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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a question: what is the idle rpm on a V6 2005 Escape XLT? Mine seems to be a little high for some reason. Also, if I quickly step on the throttle and let go, it doesn't return to idle very quickly. Is this normal? Does anyone else experience this? Is there a fix for this problem?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
etrailer said:
A hanging RPM is normal. You can stab the gas and the RPMs will shoot up and slowly come back down.
OK, I get that. Thanks for the reply. Now for the first part of my question.....what's the normal idle rpm on this 3.0 V6 engine? I'm thinking it should be around 750 rpm. Mine is closer to 900 rpm. Any way to turn down the rpm on these Escapes?
 

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fotojack said:
etrailer said:
A hanging RPM is normal. You can stab the gas and the RPMs will shoot up and slowly come back down.
OK, I get that. Thanks for the reply. Now for the first part of my question.....what's the normal idle rpm on this 3.0 V6 engine? I'm thinking it should be around 750 rpm. Mine is closer to 900 rpm. Any way to turn down the rpm on these Escapes?
Idle RPM is set in the programming of the ECU. Are you seeing 900 when you first start the Escape in the morning? I imagine things are pretty chilly up there right now. See if it the idle doesn't drop as the engine warms up. Or when you get to work in the morning, put the Escape in park then check your idle. The motor will probably run at a little higher RPM until the engine warms up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
etrailer said:
fotojack said:
etrailer said:
A hanging RPM is normal. You can stab the gas and the RPMs will shoot up and slowly come back down.
OK, I get that. Thanks for the reply. Now for the first part of my question.....what's the normal idle rpm on this 3.0 V6 engine? I'm thinking it should be around 750 rpm. Mine is closer to 900 rpm. Any way to turn down the rpm on these Escapes?
Idle RPM is set in the programming of the ECU. Are you seeing 900 when you first start the Escape in the morning? I imagine things are pretty chilly up there right now. See if it the idle doesn't drop as the engine warms up. Or when you get to work in the morning park, check your idle then. The motor will probably run at a little higher RPM until the engine warms up.
OK, so it's in the ECU. Maybe I can get that reprogrammed. And yes, it's warmed up, and I'm talking about long after I've started it and it's at normal operating temperature. This is garage kept, too, so not outside in the freezing cold. :) I'm not heartless, ya know! ;)
 

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My 02 idles around 700 RPM once warmed up. 900 definately sounds high to me...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm talking about idling in park or neutral, not in drive......completely warmed up. Mine's nearing the 900 mark. robtroma's 700 sounds more like it to me. There MUST be a way to reduce the idle rpm on these things! I'm thinking this has something to do with the poor gas mileage some of us get. There has to be a reason, because it just doesn't make sense that a small vehicle like this uses so much more gas than a 3.8 litre engine in a Ford Windstar!
 

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Yeah, I'd say you have an issue with your idle. My first guess would be the IAC (idle air controller) is dirty, worn or needing replacement. Could be your air flow sensor is needing to be cleaned also. Flashing the Controller module is something much further down the list of things to do.

As for the Windstar getting better mileage. They squat down lower to the road and have a resultantly much better aerodynamics and fuel mileage to match. I'm also thinking that 3.8L didn't put out 200 horsepower like your Escape 3.0L engine does either. More like 150-160 hp isn't it. If I'm wrong, don't flame me please. Just recalling these numbers off the top of my head. Bottom line, it was a lower output engine, with cruising in mind. The Escapes engine is programmed more truck like and is going to be built more towards low end power and torque. That will eat more fuel.
 

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I'll have to double check my idle in park/neutral. The 700 RPM is while in drive...
 

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jonas1022 said:
Yeah, I'd say you have an issue with your idle. My first guess would be the IAC (idle air controller) is dirty, worn or needing replacement. Could be your air flow sensor is needing to be cleaned also. Flashing the Controller module is something much further down the list of things to do.
A fellow Bullitt owner.

It's possible that the IAC isn't closing as far as it should be which is why he is getting the higher idle speed, but you would think he would also be seeing other IAC type symptoms. A good thorough cleaning couldn't hurt though.
 

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A V6 at operating temperature should idle at Neutral within 650 to 700rpm.
If idling at higher revs one or more sensors,ie IAC or oxygen have problems, or the exhaust system is somehow clogged, the intake needs cleaning or the valves are not seating properly and the ECU is compensating.Needless to say that the throttle wire is lubricated and in good condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
SUVord said:
A V6 at operating temperature should idle at Neutral within 650 to 700rpm.
If idling at higher revs one or more sensors,ie IAC or oxygen have problems, or the exhaust system is somehow clogged, the intake needs cleaning or the valves are not seating properly and the ECU is compensating.Needless to say that the throttle wire is lubricated and in good condition.
Thank you, SUVord. At 94,000 klm, or roughly 56,000 miles, I'm going to rule out the clogged exhaust system, the intake is clean, as I cleaned it myself, and yes, the throttle wire is lubricated and in excellent condition. So that leaves me with the IAC, which is easily changed, and the oxygen sensor(s). Thank you all for your input on this matter, as it was driving me nuts! :) I'll let you know how it turns out shortly.
 

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fotojack said:
So that leaves me with the IAC, which is easily changed, and the oxygen sensor(s). Thank you all for your input on this matter, as it was driving me nuts! :) I'll let you know how it turns out shortly.
Most of the time, you don't even have to replace the IAC. A good thorough cleaning with carburetor cleaner will get the IAC back in tip-top shape.
 

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If your IAC is the tubular looking chrome one, you could give it a good whack :shock: with a wrench to see if it loosens it's grip on the throttle and lets the car engine idle down. If it does, you need a new one. If it is different, I don't know. That is my experience and the "test" for a cure. :p
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Update on my high idle: I took the IAC off....very carefully, so as not to disturb the rubber gasket it's seated on.....and gave it a thorough cleaning with carb cleaner. It was medium carboned up, I would say. After cleaning it, and reinstalling, it does seem to be a little better. It actually didn't take as long to drop rpm's after startup. Oh, and while I was cleaning the IAC, I disconnected the battery negative cable for about an hour, so as to reset things. So all in all, the cleaning seems to have fixed the problem for now. I'll know more as the miles get piled on, and I'll report back.
Thank you all for your help, and pointing me in the right direction. :) :thumb:
 
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