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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Hey Tom,

There really was no ridge at all on any cylinder, and everything was in great shape all things considered. I had the heads resurfaced for peace of mind honestly. I might have gotten away with putting them back on, but I was worried about some of the ridges/scratches mentioned previously in this post.

As to the manifold/studs - those are new studs featured in that picture. Most studs came out along with the nuts with really no protest. Once the nuts/studs were off, there wasn't any problem removing either manifold. There was only one stud that would not come out, and the torque spec for the studs and nuts is not very high. Having said that, I took the rear manifold off with the head. Full removal of the rear would be very difficult otherwise. I do not think there would be enough clearance to remove it topside, and any way you take it out would require, at a minimum, removal of the alternator. I've seen a lengthy video of replacement on YouTube, and it looks awful.

I have a couple rod bearings left over; I'll have to take a picture for you. They seemed to be in decent shape. I even measured one set with plastigage, and the clearance measured exactly the same as the brand new set I installed - .002".

The oil pressure sensor is only 17k miles/almost 2 years old. Relatively new, but I'm hoping that is the issue since it is certainly the easiest of all the things that can be wrong. Hoping to test it out tomorrow. I was very meticulous with everything, so I'm not sure what else could be wrong. As mentioned, I measured all my clearances, and everything was as it should have been according to my manual. Maybe I should have replaced the oil pump....

Also for the curious, the all-in cost on the actual engine work (bearings, timing set, gaskets, rod bolts, piston rings, head bolts) was just under $500. I used Sealed Power bearings, Cloyes timing set, Fel Pro gaskets and head bolts, Ford's connecting rod bolts, and Enginetech piston rings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
It turns out I still have all but one bearing. Not sure if it's hiding somewhere. I have a picture of the set and closeups of duos. They are all out of order by the way. There's some scoring on a couple that indicate to me that there might have been some debris in the system at some point somehow. I examined the crankshaft as best I could and did not notice any issues on the journals.













 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
As a brief update, it seems like my oil pressure issue is just the sensor. I don't have a spec for what the pressure is supposed to be at idle, but it is supposed to be 29-45 PSI @ 2000 RPMs. I got it good and warmed up for around 20 minutes and had a reading of just about 50 PSI @ 2000 RPMs. It was around 20 PSI at idle. I'm running 5w20 conventional oil right now for the break in, and will switch over to full synthetic afterwards.
 

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Those bearing shells for the most part look real good. Slight wear of the top layer, but still a lot of original material left.
The old rule of thumb was 10psi per 1k rpms. Getting close to 30psi at idle seems good to me.
There is a youtube on a duratec that was driven 200k miles(taxi?) and then torn down at an auto show some time ago. I watched it and was impressed. The factory rep stated that all parts removed were within spec, and could have been installed on the assembly line. That at over 200k, to me, was incredible. It was then I decided I was not going to get a 4 cylinder model(glad I didn't from hearing of troubles).
The Mazda 2.5l v6 used in 9x Probe / 626 was designed in Japan and articles indicate it must share something with the 3.0, which was designed by Porsche(from what I have read). Both engines seem tough as nails, and have record making durability(life span?).
I have not torn into mine at all so far, at ~150k miles. When I change oil the cam chain still looks as clean as it was when it was installed. It apparently was well maintained before my purchase.
So, how does it run? I don't know your ring manufacturers instructions as far as ring 'break in', but old timers, now including me, say to do about 10 runs of hard, WOT but short of kickdown, acceleration from 30-ish to 60-ish, followed by a coast down back to 30. Drive for a few minutes at lower speed, then repeat 8-10 times.
The WOT, without high rpms, will raise effective cylinder pressure, and force the rings firmly against the cylinder wall. Keeping the rpms in check allows the meetup of ring:cylinder to occur without generating a lot of head. Backing off an coasting down to low speed will create manifold vacuum, and in theory leave or pull some oil up past the control rings, I guess, lubing the cylinder walls, but surely lowering the temp load on the rings/walls.
Does it work? Who knows. The last new vehicle I bought had ~50 miles on it when I took it across country. I would drive at one rate, slow down, drive lower, accelerate, drive faster back and forth, forth and back. I tried to vary the speed every 10 miles, or 10 minutes given speed limits of the time. So far it has ~250 on the clock with little problems.(a Vulcan 3.0)
If you are going to go into your transmission, watch the multiple videos on the 'automatic transmission' channel by Hiram Gutierrez about the CD4E. His recordings are about the best I have seen, and he is not shy about sharing his knowledge and experience. He also gives tips. Based on his channel, I would not fear tearing into one, though I have already had some experience on other models.
tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Honestly, I bet I could have reused most or all of the parts I took out if I really wanted to. Everything is in great condition from what I could tell/what I measured. So far, the engine runs great!

