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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone got any bright ideas on how to design a false floor (for subs) that will still allow the dog to walk all over it (i.e. rigid, carpeted)? I can do fiberglass bottoms and have good woodworking skills, complexity not an issue. My concern is simply putting a grill on the subs and throwing the rubberized mat on top might lead to 'flapping'.

Few notes:

- Floor doesn't need to be stock height, can go up 1-4 inches and still give the dog good headroom
- I don't want to lose width or length in the cargo area, so no vertical portions
- Subs considered are about 5.5" to 6.5" total height (either two 10's or 12's)
- Amp will also be back there, but need not be integral to the enclosure
 

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No flapping as long as you give some room to vent for the subs. You can also do the little trick I did on my last build, which is to run 4 6.5" subs and fire them backward.

Here's pics of things you can do:

On top of these grille points, you could use steel grate like that used in a bbq grill. OR aluminum. Over all this you can use solid plywood.




Use a thicker wood than I have here, and you can easily do just this. Maybe smaller vents...


This is my multiple 6.5" sub setup, this would sit about 7" higher than stock, and you can definitely build it so the top acts like a solid raised floor.


My older system had the most strength. Take a look:




And that setup, with slatted plywood, was incredibly strong.

You know the hardest part of doing false floors is getting subs that don't need too much airspace, and ones that aren't too deep to start with. From there, then you must focus on small amps to get the most out of your available space. Out of all the ones I've done (and I'm on system revision 6 in this truck!), that slatted design was the strongest but it also had some angle on the amp rack. For animals, that angle needs to go. So, you could do the same as this slatted design but you need more shallow subs than I had there (they were 5" deep including the top side....too big.)

Bass goes straight through the factory carpet, FYI.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Brother. You've given me a couple of ideas to run with. I like the fact that you've taken a few completely different approaches.

Question: Beyond excursion, how much head-space should I aim for?

p.s. I rarely have the dog in this vehicle, I'd mute the sub when he's in there, but really like the idea of an out-of-sight/flush sub design. Truth be told, I've come to dislike removable boxes ever since mine was ripped off when I was younger. :mad:
 

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For a high-strength setup, you can't go wrong with 2x4s for the frame and MDF sheeting for the lid! Here's what I did. You can also see my threads for more info.







Also has hidden storage compartments FTW!


Still basically stock height!
 

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Donnie said:
Thanks Brother. You've given me a couple of ideas to run with. I like the fact that you've taken a few completely different approaches.

Question: Beyond excursion, how much head-space should I aim for?

p.s. I rarely have the dog in this vehicle, I'd mute the sub when he's in there, but really like the idea of an out-of-sight/flush sub design. Truth be told, I've come to dislike removable boxes ever since mine was ripped off when I was younger. :mad:
Even better than removable is stealth. Thieves won't steal what they cannot tell is there. Keep that floor height stock and they'll never know.

Define head space... you mean the room between the sub and your floor? If that's what you're after, factor excursion is about 14mm for most subs (avg) and then another 3/4" for the ring around the sub, so maybe from the mounting point a 1 1/2" gap.

This setup will work extremely well with shallow subs. Also, if you want to talk about it, I have the subwoofer box out of one of these designs. I'm selling this car off and buying an Xterra, so my fiberglass stuff has to go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The enclosure was fiberglassed today. I measured the volume last night and I've got 2.8 cubic feet. Leaves me with some good options and gives me lots of room for bracing. Fiberglass was absolutely the way to go. The cooler temps here made it a breeze to work with.

I couldn't improve on fouthmeal's layout, as it's really the only way to organize subs and amps in a flat orientation.
 
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