-circuit most of the wiring in it. Take a look at that area and see if anything looks burned or distressed.

Both of those problems were fixed by recalls. If I have the time today, I'll try to look up the recall numbers.
 

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Does your battery retain voltage when disconnected and on a charger?

NO? Do you have a battery from another car that you can substitue into the Tribute?

Could just be the battery has a dead short. 7VDC isn't much...
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
You're right. Turns out the battery was gone from the start. Replaced with another new one from Autozone. Also picked up new belts and a camshaft position sensor. Haven't put the belts on yet but I did install the new CMP. The style of the new sensor made me have to stretch the wiring to get the harness on. I double checked all the other sensors on that bundle of wires to make sure they didn't pull loose when it clicked on. I also double checked all 6 coils and harnesses to make sure they were properly fitted and snapped on.

I also checked the wiring in kickpanel and under the master brake cylinder for corrosion or anything that didn't look normal.

Ok, so now it turns over. But that's all it does. I did manage to get it fired up for almost 5 seconds but only that once and only by pressing on the gas when it was trying to start. It would not run on it's own. And it was clunking and squealing. I tried it a few more times and all it would do is turn over. It wouldn't catch aside from that one time even with pressing the gas.

The clunking and squealing kinda has me scared...

Edit: I forgot to mention that it threw the same p0320 code for that few seconds it ran. It also had freeze data with it this time but I didn't write it down before disconnecting the battery again. I do remember that it threw the code when the rpms were 377 at of course, 0 miles an hour. It also said the load was 83%...
 

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Just for grins, remove all your belts and crank it.

I'm looking for where the noise is coming from...engine or something belt driven.

Does it make the same noises? Do any of the squeling sounds seem to eminate from the intake or exhaust? You may have to move around with a hose to your ear and the other end towards specific things on the engine, like the intake, exhaust, transaxle for the converter, while someone else operates the starter.

If the noises stop without the belts on, it could be belt driven.

It may need someone closer than me or another online person to help.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That's almost what my brother recommended but you're way sounds better. He said to try to turn the engine over by hand (wrench on the crankshaft bolt of course) and watch where the belt looks funny. I did pick up new belts today when I got the battery since I didn't know if those were the original belts or not.

Unfortunately I ran out of daylight by the time my brother called me back so I'll have to check it tomorrow night. I did move the VW over in the garage so I could fit the Tribute in there, going to try to push it in there... That way I'll have light plus a fan to keep cool!

I was kinda guessing that the alternator might have been out since everytime I looked at it the battery was dead...

Do I remove both belts and actually crank it up with the key? Or would taking off the drivebelt and manually turning those parts by hand suffice? The earliest I'll be able to check this would be at the latest Sunday night :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Ok, I pulled the drivebelt and all the pullys would turn by hand with no resistance. Nothing sounded weird. So I started it up. It took a few seconds to catch but it eventually did. I could still hear the squeak that was in sync with the engine. It ran for a few seconds on it's own and very promptly shut itself off.

I tried to crank it again with my father on the phone so he could hear that sound but it wouldn't catch again. It would turn over though...
 

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be sure to have your alternator checked or check it your self. when i first got my escape i had the no start and it to was my battery, so i thought. after putting in the new one my escape died on me in the fast lane one day. it turns out my beltswere extremely loose due to bad tensioners, and that caused the alternator to go bad. once i replaced the belts, tensioners and that difficult to replace alternator i have had no more electrical problems. i did pick up a meter that plugs in to my cigarette lighter from wal mart so i can check that things are good from time to time.also since replacing the alternator my car died one more time, because the plastic alternator connector came loose. i solved this with two little dots of epoxy. my escape is powered by the v6.

hope this helps to

Dale :rockon:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Update time!

I pulled the new plugs out to get rid of the pressure in the cylinders and tried to turn the crank using a wrench. Neither my father-in-law or I could turn it by hand. I didn't try to start it using the ignition again.

I sprayed some WD40 down the holes overnight and followed that with tranny fluid in the morning and checked the levels when I got home from work. 5 and 6 went down pretty easy but 4 stayed full, I let it sit overnight again hoping it would have eventually made it past the ring but it didn't. And I still couldn't turn it by hand. So I cranked it. It took a second but eventually it would turn over. It spins freely now, and doesn't sound like its under stress. And I can also turn the crank by hand now. I'm on the way to pick up a torque wrench, 10 gallons of new oil for a full flush and a crap load of towels as I now have fluid sprayed over the front of the engine bay and down the drive way about 5 feet... The towel I was using to cover the plug holes didn't on top long. I also pushed in some towels to pick up the leftover fluid in the plug holes and let the last of it seep past the rings.

My question is should I still be hearing a metal on metal slide/grind when I turn the crank by hand? It's been about 15 years since I've had to turn one by hand and I can't remember if that's normal. And I still haven't resolved the issue as to why it locked/binded in the first place... Bad oil pump or possibly the oil getting gunked from sitting months without really running?
 

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Sorry, I have been little help. :shrug:

I do know that the oil shouldn't gunk up in six months. Shouldn't be any problem what so ever.

I hate to say this, but you and your machine have me stumped. :shock:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Lol, you're not the only one. I can literally hear both my brother and father scratching their heads! And why don't they make a smaller torque wrench? I would use this thing as a breaker bar if it didn't say not to all over the packaging...

I just finished cleaning up for the night, I put the new spark plugs in the back 3 and cleaned up the intake manifold and its gaskets 'cause of all the tranny fluid. All I have left tomorrow is to put plugs in the front and put the belt back on and see how she does! I'm going to clean up the back 3 of the old plugs so I don't foul up the new ones while it's running (if it even does). Hopefully I won't have any problems, that fluid needs to burn off the pistons and it needs to relearn it's idle settings before I flush the engine with new fluid and switch out the old plugs. After taking some real time to inspect the engine bay, we've come to the conclusion that at least half, if not all of the engine was under water. Certain parts have major corrosion including pipes on the back side of the engine.

Does anyone know what the ratio is for putting in Marvelous Mystery Oil? I haven't checked their website site yet so I figured I'd ask first...
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Now with video! It's running, it didn't struggle, it didn't sound like it was stressed like it was before...

Any ideas?


And sorry about slamming the door, was kinda pissed...
 
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