I've read a lot of different theories on break ins, so it's hard to really know what is best. Some say not to run a WOT until the break in period is over, others say to use it to initially break the engine in. My manual called for basically what you mention: 10-12 accelerations of 30 to 50 mph, but it did not specify wide open throttle. The one thing that I see consistently across the board is that the car should not be driven at a constant RPM (i.e. on long stretches of highway) during the break in period, and judging by how much I have seen this, I am thinking this is absolutely the most crucial part of seating new rings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
I replaced the oil pressure sensor and drove the car for around 20 miles last night. Towards the end of the ride, the oil pressure light started to come on again at idle. It's possible that the sensor was defective out of the box. At this point, there aren't many other issues that I can think of that would cause this. I think to be safe, I will throw a T fitting in there, so I can run the gauge and sensor together, that way I can get an idea of what pressure I'm getting under normal operating conditions and see if there's really anything to be concerned about. I did try disconnecting the negative terminal today for around an hour to get a reset. I drove around 10 miles and did not see any light, so maybe I'll take it out for another 20-30 miles before taking off the compressor again. Otherwise everything runs great, except the power steering.

I tried bleeding the power steering, but it's still really not working at idle. When the RPMs increase, it starts to engage. Now, when I took the pump off initially, the valve fell out...I was pretty positive looking online and at the pump design that I put it back together properly, but now I'm not so sure. Although I'm not sure it would work at all if the valve was put back in place backwards. I'll chase it down eventually; the most important part is the engine seems to work! I'll report back here as I fix these issues, so hopefully these posts can help people in the future.
 

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Great work! Yep way deeper than I've ever been on our motor.

Any odd noises when the oil pressure light goes on? When you put the rod bearings in did you make sure to keep the rod side completely dry as in zero lube, oil, or fingerprints? Oil/lube should only be applied to the crank side of the bearing.

Also, what size rod bearing size you with? Standard or oversized!
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
14theRoad said:
Great work! Yep way deeper than I've ever been on our motor.

Any odd noises when the oil pressure light goes on? When you put the rod bearings in did you make sure to keep the rod side completely dry as in zero lube, oil, or fingerprints? Oil/lube should only be applied to the crank side of the bearing.

Also, what size rod bearing size you with? Standard or oversized!
No noises or anything like that at all. And yes with the bearings/rods, I wiped them down with brake clean immediately prior to inserting the bearings and applying assembly lube to the crank facing side. Believe it or not, I used standard bearings, and according to plastigage, all were within acceptable clearances per my manual - .002" on all of them.
 

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jaspras said:
14theRoad said:
Great work! Yep way deeper than I've ever been on our motor.

Any odd noises when the oil pressure light goes on? When you put the rod bearings in did you make sure to keep the rod side completely dry as in zero lube, oil, or fingerprints? Oil/lube should only be applied to the crank side of the bearing.

Also, what size rod bearing size you with? Standard or oversized!
No noises or anything like that at all. And yes with the bearings/rods, I wiped them down with brake clean immediately prior to inserting the bearings and applying assembly lube to the crank facing side. Believe it or not, I used standard bearings, and according to plastigage, all were within acceptable clearances per my manual - .002" on all of them.
The lack of any noise makes me wonder if it's just a switch issue as in, there is nothing wrong with your engine. Only a guage of course will tell you for sure.

Oh I believe it about using standard bearings. :thumb:

I too used the standard size when I did the rod bearings on ours. I checked the rod journals on the crankshaft and found almost zero wear on them, at least not enough to justify upsizing without creating issues. Also, our bearings looked very similar to yours. Since these are fractured rod type connecting rods I skipped the traditional method of installing the rod bearings with plastiguage then removing the end cap again to remove the guage and reinstall the caps a second time.

Fractured rod type connecting rods by design offer a more precise fit, fewer alignment issues, and also tend to offer a more round hole than traditional machine-split/cut connecting rods.

If I were fully rebuilding a motor, or replacing the connecting rods, I would have done the traditional method of plastiguage install followed by normal install.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
So as an update on the power steering, I got the pump back off today. It is a real pain without things disassembled, let me tell you. I had to use a crow foot wrench to get the high pressure line off - 24mm. There are three 10mm mounting bolts that hold the pump to the engine. Two are easily removed; the third is blocked by the high pressure line. You could gain access to this with a stubby wrench no longer than 4" or around the width of your hand, but I wasn't able to do this because the bolt was on a bit too tight. It took me probably around 30-45 minutes to remove the line.

So I think I found my problem. I mentioned before that the valve fell out when I initially disassembled this. I believe I put it back together incorrectly. Problem is, I am not exactly sure how to correctly put this together, as it is not well documented online from what I can see.

