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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was driving sunday, and the Check engine light came on. Today, I took it over to Advance Auto Parts to get the OBD II code pulled for free, and on the way my radio (aftermarket alpine) went out. I parked, and my electrical door locks don't work either via button or remote. The biggest issue: The OBD II port has no power to it, and thus the code cannot be pulled.

Any suggestions? I'm hoping it's a fuse issue, but we pulled and checked most of them... they looked fine.

Overview:
Check engine light Sunday

Radio, door locks, OBD port dont work.

Also, is it normal for all of the gauges to fly up to their max, sit there for a few seconds, then come back down when I start the car? I don't remember that happening before.

I was having some issues starting before (it was struggling occasionally), but those have been sporadic at best, and the battery seems to be fine.

Help? I feel like I'm back with my saab (Something's Almost Always Broken) 9-5 again... :wall:
 

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I am not sure about everything else, but the instrument cluster does that after the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, or if your battery dies and you put it on a charger
 

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GrandmasCar said:
I was having some issues starting before (it was struggling occasionally), but those have been sporadic at best, and the battery seems to be fine.
Did you actually have the battery checked? I was having issues getting my Escape to start last year. The starter turned over fine but the motor would not catch. I'd have to try 3-7 times before it would start. I didn't think it was the battery because the starter seemed to turn strong. I was wrong. I had the battery tested and it was weak. After it was replaced, I didn't have anymore issues. I didn't have any of the wacky gauge or radio issues you are experiencing though...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It's not that it doesn't start, it's just that maybe 1/10 times it'll have to crank for 2 seconds or so, vs. immediately starting. I'm going to look into the BTN 1 and BTN 2 fuses, and see if those will power things back up so that I can get the CEL codes.
 

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Your escape ' CPU ', might need to be checked.
It is only a suggestion.

My 06 escape, has a new black box ( CPU ).
Had it replaced under warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
SOLVED!!!

Fuse 27 on the drivers floor fuse box. Took forever to realize passenger fuse box = passenger cabin not passenger side. CEL was an O2 sensor on the 1st cylinder bank. Reset light, we'll see if it comes back on.
 

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Glad you found the bad fuse. Hopefully this solves your issues for good! :peace:
 

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Radio dyeing, gauges sweeping and no power are all symptoms of a weak battery usually brought on by a bad alternator. The voltage regulator is prone to failure and works intermittently as it fails until one day it's too late. usually takes the battery with it because of over charge / undercharge condition.

You should get both the bat and the alt checked out so you don't get stranded. A fuse will not give you some of the problems you had.
 

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Yep, I'd get those electrical items checked. Sometimes a fuse blows for a reason.
Something else to look into is the battery cables. From what others have reported on some Escapes it corrodes somewhere under the airbox or thereabouts.
 

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I AM HAVING THIS VERY SAME ISSUE!!!

I ACTUALLY HAVE AN APPT TO GET THIS CHECKED TOMORROW, I'LL HAVE THE SHOP CHECK FUSE 27 FIRST.

HOPEFULLY ITS NOT AN ALTERNATOR PROBLEM.

DOES ANYONE KNOW THE COST OF THE FUSE?
 

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Car fuses are cheap. You can get sets of them for under $15...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Go to an Advance Auto Parts or any other store. Fuse box was a pain to get to, but don't pay for labor. Ford said they'd need to do 1.5 hours of diagnostic to figure out the electrical issue minimum... Advance auto parts guy and I pulled all the fuses and got er done for... $4.
 
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