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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently acquired this car. It has been sitting for some time. It has about 125000 miles.
During start and while car is getting warm, there is a faint whining sound when applying the gas.
Once the car gets to operating temp, the noise is very loud.
When apply gas to enter a highway, or climb hill for example, it is also very loud.
The sound is there with AC on or off.
In park, if I apply the gas, the sound is not as pronounced, but it is detectable.
I took the transmission shop & the news was dire. The fluid is clean but they suspect internal front pump of transmission.
Any chance this is something else? Fuel pump? Water Pump? something else on belt?
Thanks for your opinion.

This is a video with the sound.
Ford 2005 Escape AWD. Loud whining noise during driving.
 

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2020 Ttanium Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
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I recently acquired this car. It has been sitting for some time. It has about 125000 miles.
During start and while car is getting warm, there is a faint whining sound when applying the gas.
Once the car gets to operating temp, the noise is very loud.
When apply gas to enter a highway, or climb hill for example, it is also very loud.
The sound is there with AC on or off.
In park, if I apply the gas, the sound is not as pronounced, but it is detectable.
I took the transmission shop & the news was dire. The fluid is clean but they suspect internal front pump of transmission.
Any chance this is something else? Fuel pump? Water Pump? something else on belt?
Thanks for your opinion.

This is a video with the sound.
Welcome to the city. Kopesetic.

Can't get the video to play, but based on your description I would guess it is possibly related to the exhaust heating up. First thing I would do is inspect your catalytic converter, and make sure that the pipe was not left cut halfway through when someone was interrupted.

Second, check your fluids
I would suggest trying to capture the sound with the hood open. Does this noise stay a whine, and just get louder? Does the noise change, while moving the steering wheel back-and-forth, lock to lock?
Most times an audible whine is from either a power steering pump, or a failing idler-tensioner pulley. Water pump failure usually sounds like rocks in it.
if you can hear it clearly, it will often lead you to the problem. Just don't be wearing any loose clothing that could be hanging down into the engine compartment
 

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The sound almost sounds as if it is coming from the speakers. If so, it could be RF interference. The sound seems linked to engine rpm, varying as the transmission shifts. I'd look at the power steering fluid for condition and level. If burned smelling, would not hurt to siphon from the reservoir or use a turkey baster to remove the burnt fluid and replace with ATF. The pump on the transmission is at the far end from the engine/torque converter, driven directly by a shaft connected to engine power(center of torque converter) by splines on both ends. Pumps mostly make audible noise when the engine is running, while sitting still in N or a driven gear. They generally whine. The sound reminds me of the sound an alternator makes when it is under heavy load. Can you use a voltmeter to check the battery voltage to see if it follows the noise? The voltage should not go much if any above about 14.5 volts with the engine running, and should not generally increase with engine rpms.(as it is regulated)
tom

Added.. What happens to the noise when you increase the engine rpm while parked in P or N? Do you get the noise as when in gear/motion?
tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I have been slowly getting this truck repaired. I had parking brake failure. I also noticed that the EGR valve was partially melted. Even after replacing the EGR value I still have this whine. I don't think it is the transmission any more. I have driven it for ~50 miles & the fluid is still clear & at the same level.

Now I think I have an exhaust leak. I am going to investigate it further today.

Thanks for any more ideas or advice.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was able to squeeze under car to look at exhaust. The cat seems intact. Most joints are rusty but seem normal. There appears to be a heat shield on the first section of exhaust coming from engine that is loose but pipe seems intact.
Anyone see anything alarming here. My next step is to take to muffler shop.
 

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2020 Ttanium Hybrid/1978 F-250 Custom
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I was able to squeeze under car to look at exhaust. The cat seems intact. Most joints are rusty but seem normal. There appears to be a heat shield on the first section of exhaust coming from engine that is loose but pipe seems intact.
Anyone see anything alarming here. My next step is to take to muffler shop.
Looks solid to me. Were you under there with the car running, to see if that localized the sound you are hearing?
Did you read Tom's post? Is your sound coming through the speakers? I have also seen a bad ground make you hear the alternator through the speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I had a car in the past with the alternator sound through speakers; This sound is not that. This sound is loud enough that people in my neighborhood give me dirty looks while driving.
When the car is not in drive, the sound is not as pronounced.
I will get my kids to rev engine while I listen for the sound.
Kevin
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well I suspected an exhaust leak after investigating many options. The sound eventually seemed to decrease. I suspected that the leak is just getting larger.
Getting under car while running there seems to be a leak from this assembly under the car where the joint is help by the bolts.
I don’t know if I have skills to fix this. Any thoughts about how much skill requires to fix this.
Tire Wheel Vehicle Automotive tire Grille
 

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Exhaust leaks do normally quieten as the metal heats up and expands. If it's just leaking exhaust at the connection, have you checked the bolts are tight? Typically flared connections like that don't require a gasket. Have you felt around with the engine running to see if you can feel exhaust gas coming out of it? If it's indeed leaking there I don't see it being a hard fix. Either loose bolts, possibly a crack in the pipe or around the flange, or a failed gasket if there is supposed to be one there.

The noise in your video does not sound like an exhaust leak at all to me. Typically exhaust leaks have a tick tick tick nose associated with where in the exhaust system they are and when exhausted gases pass by the leaking point. Example: if a manifold gasket fails the tick will be in time with the cylinder firing, if a pipe downstream of all collectors fails the tick will be more frequent as exhaust from each cylinder passes and leaks out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
while the car is running I feel air coming out there. Cold at start, then warm. It looks like a previous owner may have tried to weld or attach those bolts. I’m nervous over torque the bolts & making it worse.
I’ll agree that the sound is not traditional exhaust sound. But I have had transmission checked & replaced EGR valve ( which looked melted).
Thanks for the quick response.
 

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If you feel exhaust coming from it then it's deff the leak spot. After it warms up some here at home I'll look at mine and see if I think those bolts are easily replaced. it may be what your looking at are studs or nuts welded on one side of the flange so the bolt or nut can be installed through the other. Factory parts come like that often I'd start soaking with penetrating oil, and letting the engine get to full temp, and continue soaking through heat cycles before trying to remove or tighten them.
 

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Those sure look like a nut & bolt were used on the flanges. You may be able to remove them, spread the two pieces a bit, and clean the surfaces. Look for dents and deformation on the joining surfaces and bend back any if you can. Replace the bolts as you see fit and tighten. To get them to seal, you may have to use a support or lever to move the movable(whichever) so they meet correctly. Most likely they were put back together without any attempt(well maybe) at correcting the meeting of the two. In some cases, use of a 2X4 may be appropriate to whang stuff back so it meets properly. I kinda remember using a jack to lift one portion that was heavy and did not want to move, until it closed the noisy part, and then tightening the fasteners. Been too long.
tom
 

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I saw it asked earlier, but I don't think I saw an answer. Is the noise produced in Park or Neutral? It's rpm based, if I were to start looking at what's making the noise. I'd look at anything belt driven (alternator) and even the PTU if it's strictly producing the noise when moving (just look at the condition of fluid).

PTU's in these vehicles are known to cook bearings, although I haven't heard it whine particularly like that. My guess would've been more on alternator.
 
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