Here's a picture of the valve and spring. I reassembled this with the spring in the pump first and then the "pointy" part of the valve after that. Does anyone know how this is to be properly reassembled? I think I just need to flip the valve itself, and I'm good to go. I should also note that in a previous thread, I saw someone with this valve out of his pump, and there was an additional tiny spring. I do not have this. Does anyone know if that spring is necessary or if they were included in some pumps and not others? Here is a link to the post/picture: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1325 ... st16446962

 

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Not that I know... Try fitting the spring around the spool at the opposite end, as shown in the ford-trucks image. Before looking at that pic, I was thinking the spring fits on the large end, and would 'wander around' if fitted to the small end. Small being the thing extended shaft end.
The small spring in the other image could(no idea if it belongs) have fitted to the small diameter shaft end, and would be used to insure the spool did not 'fritter' when was unloaded/off seat. The small would not do much but insure that the spool was held in 'both' directions, and could not flop around, IF it belongs there.
Dunno if it was a belt & suspenders part, or absolutely necessary. If you really want to know, head over to a U-pull site with some wrenches in your pocket, and take one or more apart... Or buy one, and swap. Not necessarily fun, but you would know. I think.
tom

Wow. Went to Ford-Trucks.... The first answer there is one that I posted back in 2014, and I don't remember one word of it. That's a coincidence, I guess.
tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
I absolutely do not remember this smaller spring coming out, but I feel it's small enough that I may not have seen it if it was there. I am doing a through cleaning/search of the area I removed it to see if it turns up.

It is difficult to say whether it is 100% necessary, but from what i can tell, I believe the big spring goes into the pump first, then the fat end of the valve is inserted on top of the spring; the slender end of the valve would go directly into the high pressure line once it is installed. The small spring, if it exists in my case, would likely prevent the valve from bottoming out in the high pressure line.

I called my local Ford and auto parts store, and neither were willing to check their in stock parts to let me know; they just simply said their diagrams didn't indicate it. I guess theoretically, I could always just buy a new pump, and if it turns out I actually have all the necessary springs, throw my old one back on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
I found a similar post here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1602 ... -help.html

This person was having trouble with their original and reman pump. They swapped the valve and big spring between the two, but experienced a failure of both pumps. I'm wondering if the pump didn't work because this person accidentally lost a smaller spring and didn't realize it. It's too bad they didn't update with a final resolution.

I am still going to search the driveway a bit to see if any spring is forthcoming, but I'm also planning on picking up a pump from an auto parts store today to further investigate. If it turns out that there actually is an additional spring, I'll spend some more time looking, and if it's not forthcoming, I'm planning on buying a new Motorcraft pump from Fordpartsgiant - looks like they can be had there for $150...quite an expensive little spring! I'll report back with some pictures and findings in a few days when I have this all resolved in case anyone else runs into this in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
This is probably my final update on this post, but I'll be checking back in to see if there are any questions. Everything is more or less back together, with a relatively minor coolant drip coming from around the water pump. I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge hooked up and so far haven't seen anything lower than 18-20 PSI at idle.

The answer for the springs/valve in this particular pump is that there is only one larger spring inside the pump followed by the larger end of the relief valve - the slender end goes into the high pressure line. Remember this is for a 3.0L with the power steering pump mounted on the side of the engine facing the front of the car. I cannot speak to the models that have this mounted in the middle above the timing cover.

I mentioned before that I used a 24mm crow's foot to remove the high pressure line. I believe, however, that it is 15/16" but either should suffice. I opted to just install the new pump since the old one had nearly 300k on it, and I hadn't cracked it open to have a look at any internal wear. I also found a decent deal on Fordpartsgiant, and although shipping took three weeks over the holidays, it was still worth it vs what the auto parts stores and other online retailers are charging. Anyway, on to 300k! I'll report back if there's anything of note to mention.
 

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Good stuff OP .

Just a side note on the PS pump , i eventually found out that what i thought was a crank seal leak was actually the psp , that plate on the back of it was leaking (4 bolts for memory) , it dribbled down into the valley and then down the front of the timing chain cover right on top/above the crank pulley area .

I had already ordered/bayed a seal and bearing kit as back then it was far cheaper than a complete psp (5 years ago) , but what i noticed when dismantled was that the pressure relief valve that opens on a full steering lock (its supposed to happen) was not aligned fully central to the output (non pressure side) , i fact if i recall the hole was just about blocked off .

Not that it does not work btw it was just a bit of poor engineering i thought at the time , i could have fixed it up but i was in a hurry to get back on the road then .

Excuse my ramblings , your posts about the psp jogged the memory about it , cheers .
 

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Dear Jaspras---great pictures.. I just bought an 05 from my neighbor that is really in great shape....he even had the wheel wells professionalli cut out and re-welded (rust).
my question....when did your top side catalytics get replaced? I was fully warned, and accepted the Escape knowing I would have to so them.
The Escape has 265K.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
Dear Jaspras---great pictures.. I just bought an 05 from my neighbor that is really in great shape....he even had the wheel wells professionalli cut out and re-welded (rust).
my question....when did your top side catalytics get replaced? I was fully warned, and accepted the Escape knowing I would have to so them.
The Escape has 265K.
Sorry I am just seeing this now. If you are asking at which point in the process they were replaced, I put the rear cat into position before I put the head back in, then wrestled with it. The front cat is significantly easier and can be removed without tearing anything else out, I believe. I left the front cat in for the entire job.

The rear cat requires a lot of removal and maneuvering if the head is still in place. There are a couple good youtube videos:

 
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