fiberglass box help

Breensy · 2009-09-21

so ive been working on a new fiberglass subwoofer box. it is my first one with no experience and so far it is going pretty well. ive managed to build the box for the 2 12" woofers, did 4-5 layers of fiberglass and 2 layers of bondo. however i find the bondo i am using (red can from part source) is really thick and im finding it really hard to get the smooth finish you see on all fiberglass box's. even after hours of sanding and grating. is there a finer or thiner type of bondo i can use for a "final coat" to get rid of the last pits and odd spots? i picked up "ultimate detail bondo" but im not sure if thats what im looking for.

fourthmeal

· #2 · Sep 21, 2009

For top coat a lot guys use Rage gold, and for a final prep they'll use high build primer.

The Tribute is gone but I'm still here for you guys. Full photo album of all past and current builds of the Tribute on my Shutterfly account http://2008tributepics.shutterfly.com/

I build car audio systems as a hobby and as a side business. Tribute's last configuration - Pioneer F900BT navi head unit running 3.0 software from the X910BT, with Diaftia mods (see avic411.com) - Alpine SPX-17PRO tweeters in door panel, H-Audio Ebony woofers in factory location - 4 x array of Tangband 6.5" subs in slim ported box - Kenwood eXcelon X1R and X4R amps w/ built-in DSP - Phoenix Gold 1/0 wiring - fully deadened and sealed with RAAMmat and Sounddeadenershowdown.com products.

Current vehicle is a 2010 Ford Flex SEL, Dark Ink Blue. MS8 Processor, Exile Audio Xtec 10 x 2 subs in spare tire well, Fountek FR89EX mids left, right, and center, Dayton tweeters, Exodus Neo 6.5" midbass, RAAMmat BXTII and Ensolite deadening

Want to learn how to do car audio right? http://www.bcae1.com the Bible of car audio

Reply

Save

Like

B

Breensy

Discussion Starter · #3 · Sep 22, 2009

awsome, i used the ultimate detailer and it is infact a bit finer and easyer to work with. after two more layers of bondo and sanding for 4 hours it seems to be smoothing out very nicely. also picked up the high build primer hopfully i will get to paint tommorow finally.

Reply

Save

Like

B

Breensy

Discussion Starter · #4 · Sep 23, 2009

Does anyone know if the 'glazing puddy' is used to fill in the final few pits?

Reply

Save

Like

fourthmeal

· #5 · Sep 23, 2009

Breensy said:
Does anyone know if the 'glazing puddy' is used to fill in the final few pits?

I always just use the high-build primer which gets it done for me, but I'm sure a glaze would do it too. Just use very light sandpaper near the end.

The Tribute is gone but I'm still here for you guys. Full photo album of all past and current builds of the Tribute on my Shutterfly account http://2008tributepics.shutterfly.com/

I build car audio systems as a hobby and as a side business. Tribute's last configuration - Pioneer F900BT navi head unit running 3.0 software from the X910BT, with Diaftia mods (see avic411.com) - Alpine SPX-17PRO tweeters in door panel, H-Audio Ebony woofers in factory location - 4 x array of Tangband 6.5" subs in slim ported box - Kenwood eXcelon X1R and X4R amps w/ built-in DSP - Phoenix Gold 1/0 wiring - fully deadened and sealed with RAAMmat and Sounddeadenershowdown.com products.

Current vehicle is a 2010 Ford Flex SEL, Dark Ink Blue. MS8 Processor, Exile Audio Xtec 10 x 2 subs in spare tire well, Fountek FR89EX mids left, right, and center, Dayton tweeters, Exodus Neo 6.5" midbass, RAAMmat BXTII and Ensolite deadening

Want to learn how to do car audio right? http://www.bcae1.com the Bible of car audio

Reply

Save

Like

B

Breensy

Discussion Starter · #6 · Sep 23, 2009

Hmm thanks for the help fourth. So far ive sanded it down till its completely smooth unfortunatly theres still a few deep pits that sanding them isnt working. Tried putting the high build primer on it and it doesnt seem to fill it as much as expected. i Read people use the glazing puddy to fix this ill probably give it a shot.

Reply

Save

Like

Top Contributors this Month